do-everything midlayer

Any recommendations for a do-everything midlayer for summer climbing?  Something breathable, warm, stretchy, comfy, windproof, and mildly decent at shedding water or at least accepting DWR on a tightly woven surface.

 My go-to was an OR ascendant, but since Polartec Alpha Direct is discontinued, all the similar brands like Rab and Mammut don't make them anymore.

bmdhacks wrote:

Any recommendations for a do-everything midlayer for summer climbing?  Something breathable, warm, stretchy, comfy, windproof, and mildly decent at shedding water or at least accepting DWR on a tightly woven surface.

 My go-to was an OR ascendant, but since Polartec Alpha Direct is discontinued, all the similar brands like Rab and Mammut don't make them anymore.

I get full value out of my Arc'teryx Atom LT. It hits on all the above points in harmony. I appreciate the synthetic insulation and a whole host of welcomed features, such as large glove friendly zippers, a helmet compatible hood, those good elastic cuffs, and a hem that sits well under a harness. The biggest downside is the fairly delicate face fabric - but that is to be expected from this type of jacket. 

The Marmot Alpha 60 jacket is very similar to the ascendant.  

Tommy Sicilian wrote:

The Marmot Alpha 60 jacket is very similar to the ascendant.  

Seems discontinued.

I really like my OR Refuge Air. It isn't the warmest when you're standing around, but it holds heat well when you're active and it's incredibly breathable and wicks well. I pair it with a hybrid belay parka, which does the job when I'm stationary. Another upside is it's durability. I've worn mine on some chimney scrambles and it shows no signs of abrasion. 

I agree about the Atom AR - there's a reason every winter climber seems to have one as their midlayer, or something comparable. Mine doesn't shed water but I haven't DWRd it in ages since I rarely use it without a shell also in the pack. On another note, mine has lasted 9 years of backpacking and ice climbing with essentially no wear. YMMV.

Although, to answer your specific query more directly, I tend to like mutipitch rock climbing with a warm puffy and a wind shirt. A houdini or similar packs down tiny and can be nice to wear when you don't want to climb in your t shirt/baselayer (and not sweat) but it's blasting wind. It also wouldn't surprise me if a puffy and houdini weigh less than an atom. For multipitch climbing, I would take a puffy and a wind shirt before I'd take the atom. The atom also doesn't pack into its own pocket, at least not the 2013 version I have.

Mountain Equipment Kinesis, Arcteryx Proton FL and mountainhardwear warm airshell uses 'Octa loft' ... which mimic alpha directs

+1 for the Proton FL

Elijah Benson wrote:

I really like my OR Refuge Air.

Discontinued, but still in stock at some retailers.

I like the Proton FL for higher altitudes (Baker, Rainier, etc.), but it’s a bit too warm for me at lower altitudes during the summer, in the PNW.  

I prefer a 100 weight grid fleece (Delta LT) plus a separate shell for summer use at low elevations.  

I really don’t think you want your mid-layer to be “wind proof”.  IMO, it’s best to have a very breathable mid-layer and a separate wind resistant shell.  

+1 for the Mountain Equipment Kinesis. Sounds similar to the OR Refuge Air in that it isn't the warmest while standing still, but especially if this is for summer it will be plenty warm. Do a few jumping jacks and it'll heat right up. I don't know the OR Ascendant but in looking up some photos/reviews of it, the Kinesis looks pretty similar.

Reviving this, as I've been looking to get a midlayer to wear while climbing. Biggest concern for me is durability. I want something that will hold up to my grovelling, elbow-using, tree-snagging style of climbing. I worry so many of these listed above seem to have a relatively lightweight face fabric. Should I be looking more for a soft shell? 

Patagonia R1 - use it for skiing and climbing. Very durable and always seems to keep me at the right temperature. I have the quarter zip style which works great with a harness. 

An R1 and a nylon rip stop windshirt. Light, packs down small, wind proof, durable.

I don't like fiddling with two layers on climbs, so I'd recommend the Dynafit Free Alpha jacket. Alpha Direct on most of it but stretchy grid fleece on the sides and pits. The outer layer is robust but a bit noisy due to its higher weight nylon. 

Apparently the OR deviator is supposed to be good too, and everyone loves the Arcteryx but I haven't tried it.

If I'm anywhere close to my limit and it's cold or windy, I prefer to climb in a light and durable layer like an R1 techface or Mountain Equipment Arrow, both now discontinued in their pullover versions unfortunately. Bring a light puffy, vest, or windproof jacket for belays. If it's really cold, I'll wear the vest while climbing too. 

Another vote for R1 Techface, or the R1 + windshirt combo

Mountain Equipment Kinesis is the most used piece of kit I have. Just picked up the pants and they are equally awesome.

I was just wearing the pair walking outside for 2 hours while it was 32 degrees F and I was super comfortable 

R1 + houdini is a really nice combo for alpine climbing in summer.  

New this season, wait for sale... 

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/mens-alpine-start-insulated-hoody/?colorid=13634

Alpine start softshell + polartec alpha insulation. Should be more durable than the Proton, Kinesis, etc mentioned above.

I have a Kinesis and it's pretty nice it's not particularly warm though and I think I'd prefer something similar to the nano air for this application.