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How to tape my injured pulley

Original Post
T M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2022 · Points: 0

The injury is weird so I'm not sure how I should proceed. I injured my a5/a3 pulley 8 weeks ago. Initially all the pain was on my last knuckle (the DIP joint on my ring finger). After a few days though that pain was gone entirely and replaced with pain at my a3 pulley. I went to the doctor, he splinted it and told me no climbing for 6 weeks. The a3 injury seems to have healed almost entirely which is what I was most concerned about. I went climbing around 5 days ago and h-taped my finger to protect the a3 pulley injury and it seemed to protect it/no pain. But my DIP joint has now been swollen for the past 4 days and the a5 area seems off and weak. I'm not sure how I should tape this finger because I still want to h-tape to protect the more serious (I think) a3 injury, but that does nothing for the swollen DIP joint. Advice?

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

My hand surgeon had me tape directly over the DIP joint. Just a bunch of wraps over each other. If you’re doing the knuckle to knuckle X taping for the pulley you could probably incorporate it into that. 

Amelia Pretzl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 35

If you are still experiencing swelling and weakness in the DIP, you probably need more rest and rehab first, tbh. Swelling indicates it's not ready to take the load you're asking of it (yet!). Are you currently following a rehab protocol?

Since you are already taping A3 with an H, I would first try taping A5 Ring style. If you need more support, X style. 

Leukotape will give you more support than white tape. 

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,150
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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