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Small Frayed Area On Rope

Original Post
Zach G · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0

So I was TR Soloing a while back and ran into some issues mid climb, long story short the teeth on my micro-traxxion ate through a bit of the rope in one spot. The core is still intact, and I have used it since, but I mainly keep that side of the rope on the bottom of the climb. Is there anyway I can fix it? I have looked online and I mainly see ways to repair frayed ends but the damaged area is in the middle of my rope.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Posting a photo would help. It's likely you don't need to repair that spot, but that depends on the extent of the damage.

Edit: There isn't a repair you can do, other than burning or cutting off some frayed sheath. And that's really just cosmetic.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
FrankPS wrote:

Posting a photo would help. It's likely you don't need to repair that spot, but that depends on the extent of the damage.

Second this - even with a tear in the sheath, a rope can hold a leader fall. As far as "repairing it", pfft.

Zach G · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies, I thought as much but I figured I'd ask those more knowledgeable. I can post or edit a picture in later when I'm off work but as long as it can still hold lead falls I imagine I can solo TR with it. I'll just have to upgrade when I can. 

Jordan Day · · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3

I repair ropes all of the time.  It is a great way to be environmentally friendly and save money.  When repairing an area that is just fuzzy and weak I do a less dense more spread out weave into the sheath.

In this photo the sheath was badly damaged but not the core.  I used green dyneema fishing line and followed the direction of the yarns in the sheath.  In the central area of the repair I didn't run the needle under the yarns except when doubling back.  In the edges of the repair you will see places where my green line weaves in and out of the sheath strands.  I did all parallel lines in one direction first, then all the lines in the other parallel second while weaving the needle in and out through the first initial lines.  The rope above had severe damage, but my repair is smooth enough I don't even notice it when rappelling, and barely do so when belaying.

This repair is only on this side of the rope.  I only go all the way around the rope when doing a less dense pattern.  This is to avoid causing a thick, stiff section in the rope.  Don't pull tightly with the needle.

I don't do repairs if the core is damaged.  If the core is bulging out of a sheath tear that is very challenging to deal with.  Unicore ropes help avoid this.

This dyneema fishing line is my favorite but you can also get great results with the much cheaper 8 or 9 strand line instead of the 16 strand. Ebay is also a good source.  I find .45mm 130lb line is ideal.  The repairs last forever.  In the link they simply specify PE line.  This is short for High Density Polyethylene which has the trade names of Dyneema or Spectra.

It will take you some practice to get repairs as nice as the one above!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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