trad shoes as first pair climbing shoes?

Hello, 

Apologies for another first climbing shoes thread.

I started climbing a month ago, indoor with rope / boulder / circuits. 

I'd say my indoor level is around 5c more or less 

Also I'd say that I'm not very interesting in bouldering per se. I love the mountains and my objective is to be able to get to a point where I can multi-pitch.

Finished the indoor course I'm doing with rope I'm planning to have some lessons outdoor. 

Now, I have been using the rental gym shoes and I'm planning to buy a first pair of shoes. 

My question is, could I buy directly some trad shoes like the Evolv The General or Tc pro or Scarpa Maestro? (assuming they fit well of course)

From what I've gathered, beginner shoes are comfortable, have a stiff sole and are quite flat, which also trad shoes are, right? What would be some good reasons not to buy directly a trad shoe when my focus anyway is not steep bouldering? My idea is getting one of these trad shoes to begin with, then in the future get also something more gym oriented with more downturn, while I would already have a good top rope shoe (and multi-pitch shoe when the time will come).

I just want to avoid to have to buy more shoes...for now I just want to get one shoe which is good and I now I can count on and not having to replace in just a few months. 

But maybe (and most probably?) I am wrong.

Also yeah I understand those trad shoes are more expensive, but if I can get the Helix at 100 euro and the TC pro at 120 euro, knowing that I'd own a shoe that will last me longer and in which I'd climb better, is that not much of a price difference.

Very interested to hear your opinion, thanks a lot!

When I first started, I wish someone had told me to buy a comfortable shoe instead of sizing down 3 sizes like I was climbing 5.16.  I hesitate to recommend expensive shoes like the TC pro or something in that price range- beginners tend to have poor footwork which leads to going through shoes pretty fast, mostly by dragging your toes which creates holes in the tips of the shoe. You don't need an aggressive downturn- shoes won't be your limiting factor on the majority of climbs under 5.11 or even 5.12, especially on indoor climbing routes. 

"From what I've gathered, beginner shoes are comfortable, have a stiff sole and are quite flat, which also trad shoes are, right?" Yes, trad shoes tend to be more comfortable, but there are people sport climbing in TC pros, and others who climb all day trad in Solutions. 

 You don't want to be dealing with toe pain or discomfort as you develop your technique as a beginner. Get something that's cheap, fits well, is relatively stiff, and most importantly: comfortable.

Hey Clericus, I would definitely avoid getting "beginner" shoes as they don't perform as well as non-beginner shoes, in my experience. My first pair of proper climbing shoes (after my beginner pair of Scarpa Origin) was the La Sportiva Katana Lace, and it is a night and day difference in terms of performance. Even climbing moderate sport and trad, I noticed a very significant difference, mostly because of the type of rubber used on performance climbing shoes. The beginner rubber compound is very hard, slippery, and insensitive. I switched back to my old beginner pair for one multi-pitch sport outting when I sent my Katana Laces in for resole, and it was a very unenjoyable experience.

The Katana Lace is still one of my favorite shoes and is a great all-around trad shoe that works great for edging, crack climbing, slab, mildly overhanging.. It shares a lot of similarities to the TC Pro, with a slightly more aggressive (downturn) build. Not trying to sell you on it though as it wasn't in your original list. 

I can't offer any experience comparing the General or Maestro with the TC Pro, but I'm sure any of these options would be a good option as long as they fit your foot well. The Evolv General will definitely have the narrowest heel of the three, and the Scarpa will probably have the widest, with the TC Pro somewhere in between. The fit and comfort of the shoe should be your primary focus.

I have worn the TC Pro extensively and could say many good things about it. I wouldn't worry too much about "outgrowing" these trad-centric shoes as your climbing progresses. They can all handle well even in terrain that is not their primary focus (ie steeper/bouldering/etc). 

If you really wanted to future proof yourself you can go more of the "all-around" route like a Katana Lace or other brand equivalent, but the biggest difference will be going from a beginner pair to a more intermediate (proper) climbing shoe. 

I cannot recommend the Evolv Skyhawks enough. They lasted me many years of indoor climbing and about a year of getting into trad and still have some life left in them. They were my main shoe for everything at a price of around 60$ they wont break the bank. They worked great for me for all around outdoor climbing and crack climbing whilst also being very comfortable for long days. I only have good things to say about them.

Try a pair of tenaya inti's. All around versatility and oh so comfortable.

 Get the cheapest shoes that fits your feet well and are comfortable. You're going to burn through them fast until your footwork gets better, so there's not need to go spend $150-$200 on a pair of climbing shoes that are going to have holes in them in a 2-4 months. 

I’ll second what Bryan just said. Something like a LS tarantula comfortable enough for several pitches will serve you well until you are pushing 5.11. No need to beat up a $180 shoe and you will progress just as fast. Or even pick up a used pair with good rubber for under $50

Agree with all of the above that says to get an "intro" shoe until you progress with your footwork, etc. to not beat up an expensive shoe. However, I will suggest that potentially the "second level" of beginner-oriented shoe might have better rubber and be worth the small difference. Eg something like LS finale which is not much more expensive than the LS tarantulace. However I think jumping straight to something on the level of a TC Pro is not worth it, and you won't necessarily get an equivalently longer lifetime out of it.

I've yet to find a better all-round shoe than the Boreal Ace.  No longer considered a "performance" shoe, its worth remembering that this is the shoe Lynn Hill wore on her first free ascent of the Nose.   Boreal now sells it as an "intermediate" shoe - I guess 5.12/13 is "intermediate" these days.  They last forever (i'm still using a pair that I bought in the 90's - third or fourth sole - hard to keep track because I do my own resoling).  Best part is, these days I can usually find a pair on ebay for $20 or so.   I keep a couple sizes on hand, one fit barefoot for cragging & sport climbing, and one comfortable with socks for long alpine rock routes.   Yes, I've tried more current aggressive shoes -- but I climb better when my feet don't hurt.   For fit - my alpine/ice boots are #45/6 depending on brand, my sport aces are #43, and my alpine aces are #44.

-Haireball

^ They sure look like Vectors in all the photos, IIRC.

“For my first ascent, I wore a pair of Bambas,” she said. The Boreal Bamba was a low-cut shoe that was one of the first climbing-shoe designs to use a velcro closure system. 

“After I had freed the Nose, I wore the Boreal Vectors,”

Moccasins. Whatever brand fits you well, or is easy to try on locally for you, if possible. They're cheaper than a lot of shoes, so it won't be terrible if you burn out the rands with poor footwork. Size them so that your toes touch the end, but aren't bent if you plan on crack climbing. They're super versatile. 

La Sportiva’s TX approach shoes rock climb really well. I tend to favor mine for comfort and not having to carry another pair of shoes until I am climbing on 5.9 or harder.

thanks a lot for all the responses, I'll have a look at all the suggestions

Rob Dillon wrote:

^ They sure look like Vectors in all the photos, IIRC.

“For my first ascent, I wore a pair of Bambas,” she said. The Boreal Bamba was a low-cut shoe that was one of the first climbing-shoe designs to use a velcro closure system. 

“After I had freed the Nose, I wore the Boreal Vectors,”

I stand corrected.  good catch!

Tim Wheatley wrote:

I cannot recommend the Evolv Skyhawks enough. They lasted me many years of indoor climbing and about a year of getting into trad and still have some life left in them. They were my main shoe for everything at a price of around 60$ they wont break the bank. They worked great for me for all around outdoor climbing and crack climbing whilst also being very comfortable for long days. I only have good things to say about them.

how did you size yours compared to street shoe size? the price is attractive. I might order a few sizes and give them a try ( they offer free returns) thanks