Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
2022 Katana Lace Pictures and Impressions
Dan Dan wrote: It sounds like the white version isn't low volume, only softer. Some brands have gone away from dude/dudette models in favor of High Volume/Low Volume. Looks like Sportiva is trying out Stiff/Soft instead. I prefer having more fit options than stiffness options personally. Imperfect fit seems like a more common reason to not buy a pair a shoes than imperfect stiffness, no? |
|
I just tried on a new pair of the old model TC Pro in 44. It fits about the same length wise and toe-box roominess as my new model Katana Lace in 43 (worn twice). |
Dan Dan wrote: I know multiple men who would buy the old women's Katanas for a better fit. |
|
Just yesterday I placed three red C3's on a climb and was chatting with my partner about a mutual friend who, when he heard they were being discontinued, bought something like nine 000 C3's. Years later and there's still not a suitable replacement for these cams. Anyway, based on all this feedback I bought two more pair of discontinued Katanas (and paid $$$ for shipping from Europe). Climbing companies: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. |
Dan Dan wrote: Damn, I missed that option and they are way less than $195 as I paid. None of the other European shops that had them listed United States as a possible shipping destination. |
Webfoot wrote: Have you checked these places for your size? Europe: U.S.: |
|
None of those have them in 43 that I can see, but Oliunid did and I placed an order. If I get a shipping confirmation I'll send back the pair I bought at full price. |
Josh Janes wrote:  (Edit: no shade thrown, good on ya for having c3's) |
|
We love it when someone writes a good review, thanks for the info. I’ve been thinking about these and also run a 44.5 in my bushidos. Saved me the headache of trial and error. |
|
There has been a lot of variation in the new TC Pro sizes. For example, people that bought the new TC Pro when they first came out report them running large. More recent reports are that the sizing is more inline with the old TC pro sizing, possible slightly smaller. Not sure if sportiva adjusted the sizing after complaints? Has anyone else tried the new Katanas and can they confirm if the sizing is similar to what Bryce experienced? Also, major props on the writeup Bryce! |
Major Gumby wrote: Old TC's - 41 (performance). New - 41.5 (about as tight as old performance) Old katanas 41.5 (too much dead space in toe, sold them quickly). New 41 (breaking in nice, toes still curled) |
|
Updated size comparison added to original post. 2022 Version in 42.5 is roughly the same size as my older version in 43.5. Downsize 1 full size from my experience. |
|
Added more comparison pics with a new pair of the old model in 43.5... Seems my re-soled pair of 43.5 is at least a half size smaller than the new pair so maybe the new model and old model are more similar than I thought. |
|
It's crazy how much variance there is across sizes. I asked La Sportiva on IG how the sizes compare and here was their response  |
|
I see lots of talk here about sizing and fit. The fit change might actually be an improvement for me. I've always wanted to be able to use the KLs, but the fit never quite worked for me. Interested to try on the new version to see if the new version works better. What about the performance, though? Assuming you get a correct fit and a correct size for the new KLs, do they perform similarly to the old ones? Did they remain as stiff, or did the stiffness get watered-down (such as what happened to the Boostic)? Talking about the yellow (stiff) version. --- Re: the softer white versions. These seem potentially interesting as a sandstone crack shoe - Indian Creek, Zion, etc. The KL is often lauded for thin jamming due to its thin, sharp toe profile. But I always found a stiff shoe with XS Edge rubber to fall short whenever having to smear or layback on smooth sandstone. A slightly-softer KL with Grip rubber could be a useful niche weapon for desert sandstone. Could be an ideal shoe for a route like Moonlight Buttress, for example. It of course wouldn't perform as well on granite edging, but that's what the stiffer yellow ones are for. |
|
The new KL version is definitely as stiff if not stiffer than the old. |
|
New LK available for $139 + shipping from EpicTV, still cheaper https://shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-shoes/katana-laces-2015?device=desktop&sku=SP30U100999M42.5 |
JCM wrote: +1 for soft and sticky in splitters. Having some edging ability is handy for pitches like the 5.11 traverse on Moonlight and the Nutting pitch. I love my Katakis resoled with Stealth. They jam in red Metolius and smear like champs but also are techy enough to handle granite edging. I even wear them with socks for offwidth pitches on longer routes. For maximum edging, tight Miura Velcro with XS Edge. RIP Katakis. I own four pairs between sizes 42-43.5 and am always on the prowl for more as long as the toes aren't blown (pm me!). |
|
For those curious, the new women's/low volume Katana is very similar to the old women's Kataki that was discontinued. I got them in the same size (41.5). Curious to see how they feel once I climb in them, but they seem very comparable.   |
|
Great reviews! I bought my katana on pro deal and I really regret not sizing them in the store (what store) first. La Sportiva changed their whole sizing format and ruined my ability to blind order at the regular 38 1/2 slipper 39 technical and 39 1/2 all day shoe. I historically would’ve ordered the shoe in size 39. One thing I noticed was that when I first put them on my feet they were dreamy in how comfortable they were. I got on few slab boulders and had some good experiences… Then at the gym, again pretty good at vertical edging. All was looking pretty good except for in the steeps where the lack of downturn became obvious. Then I went to lovers Leap and got some moderate climb and on every pitch my foot skated somewhere along the pitch. I’ve never had that happen. Finally on the last pitch of bears reach going over the short 59 boulder problem my foot skated exactly the wrong moment and I took a triple ledge tumble. Absolutely never done that before on that route. Got back up and did it again without issue but I don’t know. They really don’t like to be smeared on granite dimples and nothingness, there seem to be a lot of material sticking out in front of my toes. The rest of the day I over gripped a little bit until I put on my (new)TC pros. It seems the shoe will need to be downsized, I don’t know by how much. I don’t know what la Sportiva was thinking changing their sizing format, it’s rather unfortunate now because half of their stock is in the old format and I guess their new updated versions are going to be on a totally different format. :-(. I’m not giving up on the shoe, my Sportiva makes excellent shoes. It’s just gonna take me a little while to sell this pair and then find some store at some point and try on other sizes. Interestingly I didn’t notice much of a difference in sizing with the TC Pro between the old and new model. I’m curious what people have experienced along those lines. Maybe mine are just new enough? PS- The Kataki in size 39 for me is amazing….The UK still carries them. A much more powerful but slightly less comfortable shoe. |
