Jacket system for Denali

I am heading up to Denali in May unguided.  I have climbed in the Cascades for 30 years but have never beet to Alaska.  My Cascade kit just wont cut it so below is what I have, mainly from purchases here on MP.com.   Looking for feedback to see if this is warm enough.

Upper Body:

1. OR Astroman sun hoody  (6 oz)    Sun layer
2. Synthetic t-shirt (5 oz)   light base layer
3. Patagonia Cap 4 long-sleeve top  (8.5 oz)    Warm base layer
4. Patagonia R1 hoody  (14 oz)  First line insulation
5. OR light-weight rain shell (Microgravity) (14oz)  Wind protection
6. RAB Microlight Alpine Down Jacket (14 oz)   Second line insulation  
7. Feathered Friends Icefall Jacket.  (precursor to the Khumbu.  34 ounces and super warm)

Other than the t-shirt and sunhoody, I can wear all the layers at one time.

Lower Body:

1. OR light long underwear  (5.5 oz)  Light base layer
2. OR Ferrofi soft shell (12.5 oz)    Light soft shell.  Mininum wind protection but stretchy so the legs fit over my ski boots as gaiters
3. Full Zip rain pants  (11 oz)   Wind protection
4. MH Compressor Pants  (22 oz)   Full warmth.

I changed out a few things and based on feedback, brining my heavy parka.   Like people said, I am either moving and warm or stopped and the heavy parka goes on (unless its warmer out then the Rab goes on.)

Not sure if I need a mid or thermal weight long underwear layer.   

Hi Kevin,

Just out of curiosity, what sleeping bag are you taking? I'll be heading out there hopefully next season. Thanks. 

Levi Blair wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Just out of curiosity, what sleeping bag are you taking? I'll be heading out there hopefully next season. Thanks. 

I bought a used FF Peregrine -20 from a local second-hand gear shop. 

I was there last year.
Your setup looks really good but I doubt on rain shell land rain pants. You can leave rain pants at home 99%, it's very unlikely it will be rainy there, even on lower elevation. If you want to use it as wind protection your softshell pants will also do this. So I brought Beta SL full zip pants and never pulled them out of my pack.
As for jacket do you want it be your wind protection? How does it stand against strong wind? I brought Beta SL which is quite think I was glad I did that. We got in storm near windy corner so I was happy to have such solid jacket. Maybe your will work also, don't know a lot on OR jackets.
As for parka it's hard to say on Arcteryx, take FF instead mine was 38 oz and it was ok. You would definitely want warm parka on summit day.

Georgy Gobozov wrote:

I was there last year.
Your setup looks really good but I doubt on rain shell land rain pants. You can leave rain pants at home 99%, it's very unlikely it will be rainy there, even on lower elevation. If you want to use it as wind protection your softshell pants will also do this. So I brought Beta SL full zip pants and never pulled them out of my pack.
As for jacket do you want it be your wind protection? How does it stand against strong wind? I brought Beta SL which is quite think I was glad I did that. We got in storm near windy corner so I was happy to have such solid jacket. Maybe your will work also, don't know a lot on OR jackets.
As for parka it's hard to say on Arcteryx, take FF instead mine was 38 oz and it was ok. You would definitely want warm parka on summit day.

Thanks.   I switched up the soft shell pants to a much lighter version.  The others were just overbuilt and really hot for the lower half of the mountain.  the hardshell pants provide the wind protection when needed.  Same with the hardshell jacket.  My hardshell fits over my other layers (other than the FF jacket) so it will block the wind well.

kevin R wrote:

Thanks.   I switched up the soft shell pants to a much lighter version.  The others were just overbuilt and really hot for the lower half of the mountain.  the hardshell pants provide the wind protection when needed.  Same with the hardshell jacket.  My hardshell fits over my other layers (other than the FF jacket) so it will block the wind well.

Yeah, I was same opinion on hard shell pants but never pulled them out of my backpack. My softshell pants were on thick side though.

I'm hesitant to start my own thread here as Kevin has got some good feedback...seems like the forum gets flooded around this time of the year as people get ready for Denali. Admittedly, I'm one of them. My trip is slated for May 18th!

Generally feeling pretty dialed, but wouldn't hurt to get some thoughts on my upper body system.

1. Sun-shirt
2. Mountain Hardwear Air Mesh Hoody (Medium)
3. Patagonia Capilene Air Crew (Heavy)
4. Patagonia R1 hoody 
5. Mountain Hardwear Hardshell (might be a bit too bomber)
6. Arcteryx Nuclei FL 
7. TNF Summit Down
8. Mammut Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket

You might notice some duplication. I have some concerns that my Mammut is not a sufficient enough parka without the TNF. Over the next month I'm hoping to confirm my suspicions with a bunch of time in the mountains. The Nuclei would help up the warmth and create a sweat barrier. Its my go-to in the Backcountry. That being said, have an option to take a FF Khumbu Parka. The FF is on hold for my trip so really just a matter of picking the right setup.

Nick U wrote:

I'm hesitant to start my own thread here as Kevin has got some good feedback...seems like the forum gets flooded around this time of the year as people get ready for Denali. Admittedly, I'm one of them. My trip is slated for May 18th!

Generally feeling pretty dialed, but wouldn't hurt to get some thoughts on my upper body system.

1. Sun-shirt
2. Mountain Hardwear Air Mesh Hoody (Medium)
3. Patagonia Capilene Air Crew (Heavy)
4. Patagonia R1 hoody 
5. Mountain Hardwear Hardshell (might be a bit too bomber)
6. Arcteryx Nuclei FL 
7. TNF Summit Down
8. Mammut Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket

You might notice some duplication. I have some concerns that my Mammut is not a sufficient enough parka without the TNF. Over the next month I'm hoping to confirm my suspicions with a bunch of time in the mountains. The Nuclei would help up the warmth and create a sweat barrier. Its my go-to in the Backcountry. That being said, have an option to take a FF Khumbu Parka. The FF is on hold for my trip so really just a matter of picking the right setup.

You do have some duplication.  I have never been to Alaska so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I've been prepping for this trip for a long time.   Your MH Air Mesh Hoody and Capilene Air Crew seem to do the same thing.    You have the R1 as an insulation layer, and a sun hoody for super light, so I'd drop the Capilene.   Wear the sun shirt until you get higher, then switch to the Air Mesh hoody with the R1 over it when needed.

Same for the Nuceli FL and TNF Summit Down.  They look exactly the same.   Can you wear both of those at the same time over your Air Mesh and R1?    I am taking the equivelent of the FF Khumbu just to have a warmest possible layer if needed.    It looks like the Mammut is pretty warm.    If you went Khumbu, drop the Mammut and either the TNF or Nuclei.  If you stick with the Mammut, still drop the Nucei or TNF. 

Disregarding the sun shirt, can you put on all your layers at one time and still be able to move around comfortably?   If no, then drop the duplicates.      What are you using on your lower body?

As a veteran Denali guide, I would suggest that whatever base layers and socks you bring, bring an extra full set. I always liked to leave my grungy set in the cache at 11k, and head up to 14 in freshies.