Canadian Alpine routes in April?

Is April a good month for alpine routes in the rockies generally? Wondering about routes like Andromeda strain or others. I realize that this is condition dependant but I heard this is a low snow year so maybe earlier is better? Any other route suggestions?

April can be a fantastic month for alpine in the Rockies. 

Earl, that will be he best time for Andromeda if not earlier even.  That glaciated terrain is dying.  I have skied a lot of it in the winter, depending how much it snows between now and when you get on it, you might want small lightweight snowshoes to avoid post holing (one good dump can make it a bitch) to get to the base.  When it is pure ice, it is fast and furious ground, but plenty of rock fall starts to appear as well.  Good luck up north.  Cheers

Dow Williams wrote:

Earl, that will be he best time for Andromeda if not earlier even.  That glaciated terrain is dying.  I have skied a lot of it in the winter, depending how much it snows between now and when you get on it, you might want small lightweight snowshoes to avoid post holing (one good dump can make it a bitch) to get to the base.  When it is pure ice, it is fast and furious ground, but plenty of rock fall starts to appear as well.  Good luck up north.  Cheers

Thanks Dow. Do you recommend any similar routes in the area?

I have my Canadian Rockies beta broken down by waterfall ice, rock walls and alpine climbing.  This is the alpine link.

Assuming you are looking strictly for crampon and tool like couloirs, here are a few options.  Earl, in typical April conditions, I almost always used AT skies for alpine approaches. Most require long approaches before you reach the toe of a glacier.

Mt. Robson in Robson Provincial Park, Kain Face.  My wife and I have gone in April before.  You go in on skis for half the gain and the Kain face offers a neat steep snow climb similar to Andromeda.  Back in the day, we would have it all to ourselves that time of year and the rangers would let us use the day use cabin at Berg Lake.  We still took a tent and just set it up on the porch and would strike out from there. Should plan two to three nights.

Stanley Peak, Kootenay National Park.  Has three north face couloirs, the Kahl the safest in April no doubt.  All not as long, but as steep or steeper than Andromeda, same, skiing preferable, but can snowshoe in to the glacier.

A considerable step up, the most difficult and dangerous route mentioned.  Best climbed on a cold day void of sun, Supercouloir on Mt. Deltaform, Banff and Kootenay National Parks.  Must be a well experienced and efficient team to climb this route.  It is working its way out of shape.  Skis preferable as always, but one might get by on snowshoes for the approach of this one. Descent is going to be long either way you take.

President and Vice President, Yoho National Park.  A double summit day.  Road closed in the winter, but usually well tracked with xcountry skis.  I would still prefer AT skis to reach the base of the glacier.  Like most of these routes, will still be way more snow than any ice to climb in April, but a fun hump taking in two opposing ridges to summits from a col.  Most would prefer two days, there is a hut back in there if you don't want to snow camp.

Mt. Joffre, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.  Offers up a short north face.  Easily accessible via skis or snowshoes.  Good wildlife. Will be all snow, not as tall as Andromeda.

Mts. Haddo and Aberdeen, Banff National Park.  Easily accessible by snowshoes or skis (from the Lake Louise parking lot) and a popular summer guided route.  Col with double summit.

Mts. Lefroy, Victoria and Huber, Yoho and Banff National Parks.  Road should be closed, but tracked for xcountry.  There is a tourist ski hut back at the lakes, hell, they might offer paid transport in the winter now.  The hut at the col between Lefroy and Victoria has just been condemned.  Lefroy should be all snow in April.  Descend and then a ridge climb over Victoria and descend the backside to climb Huber.  Huber has a bergschrund crossing similar to Andromeda, then descend the way you came.  A true cirque involving three summits.  One night camp for sure.

Mt. Athabasca, North Face (not North Glacier), Jasper National Park.  Same parking as for Andromeda.  The North Face of Athabasca is more challenging than Andromeda, but not as tall.  Ice screws and pickets in April are needed.  Any later than April, a few wires and/or cams are even needed to escape a short rock step.  But that short crux should be iced up in April.

Mt. Hector, Banff National Park.  Can ski it almost to the top in the winter.  Well crevassed in the summer.  You need coverage and ski equip in April, otherwise the post holing would be endless.  Not a steep couloir, definitely more of a alpine ski.  Day trip, close to the road.

Mount Olympus, NW Couloir, Jasper National Park.  Not as tall as Andromeda, but much more remote with an incredible view of Mt. Clemenceau.  Pure ice in the summer, steep snow climb in April no doubt.  Hut is back there.  Approach is long, shoes or skis.  If you are going to spend the energy doing this, you should stay several nights and do some other objectives in the Fryatt Valley. Great wildlife.

Mount Forbes, NW Face, Banff National Park.  Nice and steep snow climb. Long approach, several nights. River crossing being frozen would be a plus. Great wildlife area.

Good luck Earl.