Unparallel Shoes comparison to Katana?

Hey y'all. If anyone's familiar with UP shoes, I'm wondering which model would best match the Sportiva Katana. I've been loving the Katanas lately, but I want to try UP out to see how I like them. Most of their models look far more aggressive than the Katana, but I haven't tried any of them on.

Any info is appreciated! 

UP Lace is basically the Anasazi Blanco, which is probably the closest you'll get to the Katana. I've also heard the UP Rise Pro edges really well, assuming that's what you're looking for.

Matt Heinen wrote:

Hey y'all. If anyone's familiar with UP shoes, I'm wondering which model would best match the Sportiva Katana. I've been loving the Katanas lately, but I want to try UP out to see how I like them. Most of their models look far more aggressive than the Katana, but I haven't tried any of them on.

Any info is appreciated! 

I actually think the katana's are just as or maybe a tad more aggressive in last than unparallel shoes. 

The closest approximation to a pretty stiff edging shoe with a pronounced downturned toe is probably the Newtro Lace or the NewTro VCS. 

A softer would probably be the Sirius Lace/Sirius Lace LV. 

I have heard good things about the TN Pro/TN Pro LV

I will say, however, when transitioning from La Sportiva to Unparallel, the sizing differences between the two brands are considerable. 

La Sportiva screwed up my idea of what a normal street shoe is cause I started with the OG Testerossas. For example, I'm a size 40 street but honestly the size 35.5 in testerossas were pretty  comfortable for how downsized they were. 

Unparallel tends to be a...

• narrower with minimal stretch meaning the shoe out of box is 90-95% the size it will always be.
  • It'll get a bit comfier as the shoe molds to your foot, but it will not stretch like a La Sportiva unlined leather shoe. 
  • If the shoe is too tight out of box, it might widen and mold width-wise a bit, but it won't stretch length-wise
  • street shoe or 1/2 size down from street (especially for a stiffer shoe) is a good starting point.  
  • Unparallel shoes tend to be harder to get on prior to break in, but once on are very comfortable for me. Once broken in, they aren’t difficult to get on. 
• Higher Volume Versions allow for a bit more downsizing if you're a low-medium width foot, but again, they will not really stretch length-wise
• Power point of the brands seem to be different, but easily something that one can get used to.
• IMO, Unparallel rubber is better than Vibram. 
  • I think the UP rubber tends towards a tad softer (feels tackier to me) than Vibram
    • XS Grip 2 is harder than RS rubber
    • XS Edge is harder than RH rubber
    • I think that's great cause it climbs great and adds a touch of sensitivity. 
  • The first couple climbs might be a little slippey but I think it's just getting used to the new rubber. 

I hope you do give them a shot and definitely worth giving a shot. 

 If there's a climbing shoe demo or a gym that stocks them, I would definitely try on before you buy so you get an idea of sizing. 

It sounds like the Up-Rise Pro/VCS would be the best option for all around trad climbing, being a good jam, edge, and decent smear shoe? 

To me, the most important characteristic of the Katana is its wide toe box. It makes jamming a lot less painful. All of the few UP shoes I’ve tried on were painfully narrow for the length. I would like to know if UP makes shoes that are wide in front.

I love the stickiness of the UP RS rubber, which I’ve been told is the same as So Ill’s Dark Matter. I have been enjoying climbing in the So Ill Momoa Pro, which is a relatively narrow (though high-volume) stiff shoe. I have to get a longer size, so that it’s not painfully narrow. I can’t wait for my Katanas to need a resole, so I can have RS or RH put on. 

George Bracksieck wrote:

To me, the most important characteristic of the Katana is its wide toe box. It makes jamming a lot less painful. All of the few UP shoes I’ve tried on were painfully narrow for the length. I would like to know if UP makes shoes that are wide in front.

I love the stickiness of the UP RS rubber, which I’ve been told is the same as So Ill’s Dark Matter. I have been enjoying climbing in the So Ill Momoa Pro, which is a relatively narrow (though high-volume) stiff shoe. I have to get a longer size, so that it’s not painfully narrow. I can’t wait for my Katanas to need a resole, so I can have RS or RH put on. 

You must be taking about the Katana lace. The Katana is the narrowest shoe in the LS lineup, the lace is much wider. 

R Bridge wrote:

You must be taking about the Katana lace. The Katana is the narrowest shoe in the LS lineup, the lace is much wider. 

I have the lace. I would still like to know if UP and So iLL have shoes that fit like the Katana lace. 

Matt Heinen wrote:

It sounds like the Up-Rise Pro/VCS would be the best option for all around trad climbing, being a good jam, edge, and decent smear shoe? 

IMO the UP Rise Pro can only jams cracks as small as a #1 for anything thinner I go to my Katanas as the UP Rise Pros just can’t jam at all in thin stuff. Maybe the UP Lace is more what your looking for but I’ve never used them.

I think the Newtro is the Unparallel version of the 5.10 Quantum, which was somewhat analagous to the Katana lace. 

Newtro Lace seems a tad softer than Katana lace, and maybe my Katana's are super blown out and old, (toe cap and nearing the end of their third resole), but I don't think they have the same amount asymmetry. I think the newtro is a great all-rounder for like, sportos/gear protected faces.

Katana lace is an ATV. It's like a b+ at just about anything. If I were to have one pair of shoes, it'd be that. But basically, the katana's are always in my bag, and then I'll bring something more specific to the zone I'm in as more a targeted options.