Hiangle Pro Review

Starting off, I'll say the sizing is drastically different than the old school Hiangles that everyone loved. I used to wear a 9.5 for a super tight fit to allow for a break-in period, which ended up a perfect performance fit. I also wore 10's which were basically an "all-day-perfomance" shoe once they were broken in. With the new Pro model, a 10.5 is a snug performance fit that breaks in almost instantly and is comparable to old 9.5's. I have to mention though, they were nearly impossible to get on my first attempt. Pretty weird they were so difficult the first time, without an issue after that. I wouldn't say they will stretch much, because they seem all synthetic and rubber, but getting them on gets significantly easier after the first fit. 

The Pro is a much much softer shoe than the originals. It seems to be what I was ultimately after with the originals, but with no break in/wear down period. Pretty comfortable right away. They definitely aren't like the Adidas "slightly older" style model that came out before the split sole, the ones that literally never broke in, which scared me off of trying the newer split sole non Pro model (so no experience to compare to those). The Pro's toe is stiff enough though for edging, but soft enough to smear on nothingness if on slab or in an overhang. 

The toe box is wider, which i prefer, and the heel is just right for me. With the shoe being tight to get on in general, without too much effort, they feel ultra secure for heel hooking. I have a slightly wider fore foot than most, but my heel is pretty average. No shoe has ever felt loose or tight on my heel. Lucky me! 

The way the black 5.10 Teams were described as ultra soft, without me actually trying them myself, I imagine this shoe is very similar. It is glove like, and very very bendy. The softness adds to the over all comfort, but may not be the best beginner shoe for someone who hasn't developed much strength in their feet. I think the thing I like most about this is the sensation of being able to "pull" with my toes. This adds a lot of security to small holds when I can feel every little detail. 

The rubber is ultra sticky, and smears as good or better than the Genius, which I really love. The Genius is definitely a couple of notches stiffer, for comparison, especially in the toe itself. Even after extensive use of the No Edge Genius, the rolled over inner foot edge on the Pro was a weird idea for me on my first route or two, but I actually really like it. It smeadges great and haven't found an edge that it couldn't handle. I love aggressive soft shoes for near vert slab, and these perform great on that terrain. I wore the Genius for smeary "no feet" routes before the Hiangle Pro, but have switched over since having these. 

Overall, I'm a huge fan, and really have nothing bad to say about them besides that dreaded first attempt to get them on. Adidas may have redeemed themselves slightly with these after the idiots over there killed off my all time favorite shoe, the Quantum. Doubt I will ever find a shoe that can replace those, but at least the Hiangle Pro is a close second. 

Size comparisons

La Sportiva 42 (sporty fit)- Genius, Miura

La Sportiva 42.5 (all day trad fit)- Katana

Five Ten 9.5 (sporty fit)- Quantum, Old School Hiangle

Five Ten 10 (all day trad fit)- Quantum, Old School Hiangle

Five Ten 10 (sporty fit)- Newer Adidas Non Split Sole Brick Hiangles

Five Ten 10.5 (sporty fit)- Hiangle Pro

Evolv 10.5 (sporty fit)- Shaman

Street Shoe/Boots

Nike Running- 10.5

Nike J' (that I actually play in)- 10.5

La Sportiva TRK GTX- 43

La Sportiva TSX GTX- 44

La Sportva Nepal EVO- 44

Columbia Newton Ridge Plus II- 9.5

You should also list your street shoe size, for reference with the size comparisons.

JCM wrote:

You should also list your street shoe size, for reference with the size comparisons.

Thanks. Added.