Mountain Project Logo

Testarossa?

Original Post
Tyler Bergh · · Lander, WY · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 10

Anyone climb with the Testarossa, I live in Lander so lots of dolomite.  I usually wear a Katana in 44.5 (approach shoe is 45) and was curious on the sizing as well.  I generally don't like super tight shoes but want the testy's to perform well.  Thoughts on this shoe?

Will Eginton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

The problem is sizing between approach shoes is not uniform (even within La sportiva). I wear a size 44.5 tx3 that's definitely roomy (while the 44.5 tx2 is perfect, better for true approach slabs/pitches). Street shoes 10.5, running shoes 11.

I actually went down to a 41.5 in the new style testarossa, and spent a lot of time stretching it to my foot. 3x showers, and did an oven bake session (low heat for like 4-5 mins wear with socks for 30 mins, repeat 2x times as to not crack the rubber). They are now perfect for a single pitch.

I'm never gonna do that again, though, and just get a 42. I think considering where you climb (from what I understand of Lander area), and what I know of the shoe, I'd drop down at least a half-size from Katana. All personal preference, but the Testa's are friggin sweet, and edge super super well. You'll want 'em tight to get that precision. but going super super small might not be necessary.

Also, just scooped Newtro Laces from Unparallel in my street shoe size (10.5) for a comfy-aggressive fit. Used for when me footsies are super swollen after long runs. Can still toe in on small shit, but doesn't kill my feet.

Robert T Hjerte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

I climb with old Testerossa’s only on lime stone plus 15.13 (if i feel unsure) they are very precise. For me the Tenaya Masai is perfect up to 5.13 like old pinkies of 5.10. I wear Eu 42.5 for both Tenaya is comfortable. Testerossa is good for one rope length. The new Testerossas seems to be a little less uncomfortable/bigger Eu 42.6. But maybe more narrow since La Sportiva’s product designer likes narrow feet so la sportiva is getting more narrow over time (= painful (for me)). The Tenaya Mastia is strange enough a all day shoe for me. I need to it at least 2.5 sizes down compared to the Masai. So … try before you buy

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Shoe sizing is so whack! My La Sportiva Bushidos are size 39. Also La Sportiva TX2 leather, size 38. My Testarossas are size 36. Used to be 36.5 in the old Testarossas, but the new ones are roomier.

I don’t think I size them TOO small, most of my street shoes are 37, I don’t know why La Sportiva approach shoes don’t fit me in 37.


Haven’t climbed in Lander, but Testarossas are excellent on European limestone, I’ve climbed in them in Greece, Italy, and Spain, all limestone. I’ve been wearing them pretty much on everything overhanging for the past ~8 years. They truly fit me like a glove. And I wouldn’t call them narrow, I would describe them as wide forefoot and smaller/narrower heel.

I can’t directly compare them to Katanas and Muiras, because those don’t fit me well, if I size them to fit my toe box, they have dead space mid foot, and the heel is too big. If I fit the heel, my toes are in agony. The only other La Sportiva shoes that fit me well are Kubos, they are relatively new, and less downturned/less asymmetrical than Testarossas. I think the Kubos I have are size 37, and feel somewhat roomy, but I don’t think I would ever go down to 36 in these, they would be too small. Maybe 36.5, at most. Nice to have Velcro’s for the gym, but I love how precisely I can dial the fit of Testarossas with laces. I have never found a Velcro shoe that gives that feeling of precisely and securely fitting my foot.

At the end of the day, I think you have to try Testarossas, to figure out your size.  

clericus vagans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0
Tyler Bergh wrote:

Anyone climb with the Testarossa, I live in Lander so lots of dolomite.  I usually wear a Katana in 44.5 (approach shoe is 45) and was curious on the sizing as well.  I generally don't like super tight shoes but want the testy's to perform well.  Thoughts on this shoe?

did you buy them in the end? 

If so, how do they compare to the Katana? 

I'm trying to decide between Katana and Testarossa, they both fit well. 

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Lena chita wrote:


Haven’t climbed in Lander, but Testarossas are excellent on European limestone, I’ve climbed in them in Greece, Italy, and Spain, all limestone. I’ve been wearing them pretty much on everything overhanging for the past ~8 years. They truly fit me like a glove. And I wouldn’t call them narrow, I would describe them as wide forefoot and smaller/narrower heel.

I can’t directly compare them to Katanas and Muiras, because those don’t fit me well, if I size them to fit my toe box, they have dead space mid foot, and the heel is too big. If I fit the heel, my toes are in agony. 

Concur with all this, the old Testarossas are one of the few Sportiva shoes that fit my narrow heel/broad forefoot. Their designer moved to Scarpa and to me they feel somewhat like Scapas in Sportiva clothing. Stiff-sh toe and brilliant on small limestone edges and pockets as you say. It's disappointing if the fit of the new version has changed. Possibly of interest, Seigrist is still using the old style when it really matters

Robert T Hjerte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Recently I got the new Testarossa. Comparing I notice that they are bigger size wise then the old ones, both 42.5 EU. I think the difference can be half a size bigger!? Less the feeling of a tight glove. Feel and fit wise they are more like Miura VS 42.5 EU (more down turned then the Miuras and they have of course a more banana shape). But to answer your question: the new red Testarossa does differ from the old model.

The new one is not a bad shoe though, just different, ideal for lime stone routes in the Dolomites. Calanques, etc. 

Jake Tarren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

I think they're handmade and as such the sizes can very widely. I've been climbing in mine for about a year and just last week thought to myself "oh, I guess they're finally _really_ broken in!"

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

La sportiva has very consistent sizing within the brand, it is only a few lasts that vary sizing at all, even between their climbing shoes and approach shoes it's consistent, if I wear a 40 tc pro it would fit like a 40 tx guide. The tx4, 3and 5 just fit larger than usual because of the new last. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Reviews
Post a Reply to "Testarossa?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.