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Best Boot for climbing the Matterhorn in Summer? What about the La Sportiva Aequilibruim?
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I hope to climb the Matterhorn this summer. I am looking for advice on the best choices for boots for this climb. I have some LS Trango Cubes which are nice, but wondering if something with a little more flex would be better , or worse? The LS Aequilibriums are 3 season boots, and I got a new pair. They seem a little softer than the Trango Cubes. A little more flex in the sole also. What type of boot do you folks recommend? Something stiffer for edging and steep snow, or more flexible for more nimble and light movement? Any other boots fit the bill? Thanks! John |
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Matterhorn is non technical, it's similar to mont blanc in the respect that you could go up it in trail running shoes in the right conditions. Go for a comfy boot, don't worry about crampon compatibility as you can get a strap binding. I would add though, think about what else you want to do in the immediate future, is technical alpine stuff in your future? What about mont blanc or other 4000m peaks? Try and pick something that will get you up the coldest hardest objective in the next 2 years but absolutely no more. B3s suck to hike in(easily mitigated by using some lightweight trail running shoes) but 4000m mountaineering even in the summer often calls for an insulated single boot. |
 Mammut Taiss light or La Spo TX guide are my choices depending on snow conditions/time of year |
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JR, I bought the Aequilibrium LT GTX’s specifically for a Bugaboo trip coming up in August. I think they would be awesome for the Matterhorn as well. I’m pairing them w Petzl Irvis Hybrids to shed a bit of weight off the crampons. Feels like you could climb pretty well w the Aequilibriums, but I haven’t gotten them on the stone yet, just snow so far. |
 Summit of Matterhorn summer of 1985 in 100% cotton painters pants and some junk rental boots with strap on crampons. I still have the Wilderness Experience jacket. Guided my friend Cliff Uzan up the route who had zero experience snow and ice climbing after climbing rocks for several weeks in France. Some of the local guides we passed on the way up the route were quite unfriendly because we were on our own. |
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Thanks all for the advice so far! I am a gear slut so I end up having multiple items! I have Baruntses and have climbed above 6000 meters Huayna Potosi in them, Lowa Mt Experts did Rainier in them, LS Trango Cubes, LS TX 4's.........Hope these Aequilibriums will complement my quiver...... |
John R wrote: Sounds like the auqualebriems will be a great addition to your quiver in that case. It would also be worth looking at mammut if they fit your feet, they seem to have the lightest boots in the business these days. |
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Scarpa Ribelle are good light all-mountain boots suitable for ED routes in the Alps. |
Chris Owen wrote: Thanks Chris! I am looking at these ( Scarpa Ribelle HD's) also, and have a pair at home now to try out. They seem a little sturdier and stiffer than the Aequilibriums. The Aequilibriums feel almost like a glorified hiking boot (in fact it says "Trekking" on the box for these boots). Not sure whether to go with flexible and nimble (Aeqilibriums, but less support and less solid), Or stiffer for solid edging and support ( Scarpa Ribelle's, but maybe less nimble?) Thanks again! |
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No worries - I use the Ribelles for Sierra early spring trips (or SoCal winter trips), I like their stiffness in those conditions as it makes kicking steps or using semi-automatic crampons much more manageable. I'm not sure if the conditions have changed much but when I climbed the Hornligrat back in '81 I did a lot of snow above the Solvay Hut. I can't imagine doing that in bendy boots. |
