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Aid soloing

Original Post
Mark Vecchiarelli · · Northeast · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

I know I’m gonna catch flak for this, but what’s some people’s setup for aid rope soloing? Preferred device?

Christopher Chu · · CA and NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

Why would you get flak here on MP?  There's a FB group for Lead Rope Soloing you should check out.  There's discussions on everything from devices to anchoring to rope management.  One user even has a detailed document on his preferred setup.  TLDR though for devices, Silent Partner (if you can afford/find one).  Personally, I use a WC Revo.

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

Aid soloing is "easy" because you can go hands free to tie/untie backup knots, so the device doesn't really matter. Free lead soloing is where device really matters, because you want it to feed nicely.

FWIW all my climbing is solo, and for pure aid I use a GriGri, if I'm free climbing I use an Eddy.

Garth Sundem · · Louisville, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

From fandom.com: "Eddy is often selfish, and mostly works for his own interests, sometimes even neglecting his friends. Because he is frequently overambitious, deceiving, loud, and power-hungry, his peers often socially reject him. Kevin describes him as being 'desperate' on more than one occasion, as Eddy is indeed starved for social acceptance and he is irritated by the fact that his rival Kevin is the most popular kid, whereas he is not even as popular as Plank." Note: I like Eddy.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

Silent Partner is my go to. 

I use the Revo if I'm on a wall and plan to short fix. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0


unmodified GriGri 1, Petzl Triangle Mailion and a 10mm rope.. can actually free climb a little.. don’t forget your anti-backslip Klemheist or whatever.. 

This setup seems to feed a bit better than GriGri 2.. 

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Certainly the most comprehensive treatise on aid soloing ever written is found in HOOKING UP - The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual. 

Message me for a copy. 

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Grigri 2 with a keeper bungee attached to chest harness. Microtraxion attached below to keep a loop out for easy feeding.

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50
Peter Zabrok wrote:

Certainly the most comprehensive treatise on aid soloing ever written is found in HOOKING UP - The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual. 

Message me for a copy. 

You book is killer on the subject, Pete. 

Likewise, Andy Kirkpatrick has a whole book on solo big walling titled Me, Myself, and I

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Have you heard what good ol Andy KP said recently in a podcast about HOOKING UP?  {snicker}

;)

Matt Heinen · · Arizona · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 111

Question for those with experience - When using a GriGri or Revo, are you tying/untying cat knots as you climb, or are you confident enough in the device without knots? I know everyone will have their own risk management standards, I just have yet to solo a wall and I'm curious where more experienced climbers stand here. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

I use a Gri Gri 2 with micro traxion cache loop and backup knots. I find this reasonably good for free climbing. I did a 1000 feet in a day on 5.7 multipitch. 
I haven’t taken a fall yet,  but I know someone that says his Gri Gri didn’t catch until the knot. 

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Always always ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS

tie a fucking backup knot 

Or

YER GONNA DIE. 

There is no other correct answer. 

Why - in this day and age - does this even need to be repeated??

Matt Heinen · · Arizona · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 111

Copy

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252
Peter Zabrok wrote:

Always always ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS

tie a fucking backup knot 

Or

YER GONNA DIE. 

There is no other correct answer. 

Why - in this day and age - does this even need to be repeated??

Yeah what Pete said! Please tie knots people. It’s for your own safety and and the safety of others who may have to rescue you. Close your systems!

Mark Vecchiarelli · · Northeast · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

This is all amazing. 

Brandon Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 3,760

Is there ever room for the words always or never in regards to rock climbing?

I think not.  

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Matt Heinen wrote:

Question for those with experience - When using a GriGri or Revo, are you tying/untying cat knots as you climb, or are you confident enough in the device without knots? I know everyone will have their own risk management standards, I just have yet to solo a wall and I'm curious where more experienced climbers stand here. 

 generally- aid climbers tie in to a bite down the slack end of the rope, clipped to a full strength point like your belay loop. This would protect you in the event of a catastrophic device or Biner failure (cross loaded biner like the guy on Eagles Way) 


seems to be more common with free climbers to pre-tie slip knots at intervals that are pulled out one handed as you hit them.. or forgo backup knots all together  

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Matt Heinen wrote:

Question for those with experience - When using a GriGri or Revo, are you tying/untying cat knots as you climb, or are you confident enough in the device without knots? I know everyone will have their own risk management standards, I just have yet to solo a wall and I'm curious where more experienced climbers stand here. 

You'll need to have a loop of rope that isolated from the weight of the rope hanging on the slack side of the device down to the rope bag at the anchor in order for the rope to feed smoothly as you move. This loop is connected to your harness by a knot. 

Thus, in order for the system to flow smoothly, one has to have a de facto cat knot, whether it's your intent or not. In case you're worried about a cross loaded biner that breaks in a fall (and effectively throws you out of your system), you can link a shorty sling between the biner holding the knot/loops and your belay loop to prevent being thrown out of the system should the biner attached to your device fails.

James D · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 30
Fail Falling wrote:

You'll need to have a loop of rope that isolated from the weight of the rope hanging on the slack side of the device down to the rope bag at the anchor in order for the rope to feed smoothly as you move. This loop is connected to your harness by a knot. 

Thus, in order for the system to flow smoothly, one has to have a de facto cat knot, whether it's your intent or not. In case you're worried about a cross loaded biner that breaks in a fall (and effectively throws you out of your system), you can link a shorty sling between the biner holding the knot/loops and your belay loop to prevent being thrown out of the system should the biner attached to your device fails.

Is this tether assuming you are tying/storing the backup knot biner somewhere other than on your belay loop? a gear loop perhaps? Or just letting it hang?

I use a REVO for aid soloing so far and keep everything on my belay loop and it isn't too bad a cluster. Nest of girth hitched Daisies/fifi above REVO above backup knot biner. 

Agreed the backup knot serves dual purpose as a dead/slack end weight relief and cat knot so I will always use one. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Alex Fletcher wrote:

I use a Gri Gri 2 with micro traxion cache loop and backup knots. I find this reasonably good for free climbing. I did a 1000 feet in a day on 5.7 multipitch.
I haven’t taken a fall yet,  but I know someone that says his Gri Gri didn’t catch until the knot. 

So backup knots south of the micro? What knot? Slack end of rope hanging or in a backpack? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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