How often do you completely rest for a day?

For those of you who take this sport super seriously, climbing boulders v10+, how often do you completely rest for a day and do nothing active? Just a curious question...

I take overall mountaineering super seriously, not just bouldering, but here's my two cents... During training periods (prepping for a trip): maximum days I use climbing muscles is 4 days per week and minimum number of complete "recovery" days is 1 day per week. If I only cared about climbing (no cardio), then the number of recover days would be higher. But it's easy to work out 6 days per week when half of them are just long, easy cardio.

"Training for the New Alpinism" lines up directly with my ambitions. Probably different if you're only interested in bouldering. "The Rock Climber's Training Manual" gives a good foundation for purely climbing pursuits.

every other day at least

you get stronger on your rest days, not on your climbing days

'wer rastet,der rostet'

While I’m not training to climb specifically but more general fitness, I shoot for one day per week.  Usually Sundays because that’s what fits with my schedule:  but if I end up climbing through theweekend I pick a weekday and try really hard not to do strenuous work.  

Climb: 2 or 3 days per week.

Run: 2 or 3 days a week.

Hangboard: 1 day a week.

Rest: 1 day a week.

I'm a recreational climber and runner with a full time job, wife and kids. I lead about (5.9) at the Gunks and run 50 miles in about 12 hours. In the winter I gym climb and cross country ski. Depending on the week there is some flexibility in my training schedule.  Some times responsibility calls, but I try to stick to the schedule as much as possible. 

Hope this helps,

Garrett 

The Weavers wrote:  I lead about (5.9) at the Gunks and run 50 miles in about 12 hours.

it’s not often you find a quoted 50 mile time. Mad respect haha, that’s next level!

Running 50 miles is def at least v11

Don't put too much into someone else's recipe for health. The key is being honest with yourself about how hard you want to push your body. The key ingredient to injury is pushing too hard, so take as much rest as you need, and try not to get over obsessed with having to do more and more. Part of growing is understanding your limits, and your recovery. It also changes regularly, and significantly as you age, so don't put too much into someone else's recipe for health. 

Matthew Jaggers wrote:

Don't put too much into someone else's recipe for health. The key is being honest with yourself about how hard you want to push your body. The key ingredient to injury is pushing too hard, so take as much rest as you need, and try not to get over obsessed with having to do more and more. Part of growing is understanding your limits, and your recovery. It also changes regularly, and significantly as you age, so don't put too much into someone else's recipe for health. 

This. But also, having at least two no-load days per week for your tendons is vital if you're pushing your limits each sesh. If you're romping up easy alpine or just having fun social days at a moderate-for-you grade, not as important. But per Jaggz, you've got to self-assess honestly.

 I don't meet the OP's minimum v-grade criteria, but I figured I would respond anyways because I love to spray about myself and waste everyone's time with long paragraphs and pictures of gotez.

also, mega props to the 50 mile dude. That's some proper fitness right there. I love trail running but it doesn't love me back (knees). I'm training for a significant mountain bike race but Incan't begin to fathom finishing an ultra on foot. Mechanical advantage ftw.