UnParallel UP Rise Pro Review

The UP Rise Pros are amazing shoes. Perhaps not as good as an all rounder as TC Pros but a great addition for crack climbing. One caveat to this review is I only started crack climbing last March so I don't have too much experience there. I realize I may not be totally selling these shoes but I do really like them despite what my words may portray. Of course I probably missed a few things in my review so ask questions about them.

Fit:

In my street shoe I'm an 11.5/12 depending on the brand but generally I'm an 11.5. Now I only own two other pairs of climbing shoes so I don't have a whole lot to compare the UP Rise Pros too. So I have 5.10 Coyotes in a size 12, the fit for them has my feet flat as a pancake but very snug at the same time. The other pair of shoes I have are Katanas in a 45, after they've stretched my toes have a bit curling to them which is tight enough for edges and comfortable enough for thin cracks.

On the UP Rise Pros I initially purchased a size 11.5; however, I had to exchange them for a 12.5 as my toes were way too jammed up in the shoes. Quite the upsize there but now the shoes actually fit me with a slightly tighter fit than my Katanas and I find the shoes to be narrower than them too with some dead space above my foot in the toe box. I can year these shoes for hours with no major discomfort. Also the exchange process was so incredibly tedious that I never want to do it again. Hopefully UnParallel gets better at their customer service over the years.

Rubber:

The RH rubber is y'a know rubber. Not quite as sticky as C4 (which I have noticed on slab climbs but the stiffness of the UP Rise Pros is a factor in that too whereas my Coyotes are quite floppy) nor as hard as XS Edge so a happy in between. The RH rubber sticks well to all types of rock I've climbed on quartzite, quartz monzonite, granite, basalt, Wingate and Corbin sandstone. RH rubber does grab to sandstone better than XS edge IMO but its very marginal so it's not going to make or break your send. I've climbed around 50 pitches with these shoes and the rubber has of course shown some wear but nothing unexpected.

Performance:

The UP Rise Pros edge fine, not exceptional like my Katanas, and I feel this has to do with the slight amount of room above my foot. For a climb that is majority crack with some edging I take the UP Rise Pros. And cracks climbing is where these shoes are phenomenal. My Coyotes are too floppy and my Katanas can become uncomfortable for anything larger than a finger crack. Despite my substantial amount of toe curl, the UP Rise Pros are comfortable and I have never noticed any pain, even on 100ft tall cracks. Having only ever climbed cracks with these shoes I can't say that the rubber on top of the foot is a huge advantage or not compared to say TC Pros, but it must help some amount. Unfortunately due to this rubber patch it's very difficult to jam in the shoes into any cracks smaller than a red #1 C4.

Stink:

These shoes are seriously a biohazard, I haven't used them since mid December and they're still repugnant. My other shoes are no where close to this. They may get a little smelly at times but really no different than a normal shoe. But the UP Rise Pros reek. I'm assuming it's a combo of them having synthetic uppers and the large rubber patch makes any sense of breathability impossible. I've tried about every trick to defunkify them but was to no avail.

I loved the pair I had. They were so killer on edges. Just didn’t fit my heels very good, so had to sell them. But, if you get a good fit, this shoe is effing amazing.

I have a pair, size 10 street shoe and got that for these. the fit is great for me, it's fit for comfort  love these shies in long climbing days where I'm not pushing grades. these things are stiff as hell! 

thanks for sharing your review

I have a pair of these, and while they are good for some cracks, such as OW/squeeze to hands, they are absolutely terrible for thinner cracks. It appears that the toebox is quite a bit larger than TC pros or Katanas, and thus don't fit quite as well into anything smaller than #1s (for me). The top rubber patch is quite nice compared to TC pros which tend to delaminate easily.

Good insight into the Uprise Pro from an UnParalleled rep on the Climb On Equipment youtube

https://youtu.be/xe5wlV4jUpQnull

I just got a pair and I haven't climbed in them, but they are don't inspire confidence. Maybe it's just my foot shape, but here's my take:

It's narrow in the foot box, so even though I got a size big enough where my great toe has no curl, my pinky toe is slightly curled. This makes me think they won't be great for thin cracks. 

The way I see it there is no point in having a crack specific shoe if it isn't great at thin cracks. I can fit most of my shoes into thin hands or larger cracks. Having a shoe that's really comfortable in hand cracks isn't that big of a benefit because those are the easiest to climb. 

There is a lot of dead space. I have the same size shoe in the fiveten grandstone and it's is about the same length, but it hugs the foot much better and has a wider toebox. For me the uprise pro has dead space above the knuckles of my toes, under my arch, and in my heel. Feels very wonky.

I’ve been using mine for a while and agree that they’re definitely wonky and a bit odd. I’ve found that they’re actually a pretty awesome at non-technical edging (I think that’s an oxymoron). They’re the best shoe I’ve ever worn for comfort in #2 and up cracks, but I’d still pick my TCs most times.

I have yet to try them in #1 and thinner cracks, but have been skeptical to try since they’re so so stiff, even the upper seems stiff.

I agree that when sized for thin cracks (almost flat foot) that there is a lot of dead space that makes it seem like your foot would slide around. Honestly, I just need to try and use them in the smaller cracks and see. 

Doctor Drake wrote:

 Honestly, I just need to try and use them in the smaller cracks and see. 

I'd be interested to hear your impressions. I was really excited to try these, because I've been disappointed in the durability of my Grandstones and was hoping these would replace them.

I'm sure the uprise pro would be great in #2 cracks, but I don't think it's worth paying $150 for shoes that work best on moderate to easy cracks. I'm more looking for a shoe for Indian Creek that I can wiggle my toes into 0.5-0.75  sized cracks and is reasonably comfortable on anything bigger. At the moment I guess I'll have to settle for the Grandstones (which are great for my intended uses, but seem to have supper thin rubber in the mid-foot area and required resoling very quickly and then the upper got torn by the resole shop so I'm not excited about buying another pair with this poor show of durability).

JackWeaver wrote:

I'd be interested to hear your impressions. I was really excited to try these, because I've been disappointed in the durability of my Grandstones and was hoping these would replace them.

I'm sure the uprise pro would be great in #2 cracks, but I don't think it's worth paying $150 for shoes that work best on moderate to easy cracks. I'm more looking for a shoe for Indian Creek that I can wiggle my toes into 0.5-0.75  sized cracks and is reasonably comfortable on anything bigger. At the moment I guess I'll have to settle for the Grandstones (which are great for my intended uses, but seem to have supper thin rubber in the mid-foot area and required resoling very quickly and then the upper got torn by the resole shop so I'm not excited about buying another pair with this poor show of durability).

Even though I haven't actually tried them yet, I think they'd be pretty great in fist and potentially OW sizes. Very comfortable and quite burly, though obviously no ankle protection

My go to crack shoe currently is the Up Lace. I think it’s just a fantastic all rounder.