Unparallel Up-rise Pro shoe fit and performance - thoughts?

I searched through and found a few comments here and there about the Unparallel Up-rise Pro. I wonder if there are any more opinions out there about the shoe now.

My own motivation is that I like stiffer shoes for longer routes and long (slow) onsights on vertical limestone and trad terrain. I've really enjoyed the first and second generation 5.10 blancos for vertical climbing, and the old TC pros when I'm climbing cracks, and for medium grade vert climbing. I also like the fit of Katana Lace, though these are a bit softer, and something I'd wear for a different climbing style. ALmost all shoes fit me pretty well, but the slimmer ones usually perform for me the best. 

I sold a hell of a lot of climbing shoes back while working in a climbing shop a few years ago. I noticed that a LOT of people tend to get a good, performance fit in shoes with the slimmer shape of toe box, like the anasazi pink/white type fit. 

Anyway, with that said, I wanna collect opinions on the Up-rise pro. There wasn't a thread just about these shoes, so i figure it could be useful reference. Also, they're a bit niche, so not everyone has access to the them in a shop. So, here goes:

• how does the shape of the toe box compare to the anasazi blanco, and some of those shoes I mentioned above? 
• How slim is it vertically in the toe box? 
• How much tension does the rubber press down on the toe knuckles? (sometimes there is stretchier rubber used over the toes)
• How much does the shoe overall get more comfortable/shaped-out/loose, and how fast?
• How stiff is the shoe when its new.. 25% worn.. 50%.. totally blown out? (compared to some other shoes available)
• How deep or voluminous is the heel-cup?

I saw them in a cubby hole at my gym and I had to pick them up and look at them. Its high volume in the forefoot which isn't what you'd expect for a slip on style shoe.

I can't help you, but wow, this shoe is pretty bizarre. I don't see how wrap around toe-box rubber will help with jamming anything other than maybe a crack in a horizontal roof - yet it's a stiff edging shoe. I thought that kind of feature was mostly for toe hooks/cams. Which you wouldn't want a flat, stiff shoe for anyway. It seems like that rubber would just make it difficult to get your foot into any cracks smaller than hands. 

I'd love to hear from someone who actually uses these.

If they do work as intended then I would be interested since I can't wear the new TC pros... that damn plastic piece (which is on the wrong side anyway) digs right into a nerve on my foot. I still can't believe La Sportiva f'd those up so bad....

I’ve had mine for over a year. I use them mostly as a gym shoe but have been using them more outside for sport climbing recently. I don’t consider these as a contender for trad climbing personally, and don’t get much use out of the rubber on the toe box except for a few toe hooks in the gym here and there. The heels are baggy and if you want them to not be, you need to size aggressively. I have mine in size 47 which is still a lot of toe curl for me, whereas I have size 46 tc pros which are comfy on me. Looks are deceiving— the toe box on the UP is definitely high volume, but at the big toe knuckle it’s only 3mm taller than my tc pro in the same spot. Rubber feels similar to the tc pro as far as stiffness and lifecycle, though they actually feel slightly less sensitive (my tc pros might be much more broken in). Break in is not much of a thing on the UP— the rubber on the toe box does not stretch, whatever they feel like at the beginning is what they will feel like forever outside of a little molding that happens over time but definitely not stretching. I can’t get my feet in to anything less than a #2 camalot crack but with my feet that’s true in any shoe so take this all with a grain of salt.

47 UP vs 46 tc pro, pretty much same dimensions 

Overall, good shoe. I will probably look to the up lace for sport climbing next because I think UP rubber for a hard rubber is really grippy and amazing for friction, whereas before xsedge is broken in it can feel like glass

Just picked up a pair of these and I'm breaking them in now. 

I have a wider forefoot, so agressive asymm makes me cry. Katana laces and old school mocs are my favorite fitting shoes. 

Some notes from the first few weeks of wearing them for general gym use :

- snug forefoot horizontally. Hope it stretches a bit, very similar to the UpMoc in feel. For me, a bit tight. 

- heels felt snug at first, four sessions in and they're getting baggy 

- wear between 43 and 43 1/2 for scarpa and sportiva. Got them at 10 1/2.

- slight toe curl still there. Took them on their first hand crack lap the other day, toes not happy. Will need to stretch out a bit more for true hand and wide crack comfort, no flat toes yet.

- the rubber is super solid. Sticking to tiny gym edges, slopey feet, volumes, and greasy moonboard routes very nicely.

- thick and stiff slip on compared to sensitive shoes I'm used to like the moc and Drago.

- area over the forefoot is a bit baggy for me and the toes feel super wide vertically. Managed to get some friction in 0.5-sized cracks at our gym but wouldn't use it any smaller until they're more broken in. That being said, having all that rubber made hand sized crack feel rock solid. 

I'm currently feeling like I'll use them as a general all around and casual trad shoe. Good and tough enough for laps on most stuff, doesn't seem like they'll shine in any one thing yet. I've only had them for a few weeks though, so we'll see!

I like em for bowderin’ … 

High volume front. Stiff front to back. Thought I’d like em for hard thin trad cracks. I don’t. But I do really like them for vertical/ slab stuff, esp multipitch. 

Just posted a review for them:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/121970511/unparallel-up-rise-pro-review