Owens River Gorge for a new climber?

I was planning on hitting up Owens River Gorge on my way to Tahoe from Joshua Tree on a recommendation. But now a friend is telling me it's likely too hard for me, that the approaches are strenuous and tough, and there might only be one route per crag I'd be able to do making the effort not worth it. 

I lead up to 5.9 right now, would be with a partner who has led up to 5.10. Grades obviously not from ORG, which is clearly sandbagged based on friend's comment above, but they are outdoor grades. 

Thoughts on whether we'd even have a good time there, and if so, where we should go and what our expectations should be (should we only look at 5.8s and below? 5.6s?). 

Thanks!!

Owens is neither sandbagged nor is it a terrible approach. Its definitely steep and might be tiring on the way out, but the rocks on the trail in are built into a staircase which makes it easier to stop and rest if need be. But once you're on the floor of the gorge, nothing is arduous except maybe finding the river crossing to certain walls.

Thanks for your insight, Zachary! That definitely alleviates my fears a bit. Any suggestions on good areas for 5.7-5.10 climbs? Looking at MP, it seems like the lower and central gorge have a ton to offer in this range. 

ORG is not notably sandbagged; it is fairly middle of the road for sport climbing. Grades are less stiff than Smith, but stiffer than Tensleep, for example. Compared to J Tree, ORG grades will feel mellow.

The main Central Gully approach is strenuous. It's not long (in distance), but it's a stairmaster with a lot of vert. Notably you are hiking down into the gorge to access the climbs, so the uphill hike out is at the end of the day. For a fit hiker, it's a bit of a grunt but not a big deal.

 For a less-fit hiker who isn't good at steep uphill, or if you have bad knees that don't like the steep gully, you can use the Lower Gorge approach instead. It is much longer in distance, but is much more gradual and on a paved road. It's a long straightforward stroll, rather than a steep uphill grind. Pick your poison. Both approaches work to get you to the Central Gorge.

My usual climbing partner is a fairly weak hiker and prefers the Lower Gorge road approach, even when going to the Central Gorge. It takes longer but we are less tired at the end of the day.

In terms of what's available: 5.10 in the ORG is stacked and had hundreds of great routes. 5.9 and under is less represented, but still has enough concentrated climbing for several days. If you are leading 5.9 and your partner 5.10, make use of their leading abilities and have them put up a TR for you on some 5.10s.

In terms of where to climb: the main Central Gorge areas are the obvious starting point. Warm Up Wall, China Wall, Banana Belt, etc. This will keep you busy for several days. Expect crowds on the moderate classics at there walls.

North Gorge is nice too and less crowded. Different approach (a different steep gully, though much shorter than the Central Gorge steep gully). Dihedrals is a good wall, and even has some good moderate cracks if you brought trad gear for JTree.

Be aware of sun/shade. It makes a dramatic difference there with the strong desert sun. Which one you seek depends on time of year. Plan accordingly in terms of which wall you visit when.

When are you visiting ORG? This impacts sun/shade suggestions.

Another suggestion: Rimview Cliffs. A different area 30 min from ORG. It's a bit higher elevation and is likely snowed in now. But if you trip is later in the spring it'll be perfect for you. Easy approach, great views, awesome pocketed rock, and a high density of good routes in your grade range. The 5.8s in particular are quite good. It's a modern area in terms of grading and bolting; both are pretty generous. Great fun. Not a huge area but worth a day. Not sure when this spring it would start being accessible in terms of snow. mountainproject.com/area/11…

Andrea Wilhelm wrote:

I was planning on hitting up Owens River Gorge on my way to Tahoe from Joshua Tree on a recommendation. But now a friend is telling me it's likely too hard for me, that the approaches are strenuous and tough, and there might only be one route per crag I'd be able to do making the effort not worth it.

As you may suspect by the other responses, none of that is true.