If anyone has heard of Ben Patrick, the "Knees Over Toes" guy, then you probably know his philosophy of gaining "bulletproof" knees through strength+flexibility. Ive only ever seen him talk about elbows once, and on his recent Rogan Experience episode, he talks about shoulders, elbows, and wrists, and making them bulletproof. Anyone ever dive into his training to dig up some routines for bulletproofing the wrist, elbow, and shoulders for climbing? I'm a fan, and think if he would breakdown his process for these areas, it would greatly benefit the climbing community at large.
I've worked in a lot of his stuff over the last five months or so. The external rotation dumbbell exercise has been a lifesaver for my shoulders, and is probably one of his moves every climber should do. Between that and the large range-of-motion pushups and rows, my shoulders are much more resilient and mobile than they've ever been. The lower body work has been great as well: I'm stepping higher, have more power at extreme knee angles (think of rocking onto the highest foothold you can and standing up with no hands), I can open my hips wider to get closer to the wall, etc. And I don't get as many aches and pains as I used to. I've never paid for his online coaching, but I bought both his books and follow him online, and that's been enough.
I've worked in a lot of his stuff over the last five months or so. The external rotation dumbbell exercise has been a lifesaver for my shoulders, and is probably one of his moves every climber should do. Between that and the large range-of-motion pushups and rows, my shoulders are much more resilient and mobile than they've ever been. The lower body work has been great as well: I'm stepping higher, have more power at extreme knee angles (think of rocking onto the highest foothold you can and standing up with no hands), I can open my hips wider to get closer to the wall, etc. And I don't get as many aches and pains as I used to. I've never paid for his online coaching, but I bought both his books and follow him online, and that's been enough.
Could you post links to the shoulder exercises you mentioned ?? Thanks!