Giga Jul vs Mega Jul

I've read reviews for the gigajul and megajul, but I haven't found anything comparing the two specifically. As far as I can tell, both devices have the same features: assisted braking, double-rope rappel, belaying a second in "guide mode", and both can be operated "backwards" to remove the assisted braking and function like a normal tuber for belaying and rappelling.

But, the Giga is significantly heavier, a bit more expensive, bulkier, and one needs to fiddle with the slider to switch between modes. Have any of you used both devices? Is there any reason to get the Giga instead of the cheaper, lighter Mega?

I have owned both.
Everything the Megajul can do, it does less well than all other devices currently popular. Even the range of ropes that it is setup for is wrong - it terrible with single of >9.5mm and dangerous with <8mm halfs/twins. Avoid, would be my advise.
The Gigajul is better. Most importantly, it lead belays acceptably with singles up to 9.8mm and you can almost use it like an ATC. Because both devices use a carabiner, which wears down fast and will need replacing, you will be better served in the long run with a GriGri and Reverso. Also, because both Juls use a carabiner as a cam, every rope will behave very differently.

Skip the mega unless you're looking for a specialty lightweight device for climbs with long approaches, where you're using 8.5-9.2mm ropes, and where you don't plan to rappel. 

I've never used a Giga, but I use a Mega with their phancy locker in the gym to save wear on my Gri, or in gram-pinching multipitch quests.

With my Beal Zenith 9.5, it locks up pretty well. With a Sterling 9.8, very well. I've learned to feed slack efficiently with it. No real complaints, but switching to the phancy Edelrid locker was a huge upgrade.

Belaying from the anchor is quite laborious. I usually carry a Camp Ovo as a backup and use that instead, or just belay off the Roll-n-Lock (ygd!).

Rappelling in assisted mode is horrendous and pumpy. I always flip it and use a prussik.

I have the MegaJul for the sole purpose of using it with skinny double ropes and it’s worked very well for me. I would agree that rappelling with it sucks though

The Giga is certainly heavier but works better in the different modes with a range of ropes. I wouldn't take it alpine rock climbing (although I have) but its a great tuber for cragging or shorter multipitch. Also, if you wear through a lot of ATCs (i.e. dirty ropes or climb on softer sandstones, etc) it's nice to have the stainless steel wear areas of either device. Comparitively, the Petzl Reverso 4 (and newer version) wear out pretty fast and much faster than the standard BD ATC guide.  To Noel's point, basic round stock carabiners are pretty cheap and a wear item (i.e. the Metolius round stock locker or simple BD Rocklock) if you are doing lots of lowering or raps on any tube device. Save your fancy light weight $30 autolocker for meaningful alpine climbs, not cragging). 

Overall I have routinely used BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso 4, Grivel Master Pro, Madrock Lifeguard, Petzl Grigri1 and Grigri2, Beal Birdie, and the Gigajul. I think the Gigajul has a place among all those others and I mostly use mine for TR solo working routes where I'm setting up fixed lines and rapping the route over and over, and for easier climbs with long rappels off the top to save wear on the lighter aluminum tubers.

Re: rapping, I rarely or never rap with the Gigajul in assisted braking mode. It works fine set up as a normal tube or its even smoother if you set it up clipped to your harness/extension through the guide hole (reverse the orientation of the brake and weighted strands). The BD ATC also raps very smoothly this way and you are less likely to drop the device when taking ropes in and out. If you set it up this way you can orient the rope bearing liner in the device with the ropes over the spine and spread the wear out even more. 

Noel Z wrote:

Because both devices use a carabiner, which wears down fast and will need replacing, you will be better served in the long run with a GriGri and Reverso. Also, because both Juls use a carabiner as a cam, every rope will behave very differently.

This.

A grigri and the lightest rap device. The only downside is that the grigri sucks on wet ropes. But then you have the reverso for that.

These ABDs wear out biners faster than gumbies wear out shoes. Especially I-beam ones.

Or just be comfortable simul rapping, and no reverso needed.

Jeff Santner wrote:

As far as I can tell, both devices have the same features: assisted braking, double-rope rappel, belaying a second in "guide mode", and both can be operated "backwards" to remove the assisted braking and function like a normal tuber for belaying and rappelling

So this isn't quite correct.  The mega can be used "backwards" but: Rappelling, if you need to go back up, you now have to fully escape the device before ascending which can be an extra step for some systems; for belaying, it would be a huge pain in the ass and possibly even dangerous.  I would never recommend belaying with the mega in "backwards" position. The Giga supports what is basically "ATC" mode, completely eliminating the brake assist functionality.  So it can be used in both assist and non-assist while rappelling and belaying, with no drawbacks (other than weight).

I have both.  I like the mega, but if I'm cragging I'd rather have a grigri (lifeguard) and if I'm out doing big stuff the rappel problems are a deal breaker.  So I don't ever use it.  I bought the Giga a few weeks ago with the hopes that it could finally divorce me of my beloved ATC in all situations, including alpine rock.  The extra safety of the assist mode being worth the extra grams.  I've only used it in the gym so far.  I was unimpressed, but that doesn't matter much since I don't use stiff 11mm ropes when actually climbing outside.

Thanks for the advice everyone! It looks like the Giga wins. Maybe I'll get a fancy carabiner with a steel insert to go with it. For context, I already have a grigri, and I need to replace my worn out tuber. I do a lot of rappelling when setting up TRs and cleaning sport routes, so I need a device that can handle two ropes. I want an assisted braking device so I can leave the gri gri at home to save weight (yes I'm a wuss). 

I was hoping the Giga would be The One, however I'm finding that it takes more effort than I would expect to pull up slack for two seconds in Reverso mode with 9-9.5mm ropes. I was hoping for a smoother pull; maybe I'm setting it up wrong. My search for The One continues. The Mega is a fine device for gym and sport use ~9.0 mm single ropes, but wouldn't use it for rappel or bringing up a second.

Jeff Santner wrote:

I want an assisted braking device so I can leave the gri gri at home to save weight (yes I'm a wuss). 

For me, the arm-saving properties of the Gri when topbelaying outweigh the ~50g weight penalty. Belaying the second with anything but a Gigi / Ovo / Munter puts more strain on my lateral epicondyle than I'd like to allow while "resting." I'd rather accept the negligible extra weight and not worry about my tendonitis flaring up.

The tallest and hardest routes that I've climbed, I've brought up a Gri and never once regretted it.  

Of course, my preference is fix and follow instead of belaying the second, but that's another cam of worms.

Edit: someone else can crunch the numbers on WMR's site, but the weight of a Giga plus two lockers has got to be pretty close to a Gri3 and one locker.

The mega to lead belay and Gigi/ovo to belay the second and rap (must have third hand backup). 

The Megajul takes a little more finess, but once you figure it out it works pretty sweet with ropes of the right diameter. Right around 9mm give or take. Happily this tends to be the kinda rope I like to use on most multipitch. It also flares my tendonitis in guide mode unless I set it up relatively high. 

Crotch Robbins wrote:

I was hoping the Giga would be The One, however I'm finding that it takes more effort than I would expect to pull up slack for two seconds in Reverso mode with 9-9.5mm ropes...

If you're guide belaying 2 second climbers each a single rated rope it's always a lot of friction and work with any tube style device. A Kong Gigi (or Camp Ovo) is more than worth the weight to carry in those cases and gives the easiest top belay. 

Linnaeus wrote:

If you're guide belaying 2 second climbers each a single rated rope it's always a lot of friction and work with any tube style device. A Kong Gigi (or Camp Ovo) is more than worth the weight to carry in those cases and gives the easiest top belay. 

Thanks. I will have to add one to the quiver and try it out.