Mountain Project Logo

Twin/Half ropes

Original Post
Jim Carlson · · Moscow, ID · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 274

I have recently discovered that my personal favorite, the Mammut Genesis ropes are discontinued.   That leaves me curious, what are people using that doubles (no pun intended) as both a double and a twin?  I use them mostly as twins, clipping both ropes to each protection point.  What do you like about them?  What do you dislike?  I am going to be purshasing a set before spring hits here in northern Idaho.   Thanks in advance for any advice.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

They are not so much discontinued, but evolved (and renamed)…Are you leery of the triple rated 8.7mm Mammut Alpine Sender for some reason?  

As an aside, I love Mammut, but their website sucks ass now in my opinion.  

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301

Almost all double ropes on the market now are also twins.  If you like mammut ropes look at the 8mm Alpine ropes.

Jim Carlson · · Moscow, ID · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 274

Thanks so much!  I love Mammut so will probably go with the Alpine sender or the 8mm Alpine dry ropes.

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20

 The beal jokers are a nice triple rated rope. But if it’s just doubles your after, then I like the mammuts better.

Jim Carlson · · Moscow, ID · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 274

Thank you.   Mostly twins, but ones that qualify as doubles for parties of 3, and long raps on really obscure trad climbs here in Idaho.

Y Tsim · · DMV · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

I got the mammut 7.5 Alpine sender and love them

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

I like mammut and find edelrid 7.9 to be in the same class. Durable with good handling. Some of the triple rated ropes are getting almost as light. 

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

The Mammut Genesis were/are awesome ropes. I am leery of triple rates ropes because typically they have a lower sheath % which makes them less durable. A couple partners and I did ~16 pitches of climbing this summer with one older Mammut 8.5 half rope and a new triple rated rope (I don't recall which manufacturer or model), the latter of which had significantly more wear by the end of our trip. 

Does Bluewater still make the Excellence double ropes? Those are on par with the older Mammuts. 

Jim Carlson · · Moscow, ID · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 274
Linnaeus wrote:

The Mammut Genesis were/are awesome ropes. I am leery of triple rates ropes because typically they have a lower sheath % which makes them less durable. A couple partners and I did ~16 pitches of climbing this summer with one older Mammut 8.5 half rope and a new triple rated rope (I don't recall which manufacturer or model), the latter of which had significantly more wear by the end of our trip. 

Does Bluewater still make the Excellence double ropes? Those are on par with the older Mammuts. 

Thanks for the heads up!  It looks like the Excellence ropes are still available, although the Bluewater website does not clarify if they are certified as twins as well.  

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

For dual rated twins/ half the sterling photons are the best , at7.8 mm and45% sheath it’s pretty good. For a triple rated rope the edelrid canary or swift protect are great, it just depends on the type of climbing you are doing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Twin/Half ropes"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.