SLC climbing gyms - reviews/recommendations

This thread from 2017 was really helpful. What is the situation like now? Which gyms have the best setting and vibe? Seems like there are some new gyms now, like the Front in Millcreek (South Main?). What's the best gym for training, roped climbing, bouldering, etc.?

The Front!!!! Killer vibes, great routes, auto belay for those times you don’t have a partner. 

I climb at the Front, but occasionally I'll meet up with people at momentum. Here is my take.

Location

The Front's locations are closer to downtown SLC, while the Momentum gyms are located south of the city. The Front's locations aren't terribly far from the train (red line) and I know people who bike as well. The Momentum locations don't really lend themselves to biking or public transit, if that is important. 

Setting/Climbing Walls

Bouldering: The Front has better setting when it comes to bouldering - arguably much better. The also have more space dedicated to bouldering as well as higher and steeper walls.

Roped routes: As far as the setting is concerned, I think it is a bit of wash. Some of it is good, some of it is really lazy/boring. Momentum has steeper walls, a true roof section, and a variety of crack systems. The walls at Momentum are also textured so that you can smear, while the walls at The Front are super slick. The Front, on the other hand, has taller walls and a few autobelays (Momentum does not have autobelays), but no cracks.  

Training

I've never used the training facilities at Momentum, so I can't speak to the quality of their facilities. But both gyms have weights/machine, system walls, hangboards/campus board, and offer classes (e.g. yoga, HITT). The training facilities at both of The Front's locations are good. For Momentum, the Millcreek has a much better training area than their Sandy location. 

Other facilities/amenities

The Momentum gym in Millcreek is a nice facility, but the Sandy location isn't great. By contrast, both of The Front's locations are really nice. Both locations have a really nice gear shop (momentum doesn't sell any gear) as well as a café/bar. The Front's locations also have more of a lounge area with couches and ping pong table. 

Vibe

Momentum is more of a "family friendly" gym. I don't know if they bring in birthday crowds, but you are definitely more likely to bump into young kids. The Front on the other hand mostly caters to people in the 18-35 year range. I believe they have a youth climbing team, but I hardly see them and they don't hog up huge sections of the wall. The Front also hosts a free concert series in their courtyard every week during the summer/fall, with food and beer options.  

Bottom line: If you live south or are really into crack climbing, then Momentum is your gym. Otherwise, I think The Front is probably the better option. 

Jason Hanser wrote:

. The Front on the other hand mostly caters to people in the 18-35 year range. I believe they have a youth climbing team, but I hardly see them and they don't hog up huge sections of the wall. 

Lol, certain times of day it does get swarmed with pad sniffers.

The best one is the one your friends go to.