Drago vs Theory

With both shoes being great ultra soft, synthetic , aggresive bouldering shoes, which is better?

They fit a lot different, Theory is much wider in the toe box and has a more scrunched toe. Drago has more asymmetry. Heel is pretty similar. Theory is probably better on volumes and smears, drago better on smaller chips with it’s more pointed toe.

I love the Drago, didn't like the Theory. The Drago can actually power of small edges and feels more sensitive. The Theory is just kinda soft.

Karl Walters wrote:

I love the Drago, didn't like the Theory. The Drago can actually power of small edges and feels more sensitive. The Theory is just kinda soft.

I remember you going through a bunch of shoes. You found a spot for the dragos in your quiver Karl?

Ya basically I use the Scarpa Instinct VS Women's for like 80% of my climbing and the Drago LV for the other 50%. The new Instinct S also looks pretty sweet. The Drago are a bit too soft for a lot of outdoor climbing I do, but loads better than a lot of my old softer 5.10s and Sportiva.

I have wide-ish low volume asymmetric feet and tiny heels so it was quite hard to find something that had a secure heel and didn't compromise in some other area of the shoe.

Karl Walters wrote:

Ya basically I use the Scarpa Instinct VS Women's for like 80% of my climbing and the Drago LV for the other 50%. The new Instinct S also looks pretty sweet. The Drago are a bit too soft for a lot of outdoor climbing I do, but loads better than a lot of my old softer 5.10s and Sportiva.

I have wide-ish low volume asymmetric feet and tiny heels so it was quite hard to find something that had a secure heel and didn't compromise in some other area of the shoe.

Still sizing the Drago LV in 41.5 with the PAF heel system?

Yes

Karl Walters wrote:

Yes

I wear a street 11.5/12us(44eu ish) and my solutions are 42.5 with a bit of dead space in the heel and mid foot region. Do you think the drago LV in a 42 would work for me? I have super narrow feet with small heels.

Avrahm Webber wrote:

I wear a street 11.5/12us(44eu ish) and my solutions are 42.5 with a bit of dead space in the heel and mid foot region. Do you think the drago LV in a 42 would work for me? I have super narrow feet with small heels.

Personally for me I size up Scarpa over La Sportiva. Id go 43 Drago LV if I were you, 1 full size down from street works well for me. 

Doug Chism wrote:

Personally for me I size up Scarpa over La Sportiva. Id go 43 Drago LV if I were you, 1 full size down from street works well for me. 

yes I’d love to do that BUT I get a prodeal at rei and they don’t carry past 42 on the lv model, I might just go for it, or find a different pair.

Avrahm Webber wrote:

yes I’d love to do that BUT I get a prodeal at rei and they don’t carry past 42 on the lv model, I might just go for it, or find a different pair.

42 in dragos would be reeeeeal tight imo

Genie Genie wrote:

42 in dragos would be reeeeeal tight imo

Got it, might have to go with solution comps or theory.