Corte Madera Approach Update

Has anyone been up to Corte this year/recently and have an update on approach? I know there's info and options posted on MP and in the ACSD Pocket Guide (hike to the top vs hike to the bottom vs 4-wheel vs slog), but considering the soft closure from fires a couple years ago and changing trail conditions, I'm wondering if anyone has recent beta on best approach.

I was out there yesterday. It’s as beautiful as ever. The road down to the trail from the fire lookout is pretty rough. You’ll want a high clearance vehicle if you decide to drive instead of using the hiking trail. I didn’t hike in to the climbing area so can’t speak on that. Sorry. The hiking trail should be fine though. Maybe a little over grown. No fires that I know of recently have burned thru this particular area. There was a fire west of here that burned over by Lawson Peak last summer.

Hope this info helps. 

Has anybody used the route following the series of cairns to the base? I tried a few years ago and ended up on top of a small rock formation with no clear path forward. I would love to hike to the base then top out and walk off the main wall. The rap in works fine but it takes away from some of the fun surprises for people that have never climbed there before.

Joe Brophy wrote:

I was out there yesterday. It’s as beautiful as ever. The road down to the trail from the fire lookout is pretty rough. You’ll want a high clearance vehicle if you decide to drive instead of using the hiking trail. I didn’t hike in to the climbing area so can’t speak on that. Sorry. The hiking trail should be fine though. Maybe a little over grown. No fires that I know of recently have burned thru this particular area. There was a fire west of here that burned over by Lawson Peak last summer.

Hope this info helps. 

Was the gate by the fire lookout open now? Early last summer I wanted to drive down it but it was closed right at that junction. Didn't seem like any of the fire roads going to the climbing trailhead were open. 

Thanks, Joe. Appreciate the info. Looking forward to questing out to the cliffs this week. 

The gate on Los Pinos rd by the fire lookout tower that leads down to Corte Madera climbing area is open. 

Thanks again, Joe. That road is pretty rugged though, correct? IS that the path that needs 4-wheel or high clearance? 

Sweet, thats great to know, thanks Joe. Dion, from what I remember that road is generally pretty chill except a few sections being a little rough so 4x4 or at least AWD is a probably good idea, mainly for on the way out when you'll be going back uphill. 

That road is rough, but I’ve never needed 4WD or especially high clearance. If it’s muddy, I’d say it’s a 4WD road.

Thanks again for the input everyone. We had a wonderful day questing around the mountain this week with no other parties in sight. We found the side, cairn-laden trail at the saddle easily and followed it with some wondering up to Bonus Ledge, then eventually rapped down the gully left/under Captain Cook and then swam through scrub oak to the base of Sunset Streaks (This is likely the same approach AC mentioned above, but we pushed down/through some growth for just a bit before gaining the small notch leading to Bonus Ledge). Really enjoyed the Sunset Streaks line- cruiser and varied and 100% fun. Also explored over on the "Bonus Ledge" and look forward to going back there and the satellite crags (Video and El Nino). Spirits, stoke and fun were off the charts for us- it was a great day exploring this backcountry spot- but hot damn we spent a lot of time bushwhacking through DENSE growth trying to find a path from the base of main wall back over and up to the base of El Nino. Ended the day playing around on some old bolted lines on the back/northeast side of the mountain, pulling on some epoxied flakes and marveling at the old rusty mussy hooks. 

Unless significant trail building is done between El Nino/Video area and Main Wall, climbers should approach just about all routes by staying on the main trail and rapping in. 

Driving- we opted to park at the CM trailhead and hike the extra 45-60 minutes to the OHV cutout, which might be accessible in high clearance. Kevin's approach beta above seems spot on. It was still dark with unknown mud pits, but in the future we'd push it on that road. We didn't encounter any closed gates. 

Great rock quality. Beautiful setting. Legit approach. Perfect weather. Unbeatable crowds. 

After the initial 45-60 minutes hiking (probably could have driven to this spot).

Approaching the small notch up to Bonus Ledge.

Just a tad bit overgrown.

Looking back up to Bonus Ledge after rappelling down to the base.

Following the dike to the top. 

Fun times!

Corte Madera is a beautiful crag, the pine trees are a nice touch. It’s unfortunate that there isn’t an understanding with the USFS as far as trail building and maintenance go, there and elsewhere in the CNF. The standard USFS guidelines for designated trail construction are impractical for climbing access.

The area has the longest climbing history of all of SDC’s big cliffs, and is right next to the Corral Canyon OHV Park with over 100 miles of off-road vehicle trails, and two campgrounds. It would seem reasonable for climbers to have some privileges too.

Off road lobbyists have a lot of $ behind them.

Agreed, Kevin. One of the sticking points of our maiden trip to Corte was what incredible untapped potential this crag still has. With the right focus, support and coordination for a motivated SD climbing group, this area could be much more accessible. If done right, it could be just as approachable as ECM or EP, and has the benefit if higher elevation, cooler temps and areas of the wall not entirely south facing. 

Also worth noting we saw 2 falcons while high on the wall, but we all got along just fine. 

Joe Brophy wrote:

The gate on Los Pinos rd by the fire lookout tower that leads down to Corte Madera climbing area is open. 

when were you out there?  i went two weeks ago and it was closed.  any update would be appreciated.

Ryan G wrote:

when were you out there?  i went two weeks ago and it was closed.  any update would be appreciated.

We didn't encounter any closed gates. 

DionAkers wrote:

We didn't encounter any closed gates. 

Thanks.  You guys hiked in from the CM trailhead or did you drive in Los Pinos Rd where the gates are? They were locked two weeks ago. 

Ryan, I was there on Jan 24th and the gate was open allowing me to ride down to the main parking area for the Corte Madera approach trail. Dirt road was a bit rough and there was standing water in some areas. Probably want a high clearance vehicle to get in & out comfortably. 

Joe Brophy wrote:

Ryan, I was there on Jan 24th and the gate was open allowing me to ride down to the main parking area for the Corte Madera approach trail. Dirt road was a bit rough and there was standing water in some areas. Probably want a high clearance vehicle to get in & out comfortably. 

Many thanks.