Horst's 4-3-2-1 meso- and microcycle design
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I've been reading Eric Horst's Training for Climbing recently, and have just begun the first week of a 10-week 4-3-2-1 periodization. I'm following his sample meso- and microcycles to keep things simple as I ease into training again, but I'm confused about some parts of these sample cycles. Specifically, I wondering why there is no finger/tendon training or core workouts during the first 4-week phase, where the emphasis is on training the aerobic energy pathway via high-volume, submaixmal climbing. I understand that general finger training recruits fast twitch fibers using the anaerobic alactic energy system (which would be out of place during the first 4-week phase according to this protocol), but most people I've either listened to or talked with include hangboard/core sessions during their entire training cycle. So, what do y'all do? Have you completed a 4-3-2-1 before, and what were the results if so? Do you limit specific finger and core workouts to the 3- and 2-week anaerobic periods, or keep them as part of your weekly microcycle throughout your entire mesocycle? My instinct tells me to include at least some additional core/posterior chain exercises in addition to the aerobic and stabilizer/antagonist workouts for this cycle, but instinct doesn't always get results... Cheers! Jonas |
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You can always email Eric Horst. He does respond to questions. That said, I think core is always part of the cycles? If you look here: https://trainingforclimbing.com/training-programs/ The programs all seem to show microcycles involving core and antagonist training. It is a bit confusing, but that is how I read it. I can't speak to the hangboarding. |
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It could be a general fitness ramp-up before training begins. The RCTM has a similar period before fingerboarding starts. |
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It largely depends on previous training experience. If you're new to training, 4 weeks of high volume increases your skill and adjusts your body to consistent climbing specific activity, building a base to support higher intensities and avoid injury. In his books, he agrees intermediate boulders and advanced sport climbers can use a 3-2-1 instead and maintain aerobic endurance with an occasional ARC/high volume day unless you know it's a weakness or want to handle longer training/climbing sessions. Everyone should try and put 4-8 weeks of high volume sometime during the year though, preferably before ramping up your training because unless all you do it limit bouldering lasting less than 10s, the Aerobic system does the majority of the work regardless of the discipline. If you don't like the idea of non-linear periodized training, Steve Betchel strongly supports linear periodization in which you do the same strike workouts on a 1-2 week cycle however it fits your schedule. |
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@tobias Yeah, I think core should be a constant also. I was wondering if there was something more nuanced or subtle that I was missing, but perhaps I was just overthinking it :) @Brendan That was my feeling too. I actually do enjoy the high-volume workouts, I just wonder about the effectiveness of only training finger/tendon strength for half of a mesocycle when it's such an integral part of climbing, especially because my limited understanding of tendons/connective tissues is that the training process is slower and long-term loading is the key. @Cody
I thought I read that the 3-2-1 was mostly reserved for boulderers, but if what you say is true (it would make sense), then that would be great. I already have a pretty good base aerobic fitness from a packed fall and early winter season, so maybe I'll just halve the aerobic cycle. Your point about high-volume, annual periods is well take though. Maybe that's how I'll stay psyched this summer when it's 90 degrees, 90% humidity, and the quartzite feels like glass at Devil's Lake! Thanks for all the input fellas, can't wait to crush my spicy 5.6 mega proj this spring ;) |