MH Nilas

What are the limits of this jacket?

Nilas = Way overpriced and under-filled. If you need a down belay jacket, there are better options.

$550 for 215 grams of 800-fill down is a rip-off.  The Nilas used to be filled with 850-fill, but still, $550 is way too much for this caliber of a jacket.

For your target areas/climates, I'd strongly consider Patagonia's Grade VII, Montane's Alpine 850, Arc'teryx Alpha Parka, TNF L6 Cloud Down Parka, or possibly, the Feathered Friends Khumbu Parka.  You can also have a custom jacket sewn by Nunatak or GooseFeet, but their lead-times are 12+ weeks at this point, likely longer. Also, prepare to take out a mortgage for a custom sewn jacket.

I just bought the Eddie Bauer Downclime Alpine Parka and I’m very impressed with it. Runs a little large but is much nicer than the MHW Phantom Parka and costs WAY less when you can add a discount code (usually a handful of times per year). On sale for $344 right now

AlpineIce wrote:

Nilas = Way overpriced and under-filled. If you need a down belay jacket, there are better options.

$550 for 215 grams of 800-fill down is a rip-off.  The Nilas used to be filled with 850-fill, but still, $550 is way too much for this caliber of a jacket.

For your target areas/climates, I'd strongly consider Patagonia's Grade VII, Montane's Alpine 850, Arc'teryx Alpha Parka, TNF L6 Cloud Down Parka, or possibly, the Feathered Friends Khumbu Parka.  You can also have a custom jacket sewn by Nunatak or GooseFeet, but their lead-times are 12+ weeks at this point, likely longer. Also, prepare to take out a mortgage for a custom sewn jacket.

I got a bit of a discount

Aaron G wrote:

I just bought the Eddie Bauer Downclime Alpine Parka and I’m very impressed with it. Runs a little large but is much nicer than the MHW Phantom Parka and costs WAY less when you can add a discount code (usually a handful of times per year). On sale for $344 right now

That looks like an improvement over EB's last attempt. At least there's a 2 way zip. 

Got any specs? Total weight? Down fill weight? Is the fabric coated or breathable? Where are the synthetic panels? EB always does such a bad job at listing the basics. 

What do you like about it over the Phantom? I think the Phantom is the best bargain in sub-expedition grade down belay jackets currently, but I don't know much about this EB model. 

jdejace wrote:

That looks like an improvement over EB's last attempt. At least there's a 2 way zip. 

Got any specs? Total weight? Down fill weight? Is the fabric coated or breathable? Where are the synthetic panels? EB always does such a bad job at listing the basics. 

What do you like about it over the Phantom? I think the Phantom is the best bargain in sub-expedition grade down belay jackets currently, but I don't know much about this EB model. 

Right!? EB doesn’t do the best job at any of those and all I can say is that it is dwr coated and definitely heavier denier than the Phantom. More fill then the Phantom, longer, softer interior material and heavier. No synthetic panels. Side by side I felt that the EB model was warmer and had more down fill. I got it for $250 so it was a no brainer bargain. I would for sure score this higher than the Phantom because of its ability to be more of an expedition style jacket. The video on the product page really sold me. 

Aaron G wrote:

Right!? EB doesn’t do the best job at any of those and all I can say is that it is dwr coated and definitely heavier denier than the Phantom. More fill then the Phantom, longer, softer interior material and heavier. No synthetic panels. Side by side I felt that the EB model was warmer and had more down fill. I got it for $250 so it was a no brainer bargain. I would for sure score this higher than the Phantom because of its ability to be more of an expedition style jacket. The video on the product page really sold me. 

What is the distinction between the downclim and peak XV?

Lion Forest wrote:

What is the distinction between the downclim and peak XV?

From what I understand, the Downclime is more climber/alpinist focused. Not waterproof and is lighter than the Peak XV. 

Peak XV didn’t have 2 way zippers or as many pockets, I believe. I’ve got a downclime waiting for me when I get home this weekend, I’m planning on taking it up Denali this spring. 

Lion Forest wrote:

I bought mine at a discount ($315) during the great online gear sales of 2020.

Do you know the weight? 

akafaultline wrote:

Do you know the weight? 

I do not

AlpineIce wrote:

$550 for 215 grams of 800-fill down is a rip-off.

I'd strongly consider Patagonia's Grade VII...Arc'teryx Alpha Parka

Hm.

Nilas: $550/215g = $2.56/g

Grade VII: $900/330g = $2.73/g (Grade VII is 800 fill down, same as the Nilas)

Alpha: $1000/280g = $3.57/g (not exactly apples-to-apples because it has 850 fill and a bit of synthetic.  Even if you're generous, though, it's still more expensive)

Seems difficult to justify calling the Nilas a "rip off" when it is the lowest cost per amount of fill of all 3 of these?

Kyle Tarry wrote:

Hm.

Nilas: $550/215g = $2.56/g

Grade VII: $900/330g = $2.73/g (Grade VII is 800 fill down, exact same as the Nilas)

Alpha: $1000/280g = $3.57/g (this one isn't exactly apples-to-apples because it has 850 fill and a bit of synthetic.  Even if you're generous, though, it's still more expensive)

Seems difficult to justify calling the Nilas a "rip off" when it is the lowest cost per amount of fill of all 3 of these?

Guess I was lucky to buy the Nilas version with 850 fill.

I used the Nilas on Denali, many winter 13er/14ers and backcountry camping in CO and a fair bit of really cold ice climbing belaying in MN. I bought it in 2013. Not sure which version that is. Plenty warm for me on all of those trips. Still going strong. Just wore it on trips to CO in Nov and Dec (14er/13ers)

The neolite endurance is $200 cheaper (assuming full price), 12 oz lighter but with the same down fill weight compared to the Nilas. Has box baffles, dual zip and drop pockets. I love mine.

https://cumulus.equipment/us_en/men-down-jacket-neolite-endurance.html

As someone who owns the MH nilas and bought orkin exchange for the EB peak XV I feel that you can be assured it will keep you nice and toasty warm down to -15° or below as that was the feeling temp with wind chill this past weekend in the whites ice climbing.

I got mine for 275 on the outlet MH site and trade it in from what I had got the EB peak XV for only 200 at the store front. The peak XV doesn’t stuff down at all, down was coming out the hood cinch holes and it was pretty darn heavy. I’d feel most likely warmer and the outer lining more durable than the Nilas but if you needed to belay or pack it at all you’d be screwed.

I live the nilas and plan to take it with me when i hit Denali, Alberta, South America and more trips to the frozen NE weather in the future and have no doubt itll keep me as warm as needed. Not sure about winter summits above 18k feet or even Himalayan peaks but for most of the rest you will be happy with the purchase.