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Best synthetic Belay Parka

Original Post
Kater Klaus · · Dschibuti (Stadt) · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

I bet this was discussed before:

Does anyone has experience with the following two Parka Options:

-the new 2021 DAS Parka

-the new Mountain Equipement Citadel Jacket

It would be a big help

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Arc Nuclei SV

Kater Klaus · · Dschibuti (Stadt) · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0
jdejace wrote:

Arc Nuclei SV

can you compare the warmth at all?

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I don't think you're going to get a straight answer unless somebody happens to have brought all 3 out on the same day, and what are the odds? 

I wouldn't agonize over it, they're all similar weight synthetic insulation with a lot of fancy branding. 

The ME is heaviest. 

The 'gooch has a coated shell fabric you don't need on a synthetic jacket and won't help dry your stuff inside. Also no lower button snap.

The Arc is the cheapest, has a simple breathable shell and continuous insulation that will likely last longer. All the necessary features.

You can contact Raf if you want, he's reviewed both. If he brought them out and there's a huge difference in warmth I'd be surprised. 

https://www.thealpinestart.com/2021/11/18/arcteryx-nuclei-sv-review-vs-dually/

https://www.thealpinestart.com/2021/05/01/review-the-new-patagonia-das-parka/

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Kater Klaus wrote:

I bet this was discussed before:

Does anyone has experience with the following two Parka Options:

-the new 2021 DAS Parka

-the new Mountain Equipement Citadel Jacket

It would be a big help

I have the citadel and am quite happy with it. I've had mixed experiences with synthetic in the past and normally prefer down but the jacket has remained very warm. All ME jackets I've had were impeccable quality.

Andrew Reed · · Cañon City, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 56

The OR Perch is pretty sweet….

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,284
jdejace wrote:

Arc Nuclei SV

Yup.  Really stoked with mine this season. One of the better synthetic puffy so have owned. 

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Really like my citadel but too many pockets… 

Jon Browher · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 370

I have the Nuclei SV as well and it's ideal. Remarkably packable for a synthetic and has all the features you need, none you don't. Highly recommend.  Low-priced for Arc'teryx IMO. 

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Pino Pepino wrote:

I have the citadel and am quite happy with it. I've had mixed experiences with synthetic in the past and normally prefer down but the jacket has remained very warm. All ME jackets I've had were impeccable quality.

Forgot to say, the hood and neck section is very good and shelters well from wind. I also have a longer torso on which some jackets are a bit short and can be drafty. The citadel is a bit longer, especially in the back and shelters your behind and kidneys. 

The many pockets thing is true. On one of the pockets the zipper isn't always smooth and sometimes gets stuck in the protective lining, but I rarely use that one.

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 222

I have the previous iteration of the Citadel and have been very happy with it. Four pockets on the chest is a little much but that's just a small complaint. I have four jackets from ME and have been impressed by the quality and fit of each one. 

I don't own the Nuclei SV but the specs look great.  

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

If you can find an Arcteryx Dually around (used or old stock) it is probably the best synthetic belay parka ever made.  

Really warm, and pretty much impervious to water.   Perfect design.  

Failing that, I've used the OR Perch and can say it's a very good belay parka.  

Here is a technical review of the Dually:

http://www.astramael.com/12

It's a long review, but this particular passage tells you one of the important qualities of the Dually.  (my experience has been the same.)

"I have worn the Dually over a fleece, in a continuous downpour, for six hours straight. Water never got through, it's practically a shell. In that time it still took on almost no water, and dried out fully in about 30 minutes despite the humidity and cold. I've put it on over a soaked shell, then packed it away wet, and it didn't care. The DWR is robust, but not necessary for the jacket to reject water. The Dually is the most comprehensive answer to ugly damp cold that I have ever encountered."

Jack Yip · · San Jose, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 155

2nd/3rd on the Arc Nuclei SV, it’s about as warm as my Patagonia Grade VII (down), which is comparable with and usually considered warmer than any of the best down parkas out there.

Will WB · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 270

I also have the Citadel and have had a great experience with it. I don't use two of the chest pockets for anything, really, except to keep the stuff sack inside so I don't lose it. It's held up for a few years now and besides being dirty around the cuffs it seems basically as it was when I got it. I like the scrunchy-ness in the back that keeps it from being baggy if you don't have a pack on or something like that. It seems to slide on over any material of interior layers well, and the zippers are great. Using it in the Northeast for a couple ice seasons, I never felt like I was missing anything from the jacket. It holds up well in a rock environment too, which is where I use it most now. As the others have said, Mountain Equipment makes great jackets.

Sockeye Scully · · The Socialist Republic of M… · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 70

Ive really liked the DAS. I havent tried the new one yet and would like to give it a try.

Ive also been liking the Nuclei FL for warmer days. Its pretty warm for the weight and I like the simplicity. 

Kater Klaus · · Dschibuti (Stadt) · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

i found the Citadel on sale, so i went for it. 

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I don't have the 2021 DAS, but I have an older one that I wouldn't part with.  They're great!

Kater Klaus · · Dschibuti (Stadt) · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

https://www.exxpozed.de/herren-jacken-mountain-equipment-m-citadel-jacket-medieval-blue-magma-21b?gclid=CjwKCAiAlfqOBhAeEiwAYi43FwUmv2VgrlZfEdmrTmy2KlgTOBTwVPz8CxdAMRT5o8u7L-y41JZaCBoCriUQAvD_BwE#!?variant=1688787

Oliver Wilson · · Leicester, GB · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 0

Can anyone comment on the neck section of the Arc Nuclei SV ? I have a ME Citadel which is I  think 2 or 3 generations old and the neck seems to ride down pretty quick if the hood isn’t up, exposing your neck. I was reluctant to buy another for this reason.

Thanks,


Oli

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

It does not have any bling factor, but I´m really happy with the Black Diamond Stance. 

Norm Larson · · Wilson, Wy. · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 70

Anyone know where to get an Arc’teryx Nuclei sv in a medium? Everywhere I’ve looked they are unavailable until next fall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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