Mountain Project Logo

Discrepancy In Outdoor/Indoor/Moonboard

Original Post
Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

I have been going to the gym for the first time regularly in years. I climb much much better outside. I have sent quite a few v5-v7s yet only a single moonboard v5, with mostly v4s/v3s. Has anyone sent v8 after only being able to moonboard a v5? Also peers I normally redpoint a number grade above outdoors match me in the gym on ropes but I think that’s simply because outdoor climbing in Washington doesn’t commonly require endurance and I simply not use to gym holds. 

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,415

Moonboard grades are kind of like the points on Whose Line Is It Anyway?

It's a great training tool.  I haven't noticed any direct correlation between Moonboard grades and outdoor grades.  It is likely person-specific.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

 v5-v7s...v5...v4s/v3s...v8...v5

Don't worry so much about the numbers. And no, you can't send V8 if you can't send V5

tobias bundle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 118
Daniel Winder wrote:

Don't worry so much about the numbers. And no, you can't send V8 if you can't send V5

Doesn’t your second sentence sort of discount the first?

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,057

Gym climbing is just a different style. Boards even more so. Much more strength based. Great to get strong to climb outside, but typically outside there’s ways to make climbs easier by finding little nuances and different beta that works with your body size/style. Inside and on boards, there’s not a lot of cheating. Core up and pull hard.

I also find that lower grades are super soft in the gym, (not boards) but when you get into 5.12 sometimes the gym climbs are harder and much more sustained.

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

I climb at a very similar level on the moonboard as I do on the rock. When I climb on the moonboard I only do benchmark problems, so maybe that contributes to the similarity. Like, I'm sure if any old wanker could grade the problems I'm doing then there would be a lot more chaos.

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

After climbing predominately outside for couple months, the gym grades feel particularly scattered and my power is usually down, so Moonboard feels particularly hard. I have a set of problems that I use to gauge where I am, and it always takes a few sessions to get back into the moonboard-style climbing for me.

And yes, Moonboard is sabdabagged, compared to outside grades I see. And also a very different style of climbing. Benchmark problems feel just as all-over-the-place as non-benchmarks.

Prav C · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 124

Most of my board climbing is on the Kilter board which is widely regarded as having softer grades than the Moonboard (especially benchmarks). The hardest I've sent on the Kilter board is V5, yet I managed to send some outdoor V5-7s in my foray into outdoor bouldering this season. The V7s were probably soft, I was able to do another lap after sending and I felt like I could do the V8 version of those climbs. In terms of pure physical difficulty I think some of the Kilter board V5s were a lot harder.

Anecdotally I have heard from many others who send much harder outdoors than their max Moonboard grade so you're not alone.

Cody Ratterman · · Logan, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 593

The moon board targets a very specific style of dynamic and core intensive moves to holds that are "good" or "okay but awkward" that highlights some people's strengths or reveals a lot more people's weaknesses when you first begin using it. 

If it is your style, you can work up to sending most problems within a V-grade of your max but some will take much more work than others. If you get completely shut down and have been climbing for several years, even your normal flash grade can feel really difficult but using it regularly will translate to getting a lot stronger on powerful boulders and crux route sections.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Well at least I feel reassured I haven’t forgotten how to climb! I also thought I lacked strength and I guess I’ll just moonboard more. Cody I flashed a few v5s this year so I thought at the very least I would be able to moonboard at that level. Thanks everyone!

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,150

I usually prefer my Moonboard to be indoors but, hey, that’s just me.

Cody Ratterman · · Logan, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 593
Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Well at least I feel reassured I haven’t forgotten how to climb! I also thought I lacked strength and I guess I’ll just moonboard more. Cody I flashed a few v5s this year so I thought at the very least I would be able to moonboard at that level. Thanks everyone!

From experience I've bouldered V9, consistently flash V5/6, been moon boarding for 4 years and still have V5 BMs I can't do right now. Some of the problems are just really hard... keep trying hard, work on problems not just grades and remember it's a training tool and not an end all be all of climbing. Technical boulders, powerful limit bouldering and modern competition setting are on opposite ends of the training spectrum and are very different to compare!

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Cody Ratterman wrote:

From experience I've bouldered V9, consistently flash V5/6, been moon boarding for 4 years and still have V5 BMs I can't do right now. Some of the problems are just really hard... keep trying hard, work on problems not just grades and remember it's a training tool and not an end all be all of climbing. Technical boulders, powerful limit bouldering and modern competition setting are on opposite ends of the training spectrum and are very different to compare!

Same, to an extent. My outdoor grade (that I can consistently climb) is roughly 3-4 grades stronger than what I can consistently climb on the MB…the moonboard, unsurprisingly, is a big ego trap with many people trying to “prove“ how strong they are by sandbagging their problems. I think it is exacerbated on the ”lower” grades as well. Many of the ”higher” grades are significantly more accurate in my experience. 

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Pinklebear wrote:

The MoonBoard is way sandbagged compared to commercial setting and outdoor V grades, and has gotten stiffer with each subsequent set. 

I agree with it being more sandbagged overall, but to me it’s apples to oranges. It’s a vastly different style than a “commercial” set IMO. The MB is one angle without volumes and is predominantly large moves on small incut holds, whereas most commercial gyms set with large holds and volumes (and individual moves vary in distance) thus creating different angles for climbers body to adjust to. There are many sets at my gym that are sloper problems or slab that I can’t come close to doing, but can regularly do climbs on the MB of the same grade in a single session. 

Interesting experience regarding stiffer grades on each set. I’ve had the opposite experience. While very anecdotal, my flash grade on the 2016 set is typically one-two grades higher than the 2019 set. I have access to both so it’s not like I’ve gotten weaker/stronger. Again, entirely anecdotal. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Discrepancy In Outdoor/Indoor/Moonboard"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.