Climbing Packs - Opinions

Hey Y’all, 

looking for some opinions on climbing packs you use/have used/and like. Looking to use it for multi pitch, but still light weight/smaller. Basically enough for my rack, rope, and essentials. Been looking at north face route rocket, mystery ranch skyline, just to give an idea of what I’m goin for. Lmk 

Thanks!!

Tufa Mochilla

Blue Ice Dragonfly has been the best in class I’ve tried

Iain Crawford wrote:

Petzl Bug fits the bill. Also heard good things about the Mountain Hardwear Multipitch 20.

I have the MP 20 (old version) and it's a tough little pack.  Friend has the bug and also likes it a lot.  MP 20 it's probably a bit more durable, has a mesh shoe pocket that is stowable and has bonus gear loops.  Bug has a better rope carry system and it's probably more comfortable on the approach.

Is this pack to carry gear to the climb, to use on the climb, or both?

John V wrote:

Is this pack to carry gear to the climb, to use on the climb, or both?

A bit of both

Tucker Pierce wrote:

A bit of both

I used this in Red Rock

https://www.eddiebauer.com/p/82305036/alchemist-2535-pack?sp=1&rrec=true

If it ever goes back on sale 50% off like when I got it it’s a good deal. It’s super durable, and you can clinch it down really tight when you climb. It takes a water bladder nicely. It’s capacity seems under rated, more like 32L without the extension. 

Finally. someone asked this question! It's about time.

FrankPS wrote:

Finally. someone asked this question! It's about time.

To be fair, the search function on the app is effectively nonexistent. 

I’d add that a pack you want to carry up a multi-pitch route is likely not the pack you want to approach with a large load. Thankfully there’s some great options that are super light and packable. I stuff my climbing pack inside my helmet (unless I have a bag of chips in there) 

Christopher Smith wrote:

I have the MP 20 (old version) and it's a tough little pack.  Friend has the bug and also likes it a lot.  MP 20 it's probably a bit more durable, has a mesh shoe pocket that is stowable and has bonus gear loops.  Bug has a better rope carry system and it's probably more comfortable on the approach.

I have the the MP 30 and I love it. Definitely a tad big for taking up a wall, but I hardly ever do climbs that require it, so I was very happy to have a pack that can carry everything I need + take it on route if needed. I am getting a tag line soon to totally solve the issue of sections that would be stupid to keep the pack on.

It holds my almost double rack of gear, shoes, snacks, and harness. The rope can be attached on the outside and so can your water bottle.

It's designed for hauling, so you know it will last a long time. 

bearded sam wrote:

I’d add that a pack you want to carry up a multi-pitch route is likely not the pack you want to approach with a large load. Thankfully there’s some great options that are super light and packable. I stuff my climbing pack inside my helmet (unless I have a bag of chips in there) 

+1.  I recommend getting two separate packs.  Put your on-route pack inside a pack that carries heavy loads well. 

I recently bought the Blue Ice Reach 12, I’m a big fan of it so far. Def not something I’m using to haul my gear around, but also light enough to carry in another bag to the bottom of a multi pitch. 

Karl Henize wrote:

+1.  I recommend getting two separate packs.  Put your on-route pack inside a pack that carries heavy loads well. 

 The trick with that though is if you are doing alpine I'd be very reticent to leave the larger pack at the bottom for fear of marmots destroying it because it has sweat on it.  Plus sometimes descents take you nowhere near the base of the climb you just did.

Doug Chism wrote:

I used this in Red Rock

https://www.eddiebauer.com/p/82305036/alchemist-2535-pack?sp=1&rrec=true

If it ever goes back on sale 50% off like when I got it it’s a good deal. It’s super durable, and you can clinch it down really tight when you climb. It takes a water bladder nicely. It’s capacity seems under rated, more like 32L without the extension. 

Dang that's a pretty bomber looking pack.  Too bad it's completely out of stock everywhere which leads me to believe that it's discontinued....

Christopher Smith wrote:

 The trick with that though is if you are doing alpine I'd be very reticent to leave the larger pack at the bottom for fear of marmots destroying it because it has sweat on it.  Plus sometimes descents take you nowhere near the base of the climb you just did.

True.  You also have the option to simply put your harness on and rack up at the car, so you don’t have to leave a pack on the ground or climb with an under-filled pack.  

bearded sam wrote:

Blue Ice Dragonfly has been the best in class I’ve tried

Just started looking at the blue ice squirrel 22. Looks friggin rad and comes in a sick orange. Pretty solid reviews too.

Anyone have experience with this one??

Christopher Smith wrote:

Dang that's a pretty bomber looking pack.  Too bad it's completely out of stock everywhere which leads me to believe that it's discontinued....

"Eddie Bauer" and "bomber" can only be used in a sentence together if the word "not" is included.

Edit: I feel like I need to qualify the above statement with backstory.  Quite a few years ago, after happily using their clothes in a work setting, I purchased a few jackets and pants from them for climbing.  Everything literally fell apart within a few months of moderate use.  They happily replaced them, but everything fell apart shortly again.  

The best climbing pack for on route is no pack. I see folks carrying a pack up 2-4 pitch routes all the time. Extra layers, water, snacks, and whatever else. Why? Have a drink at the base. Eat a candy bar beforehand. You’ll be just fine and the overall experience will be much more fun and significantly faster. Hell, I’ve done many 6-10 pitch routes without a pack and it’s absolutely the way to go.

To answer your question directly, when a pack is absolutely essential, the smallest and most durable is best. I like the original version of the BD Bullet. 

Tucker Pierce wrote:

Just started looking at the blue ice squirrel 22. Looks friggin rad and comes in a sick orange. Pretty solid reviews too.

Anyone have experience with this one??

I have used both the dragonfly and the squirrel. The squirrel has a bit more padding and suspension so it carries better but that means it also does not climb as well or stuff as well

Tucker Pierce wrote:

Just started looking at the blue ice squirrel 22. Looks friggin rad and comes in a sick orange. Pretty solid reviews too.

Anyone have experience with this one??

My wife has one, and where the compression strap attaches in to the back panel the stitching has come undone. The strap is still attached, but the backpanel outer material has split from the side panel. No structural issue yet, but doesn't give me good feelings about it.