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I've mostly only worn 5.10 Blackwings and now that they are discontinued I need new shoe recommendations!
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Anyone who has been devoted to Blackwings and found their new favorite shoes? What I like about them is they are perfect for my narrow heels and they climb well on mostly every style, even slab when they've been worn in. The rubber is soft enough to feel the rock but still rigid. I've been considering La Sportiva Skwama and/or UnParallel Up (which style I am still unsure of). Thoughts and recommendations are appreciated! |
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The guys I’ve talked to at UP say that the Lyra is the closest thing to a replacement of the black wing. I held one in person and it seemed like a cross between a blackwing and a Scarpa instinct. |
Doctor Drake wrote: I've owned both the blackwing and instinct, and found them to be very different shoes. I was also thinking about buying a pair of the Lyra's at one point, but then wasn't sure because I can't try them on anywhere for sizing. Can you explain why the lyra seems like a cross between the instinct and blackwing? |
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the Lyra seemed to have a very similar last to the blackwing, quite narrow, deepish heel cup, and had the same asymmetical and aggressive downturn I remember the blackwing being softish, but maybe I’m wrong. The Lyra felt like it had the same stiff toe box of the instinct and seemed that it would perform superbly well on steep edging. |
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I was a hardcore 5.10 fan and I am now a very hardcore Unparallel fan. Their rubber is amazing |
Lenore Sparks wrote: How's the sizing? I wear a size 7 quantum, anasazi, and an 8 in the dragons (which are my favorite, and best fitting shoe of all time). Interested in the Sirius since it's apparently very similar to the dragon. I currently have a size 8 in the new highangles and I hate them, and they've stretched out to be too large even though I couldn't get the 7.5 on my foot. |
climbing00 wrote: Hi! The sizing was a bit complicated, similar to the age old problems 5.10 had. I will send you a very detailed report when I get some time, but basically I sized to my street shoe size. If you can try them on anywhere, that would be best and for each shoe. It’s all over the place, unfortunately, at least with my feet. Once I found the magic fit for each shoe, it was like Cinderella. I think climbing shoes should be measured in Eur size, but UP uses USA shoe sizing. |
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Check out the UP's. Made in USA, super sticky. |
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I have the same issue. Love the Blackwing and am struggling to find something else that I like as much. Have tried several UPs and haven't loved. Have you found somthing you like Rita? |
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I've settled on the Scarpa Instincts and they are my go-to shoes now. They take a while to break in but once they have, it is the best! |
