Torn Pectoral Tendon Recovery

Hi all,

I tore my pectoralis tendon off of the humerus attachment and had surgery to reattach it. The surgery was successful, and now comes recovery. Doctors are saying I should expect anywhere from a 5 to 12 month recovery to full strength, but I also know that this injury mostly happens to bodybuilders who are looking to go back to bench pressing. Any climbers out there with experience recovering from this surgery? Any advice generally on how to have a positive mindset throughout this forced time away from climbing? Thanks!

sam

I did the same thing although not sure if it was a full tear or partial. Happened like 10 years ago and I had surgery. I tore it snowboarding. Made a full recovery in 6 months. I was climbing, albeit not hard, after 3 months. 

Thanks Nick. How old were you when you were injured, and also could your elaborate on what you mean by “albeit not hard”? Thanks so much, and I’m glad you made a full recovery, definitely the kind of positive inspiration I need! 

Tore mine off the bone.  Had it re-attached.

I think after around 4 months of fairly intensive PT I was back climbing again and leading at near the same level.  Painful PT.  But, full range of motion and no issues since.  Full strength, no lasting issues.  Back to normal in 6 months or so.

Had it done nearly 20 years ago (1993).

"Fall off" the bone.  That's funny.  I felt mine slide off the bone as I adjusted my weight from hand to hand on a steep sport climb, just under the final crux roof.  Went into shock and I wasn't sure what I'd done.  Got home, looked in the mirror...yikes.

Been careful about being too spread out with my hands above me ever since...

I tore my left pectoral tendon off my humerus skiing in February of 2019.  I had it surgically repaired. (unicortical button repair). I was in a sling for about 6 weeks and did a lot of PT.  Started climbing again that may and climbed El Cap that June.  Have climbed on it ever since and had no pain or weakness.  My Surgeon was excellent.  (if you're in Colorado I would definitely recommend him)

Hi all,

Just thought I'd update everyone on my progress as others may find it helpful down the line.

I had surgery on December 7th 2021. At time of writing this, I am almost two months post surgery.

After six weeks of being in a sling, when I really couldn't do much at all in terms of physical activity past walking, I now have nearly full range of motion back in my shoulder. I am able to run and do other cardio without restriction, as well as leg exercises and abs. Indeed, I feel like I could start easy climbing now. I am doing range of motion PT once per week with a PT and on my own several times a day. I am getting an evaluation to begin strengthening protocol on March 1st with my surgeon; hopefully shortly thereafter I can begin easy climbing and begin to get back into it. 

As before, I am looking for more climbers who are willing to share their experiences with this surgery as I look to get my climbing strength back... going to be a big ego check to see how much I've lost in what will be 3 or 4 months total of not climbing at all. 

Thanks

Sam

Update:

On May 1st, less than 5 mo out from surgery, I sent my pre-surgery proj. As soon as I was cleared, I began to hang board a ton. At the start of March, I started easy easy top roping in the gym. It all came back very quickly. Injuries fuckin' suck, but don't doubt yourself! In my experience, my body responded really well to the shit I was doing, and I am now contentedly back at full strength. There's a light at the end of the tunnel for you!

Sam

Sam,

Did you get an MRI to see that it was torn off the humerus? 

I Had an MRI showing a tear in my labrum....but all of my pain is in my pec muscle?   It just feels irritated at all times.  

What did your pec feel like?

Thanks 

Keith 

Hey Keith,

Yes I did get an MRI to show the extent of the tear.

After the fall, but before surgery, I did not feel pain in my pec unless I pressed my left arm into something. The easiest way to diagnose a torn pec (without an MRI) is, I hear, doing the "praying" symbol with two hands pressing against each other at your sternum, fingers up. This was very painful before surgery. 

Best of luck. 

Sam

Hi Sam

At work today I was lowering myself down from a height (like a reverse mantle kind of move) and heard the unmistakable pop!
orthopaedic did a physical exam and confirmed a tear between the pec and the Humerus. He advised surgery and it’s lined up for Monday.

I’m 40 years old on sighting 5.12 on sport and 5.11 trad. Right now I’m super bummed as climbing is passion. I just want to thank you for sharing your thoughts on the injury, it’s given me a jolt of positive energy.

Any other tips you may have going into the surgery would be valuable.

Thanks 

Aidan 

Hi Aidan,

I am sorry to hear about your injury! I hope that your surgery went well. Nothing it more of a bummer than not being able to move your body in the same way that you're used to, but it's only temporary! As soon as you're able to start making progress you will feel the stoke trickling back to you...

Let me know if you have any questions as you progress post-surgery, I'd be happy to help.

Sam