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New rope — is this actually a defect?

Original Post
Susie B · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 6

Hey, want to crowdsource some opinions — I found an irregularity in a rope I just bought that I’m concerned might indicate a defect. The folks at Backcountry say it’s a normal thing, but would love some outside options  

About 6 stitches in the rope are larger than the rest and slightly bulge out with a little fraying. The core feels fine, but anything that seems off with a new rope has me concerned about its safety. Is this a normal thing? 


Elliot K · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

I don't really have an opinion on whether or not this is ok, but I'd suggest reaching out to the rope manufacturer for a more definitive opinion than from Backcountry.

Jay Goodwin · · OR-NV-CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 13

It is a splice in the sheath yarns. Nothing to worry about. Search for air splice here; there was another thread on this same thing a month or so ago.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

From that Sterling page, it looks like an air splice is used where a rope changes pattern or color.The OP's rope looks all the same color and pattern. Why would there be an air splice on that?

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1
Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

definitely retire the rope.  I’ll pay the shipping to my place for proper disposal :) 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
FrankPS wrote:

From that Sterling page, it looks like an air splice is used where a rope changes pattern or color.The OP's rope looks all the same color and pattern. Why would there be an air splice on that?

I believe an air splice is also used whenever a spool of yarn has run out and needs to be replaced with a new spool. In OP's pic you can see that there are 2 strands of black for a little bit. Looks 100% like a splice to me, but I don't weave ropes for a living.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Gunkiemike wrote:

I believe an air splice is also used whenever a spool of yarn has run out and needs to be replaced with a new spool. In OP's pic you can see that there are 2 strands of black for a little bit. Looks 100% like a splice to me, but I don't weave ropes for a living.

Thanks!

Patrick L · · Idyllwild · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Yeah I commented in the other thread that it was an air splice, and that they only use them when they change colors or pattern, but I was probably wrong about that part. That was just what bluewater told me about their ropes, but as far as I know, a rope company might use them whenever they run out of any yarn/thread. 

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

A slub.

Susie B · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 6

Thanks for the input y’all! fwiw the rope manufacturer (Black Diamond) hasn't been at all responsive when I reached out about it, but consensus everywhere else seems to be that it’s safe. Appreciate it!

Adam Wood · · seattle · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 1,448

You could entirely remove the sheath of that rope and it would still hold. Ropes are designed with a series of weaved core strands and an outer sleeve (sheath) to protect those strands. Any defect or damage to a sheath is like scratches on your car. They do not affect the engine. Once you see white or feel soft spots inside the rope you should worry.

It is a good idea to feel the entire rope as you flake it. Soft or inconsistent feeling or the core can signal crushed or damaged core strands. 

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 50
Susie B wrote:

Thanks for the input y’all! fwiw the rope manufacturer (Black Diamond) hasn't been at all responsive when I reached out about it, but consensus everywhere else seems to be that it’s safe. Appreciate it!

There a possibility that Black Diamond may not know the answer since they don't manufacture their ropes. 

You'd be very surprised to find out how much climbing gear is manufactured by a company other than the one who puts their name on it!

Eva Williams · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

Same thing. Same rope. Rope is 2 months old and has been barely climbed on. Only indoors. One soft catch on an overhung route did this. I got mine at REI so will return there. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
Eva Williams wrote:

Same thing. Same rope. Rope is 2 months old and has been barely climbed on. Only indoors. One soft catch on an overhung route did this. I got mine at REI so will return there. 

Not a defect, that is wear from the rope grating across something. Could happened to a 2 year old rope or a 2 month old rope. The hurts more when it is a new rope.

That said, I would back track to where it could have happened at the gym and let them know.

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5
Eva Williams wrote:

Same thing. Same rope. Rope is 2 months old and has been barely climbed on. Only indoors. One soft catch on an overhung route did this. I got mine at REI so will return there. 

Definitely damage caused from use and not the same thing as OP.  I understand REI's policy but it seems wrong to me to take it back there  for a refund and send it to a landfill when the rope was perfectly fine.  Pulling a rope over a sharp edge will cut it, day 1 or day 1000. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Eva Williams wrote:

Same thing. Same rope. Rope is 2 months old and has been barely climbed on. Only indoors. One soft catch on an overhung route did this. I got mine at REI so will return there. 

If for whatever reason (REI policy, sudden attack of eco-conscience) you don't get this back to where you bought it... I'm looking for a 120ft length of good rope. LMK if you want to sell me the usable part of it.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424
Eva Williams wrote:

Same thing. Same rope. Rope is 2 months old and has been barely climbed on. Only indoors. One soft catch on an overhung route did this. I got mine at REI so will return there. 

That doesn't look like the same thing at all.

OP's rope has a thicker bit of the black fibers feeding through, which then seems to end. Your rope has both blue and black strands cut, in an area that crosses a bunch of fibers (i.e. it's not just the fibers ending).

I don't personally see any issue with returning items to a big corporation if you can, but I will say, there's no way this is a manufacturer defect. It's pretty clear that this was caused by some sharp edge, and if I were you, I'd talk to the gym where this happened and see if you can find/replace the sharp edge so this doesn't happen to someone else's rope.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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