Which Tahoe bouldering guidebook to start with?

Moved to Sacramento this year, and also adding bouldering back into the climbing rotation. Fortunately there's a lot to do around here, too much almost. Too many guidebooks to choose from. Not wanting to throw down $200 for the full stack of guidebooks right away, where to start? I'd probably buy just one (two at most) of them first, and focus on that area for now. North? South? Etc...

Key details:

- Live in Sac. Shorter drives from Sac are better. No gnarly 4WD.

- Areas still climbable in late fall and early spring are appealing, since that's the season we're in.

- Areas not burned/closed from Caldor the Burninator. 

- Stuff climbable with one big pad preferred (good landings).

Basically just looking for low hanging fruit - accessible from Sac, easy problems, good landings, climbable now. Which Tahoe region/guidebook offers the most?

In addition to book/region recs, recommendations for specific Tahoe bouldering areas are also welcome.

Following.  I'm just starting to explore the bouldering scene in North Tahoe.  I have the book for the whole region (it's in Tahoe so I can't access the title).  There are a lot of boulders, so getting the more detailed books really helps once you find a zone you like (I took a few photos of key pages on one that was left at a boulder).  Of course, MP helps too.

Get this: tahoesportsltd.com/boulderi…

Justin Wang wrote:

Get this: tahoesportsltd.com/boulderi…

I'm leaning toward that (starting with North).  Any specific reasons for this recommendation, though?

If you are really trying to save money and only get 1 book, I'd get the North/West shore 1st edition which is overall a bigger book than either of the 2nd editions. It does contain some now closed to the public areas, but I find a lot of the areas in the 2nd edition that were expanded upon to be a bit further out and more of a hassle to get to. I guess it would also depend on your willingness/desire to check out the newer areas as well.

Tyler Shopshire wrote:

If you are really trying to save money and only get 1 book, I'd get the North/West shore 1st edition which is overall a bigger book than either of the 2nd editions. It does contain some now closed to the public areas, but I find a lot of the areas in the 2nd edition that were expanded upon to be a bit further out and more of a hassle to get to. I guess it would also depend on your willingness/desire to check out the newer areas as well.

This is a good idea. A quick internet search shows a good-condition used copy of the 1st ed. North/West available for $30. May do this. Any other notable downsides to getting the older edition? I don't see myself seeking out far-flung newer areas at this point, so if the old edition has good coverage of the main zones, and one book gives you a greater number of these main zones, that seems like a good plan.

Thanks for the beta everyone. Looking forward to getting out and seeing some of these areas.

JCM wrote:

This is a good idea. A quick internet search shows a good-condition used copy of the 1st ed. North/West available for $30. May do this. Any other notable downsides to getting the older edition? I don't see myself seeking out far-flung newer areas at this point, so if the old edition has good coverage of the main zones, and one book gives you a greater number of these main zones, that seems like a good plan.

Thanks for the beta everyone. Looking forward to getting out and seeing some of these areas.

On a similar note to the mentioned downside about some areas in the 1st edition being closed to the public, I can think of at least 1 popular boulder (Sugar Cube at Rainbow) whose parking/approach info in the 1st edition is explicitly recommended against in the 2nd due to issues with neighbors. That might be the sole exception though, I'm not 100% sure. White Lines at Donner Summit may have gotten an updated approach too in the 2nd. Of course, no book can ever be totally up-to-date with current day conditions, so the advantage of the 2nd edition is only to the degree of "best effort".

One thing that's worth noting just because you mentioned wanting a shorter drive, is that many of the North areas are actually along I-80 before Lake Tahoe, so about an hour closer to Sacramento than many of the West Shore areas. If that difference doesn't matter to you, then definitely get the 1st ed. for the "great number of main zones" reason you mention above. But if you really want to focus on boulders that are under 90 minutes drive, then 2nd ed. North shore would give you more options for a longer period of time.  There's not really a right/wrong choice, just which side of the trade off you prefer.

Justin Wang wrote:

On a similar note to the mentioned downside about some areas in the 1st edition being closed to the public, I can think of at least 1 popular boulder (Sugar Cube at Rainbow) whose parking/approach info in the 1st edition is explicitly recommended against in the 2nd due to issues with neighbors. That might be the sole exception though, I'm not 100% sure. White Lines at Donner Summit may have gotten an updated approach too in the 2nd. Of course, no book can ever be totally up-to-date with current day conditions, so the advantage of the 2nd edition is only to the degree of "best effort".

One thing that's worth noting just because you mentioned wanting a shorter drive, is that many of the North areas are actually along I-80 before Lake Tahoe, so about an hour closer to Sacramento than many of the West Shore areas. If that difference doesn't matter to you, then definitely get the 1st ed. for the "great number of main zones" reason you mention above. But if you really want to focus on boulders that are under 90 minutes drive, then 2nd ed. North shore would give you more options for a longer period of time.  There's not really a right/wrong choice, just which side of the trade off you prefer.

Good feedback. 90 min or less drive (easy day trip) is the target. Having the updated approach/parking info matters too. Will buy the North 2nd Ed.  Thanks!

I'll probably end up buying more books in the future anyway...

if they took out all the unnamed VBs and V0s they would only need one book for the whole lake...

caesar.salad wrote:

if they took out all the unnamed VBs and V0s they would only need one book for the whole lake...

Fortunately for me I'm super weak right now, and enjoy a no-star lowball. Unnamed V0s lets go....

Thanks Todd - replied now to DM.

Yup, well aware of the incoming snow. I guess the dry fall can't last forever, and we need the water. Will definitely want to check out Christmas Valley and other south shore areas, if dry conditions present themselves this winter, or otherwise in the spring. Christmas Valley seems like it would suit current interests/fitness quite well.

On that note, if looking out to the next-spring timeline hopefully I'll be a bit more in-form. Just coming back to thinking about climbing harder after putting it on hiatus for a few years for life-stuff. If/when I get back to prior climbing levels that brings main focus into the V5-V8 range, and presumably that opens up a different set of areas to choose from.  Not getting ahead of myself on that though, and for now am pretty pleased to just be getting out on the V4 and below range.

Todd Berlier wrote:

i think a boulderer can be very happy in sacramento.  welcome! 

im sure you've looked into a bunch of the bay area stuff, but if i were to strongly recommend any specific problem it would be gerstle cove roof. i would call it the best V4 on the planet and salt point is definitely worth the trip in general.

have fun!

That does look good, thanks for the recommendation. Lots of new places to visit; motivation is high. Hoping to check out the Columbia bouldering soon too. I do have the Thornburg Bay Area book.

Is there a book or any information available for the bouldering in Bowman valley? 

Dylan, Bowman bouldering is covered briefly in North Tahoe by Josh Horniak (the North Tahoe route climbing guidebook).  Its only a few pages of info though so might not be worth picking up the book just for this.

Follow-up question: If interested in exploring the bouldering of the HWY 88 corridor (Kirkwood area and surroundings), which guidebook would be better? It seems like this zone is unfortunately split between two different books (East, and Outlying). With Erratica, Silver Lake, etc in Outlying, and areas further east (Burnside Lake and others) in East.  Which is a better starting point?  As before, coming from Sacramento. Target grade range V5-V8 ish. Areas that didn't burn last summer would be ideal. Or is it all burned/closed from Caldor, so don't bother currently?

Todd Berlier wrote:

pretty sure everything south of 88 is open to climbing: platinums, freaks,  woods lake (amazing gift one of areas best 8s), caples lake, burnside but north is closed until at least 3/31: kirkwood lake, lost world, shealor lake, erratica.

hope valley--ive seen ig posts from.

Good news on the south areas being open. May be able to spend some good time up there this summer them.  Are those mostly in Outlying, East, or are they split?

Awesome, thanks. Apologies for so many questions, it's a vast area to figure out the layout for!

Hope you forgive me latching onto your thread. I’m definitely going to purchase the guidebooks mentioned above.

I had another question though. What Tahoe areas would be toddler friendly in June or July? (Short approach, no giant cliffs, or rockfall hazards, short enough problems that one parent can boulder alone while the other plays with baby.) We don’t care about optimal conditions or temps as long as we’re not getting roasted. Thanks. 

Todd Berlier wrote:

Christmas valley is the place. level--right off the road. every approach < 5 minutes--its perfect. shorter problems on average too.

what side of tahoe is easist for you--so i can give the best recommendations (all IMHO)?

Thanks! We can do either side. We’re teachers and so June and July is travel time. This will be our first time doing it with a baby. He’ll be one by the summer. We bought a 14 ft travel trailer to make baby camp more enjoyable. We’re coming from Utah, but we can post up anywhere. Especially if it’s near forest/blm/campgrounds. 

Todd Berlier wrote:

and to anyone reading this thread i am super happy to give my opinion on anything Tahoe and bouldering.

unsolicited advice: SNOWSHOES!

spring is now in tahoe with a decent pair.

Where have you checked out recently that is good to go? I've been making trips to the east the past couple weekends and it would be good to ease off the driving for a weekend.

Another guidebook question:  Does anyone know what the deal is with the updated edition of the Outlying Areas book? I see two different versions from different sources, and its unclear which the old vs. new edition, or if they are the same. Would want to buy the updated version, if such a thing exists. Online info is a bit unclear.

There's the edition of Outlying Areas with the grey border.   And a (possibly) different edition of Outlying Areas with an orange border. Anyone know which is the latest/greatest? Or are these just different covers for the same book?