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injured lumbricals with forearm pain
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Yes! I actually reaggravated a lumbrical injury on Monday. In my case there is light pain in both the palm and forearm when bending my pinky and ring finger differently. I know there’s a bunch of information on lumbricals by Hooper’s Beta on youtube so maybe check that out. I have been able to climb just fine with the fingers buddy taped, just need to avoid middle-2 pockets for a bit again… |
Alex Holmann wrote: Did u feel a pop when you hurt it? Also is the forearm pain palpable? For me, when I massage on the pinky side right below my wrist, i can feel the pain. I've seen that video many times now (first saw it when i hurt my right hand lumbricals a few months ago, healed up fine now). I'm more worried that this time my left hand lumbricals are much worse because i cant put any weight on the ring finger when isolated, whereas before, it hurt but I was able to pull a bit more. |
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I heard a small pop somewhere in my palm/forearm area. In order to feel any real pain though I need to close my pinky and pull on my ring finger with a few pounds of force. For me, I have noticed that trying to make a fist gives a pretty good indication of where things are at. Back in August I had a worse injury and I had a hard time holding the climbers side rope tight while belaying to jug them up. I had to use an ascender to jug folks up until I could hold on better with my hand. Can you still half crimp with all 4 fingers on the hold? For both my injuries I could crimp fine, I just felt cautious about not letting my pinky drop off the hold. |
Alex Holmann wrote: 4 fingers on anything feels fine for the most part. Since I injured it while warming up, I actually still climbed like it was a regular session yesterday (just avoided pockets). Even though I probably shouldn't have, it wasn't that painful and I was still performing more or less at my limit. I feel the pain even if I close my pinky and just exert the smallest force w my ring finger. I've noticed that making a fist in certain directions is more or less painless, but it does hurt in other directions. For example, it hurts when I make a fist with my palm up leaning back towards the pinky side. Were you not able to make a fist back in August? How long did it take to heal? I was really looking forward to getting home in a month where I can climb outdoors a lot more with a better gym facility as well and am now really hoping that it heals up by then |
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It took me about a month to fully heal (apparently should have done some more injury prevention so it didn’t happen again though). The first few weeks I could not tighten my ring finger fully into a fist (maybe 90%, just could not get it tight). Despite the injury, I had my most productive season of climbing ever, sending 7 of my hardest sport climbs. If your case is anything like mine, buddy taping, sticking to 4-finger holds and doing all those exercises/stretches that the video mentions should heal you up quick. It’s hard to have an exact list of which holds to avoid since you can grab holds in so many ways, so I would just avoid things that hurt. Hope you heal up for your trip home! |
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Hey @Wrong Mass how did this injury turn out? How was the healing process? By the sound of it, I got the exact same injury bouldering yesterday and I'm wondering how long I should expect to not be climbing |
Jon Brenner wrote: Make sure it's really a lumbrical injury by watching some videos about diagnosing it if you cant get to a PT. If your experience is anything like mine (or my friends), then it'll heal very quickly and it probably won't even limit your climbing in any way. I took like 3-4 days off and went about climbing at my regular intensity (just being mindful of not dropping the pinky at all), and it healed by itself in a few weeks. I didn't do anything else differently. In fact, I think climbing was pretty helpful in the healing process because of the circulation of blood flow to the fingers, but that's just my personal unprofessional advice. |
