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Favorite crack climbing gloves
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I lost one of my crack climbing gloves so it is time to buy a new pair. My old pair were 4 year old ocun gloves. They were functional but the finger loops were too small and too narrow; it felt like they were cutting into my fingers. There seems to be many more manufactures than there were a few years ago. What are your recommendations? |
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Wide Boyz are great but out of stock, I'd go for bd rn. |
that guy named seb wrote: I want to try them but being a Yankee means the VAT on it makes it cam priced |
David Carlson wrote: The rubber is great as is the construction, my biggest concern would be the stitching. My partner uses crack gloves (I wouldn't bother unless I'm in sandstone) and she always fucks the stitching on all the pairs she's used wide Boyz included. BD have a rubber-ish back, no seams and great design, not as much protection as the wide Boyz but both are great. |
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Black Diamond for most cracks, Wide Boyz for wide |
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Check out the ocun lite gloves. The finger holes are bigger and the glove is thinner overall. Haven't tried any other crack gloves but they've been great. |
Austin Shaver wrote: I have had the old ocuns, and the light. The light is a different color and a worse design IMO. The finger loops are slightly larger, but the aren’t any thinner, I feel the fit is worse on the hand (not as form fitting) and they jacked up the closure. The BD ones are awesome so far (20 something pitches) Super thin and sensitive. Also super form fitting and the thumb covering is awesome. The fingers felt really small at first, but they stretch, and the jury is still out on durability. Purely on performance they’re the best alternative to tape, or nothing IMO. |
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I got the BD ones for my first season of crack climbing and they worked awesome......until the extra rubber on the back of the hands started ripping off. They started peeling after about 2-3 months of use. Still useable, but not in the greatest shape for only a summer of jamming in them (about 100 pitches on granite + laps on a wooden crack trainer). Another downside was that they seemed to be a little too tight for me in the size I ordered (M), which starts reducing blood flow on longer climbs. I'd often climb the crux of a route with them on and then once I found a good stance I'd take them off for the rest of it to keep my hands from going numb by the top. The large gloves would be way too big for me, so kind of between sizes for usability. One thing I love about them is how thin they seem to be compared to other gloves. Not much bulk, but still a ton of protection. I definitely am going to get the WideBoyz gloves as my next pair given how much more durable they look. Also considering the G7s given how long they'd probably last. More of an upfront investment, but I'd prefer to have a glove that's been broken in and lasts for more than 1-2 seasons. |
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I just picked up a pair of the BDs because they were heavily discounted. My initial impression are that they fit between the ORs and the Ocun gloves in terms of thickness and likely in durability. The OR ones snagged on a branch and broke. Just complete garbage. Sized appropriately, I had a pair of Ocuns last me over 300 pitches of learning to crack climb. The thumb loop finally blew this summer. I bought another pair of Ocuns and (accidentally) sized down, huge mistake as they’re almost done after less than a season (in which I’ve been climbing more finger cracks and less hand and fist stuff). I’ve played with the Grivel ones as my old roommate has a pair. They’re pretty much Ocun knockoffs. And I think that the fact they have Vibram rubber is nothing more than a marketing gimmick. My gf has the G7s and they’re pretty good. The inner material delaminates pretty quickly, but they’ve otherwise held up well. My major complaint about all crack gloves is the sizing. I’ve been a men’s medium in just about every conceivable article of clothing my entire life. I don’t have particularly large hands. For whatever reason, I’m an XL in Grivel, Ocun, and BD. At first I thought it was just a Euro sizing thing, but I couldn’t even get the BD larges off at the thumb when I tried them on. I legitimately thought I was going to break them at the store. For reference, I will buy men’s S/M or women’s M/L gloves for ice climbing as I like them to be super snug even after they’ve packed out. Crack glove sizing sucks.
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