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Overweight Top Rope Solo
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Hi all. I am heavy set, 5'10, 300 lbs (136 kg) and would like to getting to TRS (as if getting into this sport wasn't challenging enough). Due to my weight and in an abundance of caution, I am electing to go with two ropes, two ascenders. Initial Setup:
However, after reading into this setup further, a failure on the primary rope can cause a high fall factor on the secondary rope and cause a torn sheath if using any device with teeth (i.e., Ascension and Microtraxion). As such, I elected to go with a toothless cam. Revised Setup:
I am concerned about the Rescucender, although it seems to go up easily, it doesn't stop as good as the Microcender used to. I also looked at the Spoc, CAMP Lift, ROLLNLOCK, etc., but some have weight limits that I clearly exceed. I know TRS falls aren't as intense for most people, but with my added weight, those forces tend to increase pretty dramatically. Can anyone provide some input (and yes, I need to lose weight and I'm working on it)? Open to all feedback. Thanks!! |
eddie eddie wrote: How do you imagine that happening? It is possible with clipping backup loops far apart on the other strand, but it sounds like you are talking about a progress capture device on each strand. The fall factor onto the backup is the same as the initial fall. There is good data on Microtrax cutting rope sheaths. It takes a bit of a fall. I wouldn't worry about toothed devices, because the benefits outweigh the risks. If it makes you uncomfortable, I would use a thicker rope rather than change devices. Be sure to use rebelays and redirects as needed, and know the difference between the two. |
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I’d recommend learning to climb with a partner on a normal belay first. Not having a partner to check systems, help make decisions, or initiate a rescue etc, can really up the risk. There’s enough to learn outside without having to belay yourself at the same time(it can be pretty hands free, but definitely not as forget about it as a human belayer is). That being said, if you wanna do it there’s plenty of good resources on YouTube and Facebook. Your setup sounds good, you most likely only need a single 70m rope though unless your pitches will be over 100 feet. Teethed devices are always gonna lock up quicker than camming devices, as there’s less rope slip happening to arrest a fall. |
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I recommend a static rope. |
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The microcender is made to allow a little slippage which is a good thing |
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The Petzl Micro has been discontinued, right? Here's a nearly identical device: |
Lane Mathis wrote: Probably a "semi-static" rope would be a better idea. "Semi-static", aka low elongation ropes are typically used for TR in gyms. They are more pleasant to fall on that purely static ropes. Here is cursory overview of semi-static ropes, with static included for comparison Static, 3/8 HTP - elongation 1.4% at 300lb Semi-Static, 3/8 WorkPro - elongation 3.5% at 300lb Low-Elongation Top Rope, ReVO 9.8 mm - elongation 4.1% at 150kg ( ~330lb) I would consider purely dynamic ropes to be safety issue for 300lb climber. |
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Don't let your weight get to your head! With the exception of a few circumstances (which I discuss below), you don't need to do anything different than everyone else does. Climbing gear is built with pretty wide safety margins, and the forces involved in real world falls are a lot lower than you probably think. I encourage you to do the math and calculate the fall factor for a typical toprope solo fall (spoiler alert, it's crazy low). Also, even though those toothed devices look scary, like they're gonna shred your rope to ribbons, they just don't. There are really only 3 scenarios which being a heavier climber makes a difference: 1) Weight difference between partners with lead belaying: If you're lead belaying a much lighter climber, you need to use good form and be extra alert to give them a soft catch. If you're being lead belayed by a light belayer, I highly recommend the Edelrid Ohm device, it works really well. 2) Whipping on marginal trad placements: If the rock/placement is questionable, then your extra weigh might make the difference between the piece ripping and holding. For good placements in good rock, your weight is irrelevant. 3) Hauling on a big wall: bigger is better! You use your body weight to haul. Spindly little climbers end up having to press their feet against the wall and power-squat away to haul heavy loads. Heavier climbers have an easier time :) |
amarius wrote: There shouldn't be any actually falls in TR solo. In my opinion, elongation isn't desired. |
Lane Mathis wrote: Agree. Static rope for sure. With your ascenders attached to yourself correctly you should not actually be falling, just sort of sitting back a couple of inches onto them. Microtrax is perfectly safe with a backup as long as you’re not taking actual falls onto them. You should also have at least one handled ascender girth-hitched to your harness. Before actually going to a crag you should spend some time in the gym (preferably with someone who has done it before) working everything out: What are you going to do if your anchor is a ways back from the edge of the cliff? What if you want to work a section? How will you transition from your ascenders to your grigri and back mid-route (hint: this is why you brought the handled ascender)? What if you can’t pull a move and you’re right below a roof? There’s more but those are a few things that can make for a miserable and potentially dangerous experience if you don’t know what you’re doing. |
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Focus on your skills, not your weight. You need to be very solid on anchors, know how to ascend the rope and self rescue, know how to rap and transition, etc. It is fundamental to not allow any slack in the system so you can't generate a high factor fall (or anything close). Microtrax is great TRS device and will not shred your rope unless you screw up and allow slack in the system. Taz Lov is a great device if you have the budget. Don't use ascenders that are not rated to catch falls. There is a TRS forum on Facebook with lots of good setups to review. Use a static rope with a tough sheath and pay attention to protecting your rope(s). Dynamic ropes have less material in the sheath and you don't want to be yo-yoing around on the rope anyway. I use Sterling Work Pro with polyester sheath - very tough. Weight the rope enough to allow the gear to glide up without pushing slack into the rope. Don't weight it too much because that weight is pulling you off the rock whenever you traverse. If the weight hangs up on a shelf, pull in some rope below you and re-tie it to get the weight back on the system. Wear a helmet and keep your phone on you (solo is operative term). |
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Also, unless the routes you’re wanting to hop on are a full 70m, just use one rope. Tie an 8 on a bight at the midpoint and attach that to your anchor. Now you have two strands hanging and only had to haul a single rope to the top. |
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Practice your setup in a safe controlled environment. Include several self rescue scenarios. Agree, keep your phone on you - even when practicing - getting locked into the system without escape is a risk. |
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If when you sit in your harness you feel like you are tipping back at all, you may add a chest harness (even just a webbing one) getting flipped upside town or feeling like you are having to hold a sit up position while transferring from climbing to rappelling is no fun! |
Not to derail the thread but what about falling near the anchor? For example the scenario where the climber reaches the anchor, pulls themself up to go in direct, but then falls. Even though the fall distance is short, there is little rope left in the system. I doubt it would reach 4kN (which most of the TR solo devices are rated for) but you could conceivably approach a fall factor of 1. |
PatMas wrote: Good advice. I use a chest harness. Helps keep the devices separated as well as being very secure. BD Vario but trying out a Metolius later today. I don't like the way the Vario slips and auto-adjusts where the straps cross in the back. Metolius is sewn there and adjusts across the chest which seems better.  |
Lane Mathis wrote: Yes - 300 lbs is real and many of the systems you reasearch online will be less than safe for this load. Statics will handle sheath wear, cutting and stretch much better. Consider a Petzl Pro Traxion as one of your progress capture devices. |
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I don't recommend a Rescucender. I tried one as part of my initial TRS set up. I had a Rescucender on one rope and a microtrax on the other. For falls, things were working fine, but when I would lean back into my harness (to rest or study the holds, etc), sometimes the Rescucender wouldn't catch. It would just slide down the rope. Really freaked me out. I did some digging online at the time and saw a few other reports of the same thing. So I switched to a grigri on one rope and a MT on the other. Now I just use a grigri and backup knots. |
Prav C wrote: It is all about slack management. With a good system, devices glide up as you move and very little slack develops. "Fall" is more like sitting onto the rope - I've never felt a fall on my static. With a poorly-feeding system (grigri for example) the scenario you describe might be an issue. You make a good point that all of us need to be very aware of keeping our hips below the anchor and keeping slack out of our systems regardless of whether we are doing TRS or something else. Being "direct" isn't necessarily safe. |
eddie eddie wrote: JC and Sam Skovgaard are right. Don't worry about your weight. Weight can be an issue in climbing, but least of all in top rope soloing. Rope Whatever you do, please stick to a dynamic rope. The fact that a dynamic rope stretches is often presented as a problem, when in fact it's the solution to keeping forces on you and your devices as low as possible. I've fallen just above the round on 50m of dynamic rope and yes, I touched the ground, but under tension so falling is more like being guided gently downward. You also have plenty of options to re-belay and re-direct. Do not use a thicker rope than 10mm. Any thicker and your devices may no work so well. Regarding static and semi-static: they are the same thing. Semit static is the term for non-dynamic ropes. The only time rope stretch is an issue is if you are finger jamming in cracks where there is no footholds. Anchors Devices Think about a single rope. Use your Micro Traxion as your primary on an oval Biner, connected to your tie in points with an 7mm PSA maillon and a 17cm dogbone. As per Petzl. Then raise it with an elasticated chest rig. The elastication keeps everything under tension so nothing will crossload. The 17cm dogbone means if the Trax fails it won't slam (with your full bodyweight) down into the device below. Device two/backup. Petzl recommend that you attach another device to another point on your harness. I agree with this strongly. Connect your Ascension to your belay loop with an oval Biner. A Petzl Okay with a Tanga and Captiv are ideal as the Ascension cross loads badly or even swallows the gate all too easily as it is essntial being trailed below not under tension. Eventually you may want to replace the Ascension for a 2nd Traxion. I am trying to get a Camp Turbolock to test and it looks ideal for TRS. Stay away from Spoc, Duck and even RollNLock. Also stay away from the fall arrest (non-toothed) devices like the Rescucender, I've tried them all and they are designed for a different setting. The types of falls on rock are too varied and toothed devices are safest given the many variables. Make one grab mistake with a fall arrest device and you will deck. The Taz Lov2 is an exception, but needs backing up too. |
