Anasazi VCS replacement/equivalent shoe

Hi folks, I am struggling to find a good replacement for my favourite trad shoe after adidas has ruined 5.10 and discontinued the Anasazi line. Does anyone have suggestions for a similar shoe?

Things I'm particularly after:

1. comfy all day but still climbs hard stuff well

2. toe point very flat, central, narrow, and flexible: good for thin cracks

3. fits wide feet pretty well

The new NIAD line and the UP equivalent doesn't hit point 2 well, they are both a fatter toe and the NIAD is weirdly off centered. TC pros are the closest I've come to something similar but they're too stiff and big for thin cracks and really not as comfy.

Thoughts appreciated!

Wow, no responses on a very important question, I need to know this Anasazi VCS replacement too. 

It seem like every smaller, up and coming brand (I.e., Mad Rock, Evolv, Tenaya, etc.) had or has a VCS clone. The closest I've tried is probably the Tenaya Ra but it is softer than the 5.10 VCS.

When you wrote that the NIAD is "weirdly off centered" do you mean asymmetrical, like longest closer to the big toe? Symmetrical vs asymmetrical is obviously foot dependent, but I like asymmetrical (like a Boostic) vs more symmetrical (Mythos, TC Pro).

https://www.unparallelsports.com/

Try using the forum search

that guy named seb wrote:

https://www.unparallelsports.com/

Try using the forum search

Try reading?

"The UP equivalent doesn't hit point 2 well"

Unparallel might still work. The Up-Rise Pro has a flatter toe than their version of the Anasazi VCS. I have both and the Up-Rise Pro is way better and is a super rad shoe. The Up Rise VCS feels a bit like you’re wearing a box it’s so tall. 

Jon Rust wrote:

Try reading?

"The UP equivalent doesn't hit point 2 well"

The up moc fits all of these requirements.

Rexford Nesakwatch wrote:

When you wrote that the NIAD is "weirdly off centered" do you mean asymmetrical, like longest closer to the big toe? Symmetrical vs asymmetrical is obviously foot dependent, but I like asymmetrical (like a Boostic) vs more symmetrical (Mythos, TC Pro).

Yeah, asymmetric rather than symmetric. I find it weird for my foot shape! (and harder to get into thin cracks!)

that guy named seb wrote:

The up moc fits all of these requirements.

Thanks for the suggestion! Is it less tall/bulky than the other UP shoes? I actually have the UP rise pros and find them still somewhat more bulky than I'd like, and not the same level of comfiness even after breaking in, as the anasazis.

Giles Eperon wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion! Is it less tall/bulky than the other UP shoes? I actually have the UP rise pros and find them still somewhat more bulky than I'd like, and not the same level of comfiness even after breaking in, as the anasazis.

Not sure but other people sure seem to like them. It's worth asking, are you sure you're not viewing things through rose tinted glasses as the rand on your anasazi has broken in/ you're used to jamming in them? Every shoe has a different geometry and it always takes a little bit of adjustment with how you inert your foot in the crack. People climb thin cracks in skwarmas and I've had a good time with solutions but have also found tc pro's to be a non issue provided I drop my heel and don't try and insert my big toe.

I can still find anasazi vcs's in a lot of online stores in the UK, can you not simply bulk buy them for a while?

Half size up Miura fits me well for what you are describing. 

I have wide feet and I used to use the Anasazi VCS quite a lot.  I personally think that Katana Lace is a good thin crack shoe, is stiffer, edges better, fits a wide foot, has better a heel, and is comfortable shoe when sized appropriately.  The Otaki is also fantastic shoe, is a wider fit, has a nice velcro closure.  It’s just not as stiff or as adjustable as the Katana Lace.