Ice Climbing in Semi-Automatic Crampons
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I’m currently shopping around for my first pair of mountaineering boots. Right now I’m looking more at boots without a toe-welt because of the low weight and cost. However, I’d also like to do some ice climbing and I’m wondering if this type of boot will do the job. What is your experience (if any) climbing vertical ice in semi-auto crampons, and would you recommend that system to a beginning ice climber? |
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The semi-auto part doesn't matter, plenty of people climb ice with a hybrid crampon. However, the softer boots without a toe welt don't climb ice as well and that can be your limiting factor with this set up. |
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B3 or full shank boots have the toe welt because the entire sole is rigid, reducing calf pump, and thus allowing the use of fully auto crampons because they can’t flex and pop the crampon off. If you are only ice, snow, and mixed climbing, get a full shank boot. If you plan to be doing more low angle glacier walks to summer alpine rock climbs, get the 3/4 shank boots.
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In terms of crampons if you want an all in one I would go with the Petzl Lynx |
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I wouldn’t recommend the Petzl Lynx in today’s market. Too heavy for what it offers. The only cool thing about it is it comes with both types of toe bails. The Petzl dart is far lighter and the semi auto toe bail can be bought (it’s not expensive) so you can use them with different boots. It doesn’t make sense to get a light boot and then put a heavy crampon on it. That being said, stiff boots make a world of difference for ice climbing and I would only use non full shank boots if ice climbing was a “seldom” activity. A good compromise is something like a LS Nepal Cube or Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro. |
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DeLa Cruce wrote: You re right of course, I recommend the lynx as an all around crampon. Better, specialized crampons exist. |
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One thing to keep in mind is boot and hybrid crampon compatibility - I tried ice climbing with my Petzl lynx in hybrid mode in a pair of LS Trango something or others, which had a very narrow toebox, and about halfway up the first pitch when I kicked the toe of the boot shifted up and through the gap in the hybrid front, so it contacted at the same time as the front point - basically, make sure there's no way your boot will fit through that space. As far as first pair of mountaineering boots, I've been very happy with LS Nepal Evos, just a good all-around boot. |
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I just picked up a new pair of Scarpa Phantom Techs. I have been climbing in the older orange and black phantom guides for several seasons now. I remember when I got them they were a game changer in terms of warmth and weight, and precision. They are still in great shape (check my posts - I am selling them, size 44...) The Tech's are insane - less bulk and weight, warmer, more precise. it is amazing what modern single boots can do. These phantom techs feel like summer alpine boots in weight and sleekness, yet they are full shank and warmer than the phantom guides.
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Fabien M wrote: I guess what I am saying is I would recommend the dart in the same space. When I think of “all around”, I’m thinking of a horizontal point crampon like a vasak or g12 or sabretooth. But for anything in the next category, i just don’t see a case where the lynx is a better choice. Even if you want to use a “too technical” crampon on easier stuff, the dart is still better. |
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DeLa Cruce wrote: Yes but you can use the Lynx with semi-automatic compatible crampons (OP question) without modification. Also, heavy is good for training :) |
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Fabien M wrote: If you didn't have heavy crampons would you still buy a pair? OP if you're thinking about ice climbing you need a full shank boot to do anything above easy. Semi auto poons work on ice but the fit must be perfect. |
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rocknice2 wrote: I own 4 pairs (all petzl, 2 vasak, 1 Lynx and 1 Dart) and I think they all have a place. |
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I choose the Lynx over the Darts as a better all-arounder because I spend a ton of time on WA glaciers and the extra point under the ball of the foot on the lynx is awesome for long low angle ice slogging in terms of stability and traction.
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Hey OP and DLC. Just weighed my son's Darts and my "too heavy" Lynxs. Similar setup on both, with monopoint and automatic toe bail. The weight difference for the pair was 4 ounce, or ~110 grams. Sorry, but the sausage mcmuffin I downed before my climb weighed me down a lot more than the addl 4 ounces of my crampons LOL. |
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Charles Iguana wrote: 110 grams on a long enough lever will move the world. Steve House switched to semi autos for the weight savings, which is probably a lot less than Darts vs Lynx. |
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J C wrote: Light is right |
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it can work just fine. heck Isa had an issue with her heel a few years ago that kept her out of her ice boots for a season. we tried several things including borrowing a bigger boot for her bad foot. part of the journey she wore her XC ski boots with aluminum mountaineering crampons. here she is leading Smuggs grade 3 in alpina XC boots and ultra light aluminum rigs. this this should please the light it right crowd. and following a multi pitch 4+ at lake Willoughby in the same set up Highly not recommended but it worked. I suspect that 3/4 shank boots with real steel crampons will work just fine ;) |
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Anyone use Sarkens for ice? |
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Ryan Eames wrote: I have, they work pretty well, low angle ice and alpine stuff, where there is a mix of snow and ice they are great. Not what i would choose for steep water ice though. |
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I led the Black dike In Sarkens they got recalled and I switched to something else but can't remember what? |
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ryan Smith wrote: Snagged a pair last year for my first season of ice climbing. Havent used them yet but plan on using them in a couple weeks! |