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Women’s Harness - Need suggestions

Original Post
Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,093

I’m struggling to find a new harness for sport/trad so am posting to see what I’m missing.

My requirements are:

  • 5 gear loops
  • Large gear loops
  • Adjustable leg loops

What harnesses are female guides / trad climbers wearing that are on the store shelves today?

From what I’ve found online and at REI, this seems to be the year of small gear loops!

I’m replacing a Black Diamond Lotus harness which I liked a lot but nothing in the Black Diamond lineup looks to be a comparable replacement. Lots of reviews about excessively small gear loops. I like to rack on my harness and need ample gear loop real estate. 

A Misty Mountain harness with an added gear loop is a possibility but they aren’t my favorite style. 

Rachel Crowl · · Youngstown, OH · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 115

I have found I really like the Petzl Luna. The back (middle?) gear loops aren't quite as large as I'd like but I find I can fit everything I need for multi-pitch trad on my harness and I never use a gear sling or sling over my chest to hold gear. I upgraded from a black diamond primrose primarily for comfort (I was getting bruises from the webbing on my leg loops) and can say it is definitely a much more comfortable harness. It also checks most of your boxes! It has 5 loops, the only ones I think are small are the middle/back ones on the sides but they really do work fine, and the leg loops are adjustable. 

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,093

Thank you, Rachel. I did look at the Petzl Luna harness, but those middle gear loops looked like they shrunk in the dryer! I assume they'll all be coming out with 2022 models soon so maybe I'll just wait to see what comes out. The harness I have is fine, except the back of the leg loops are starting to look ratty.

Kate Sedrowski · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Well, I'm going to be that person who suggests something that doesn't meet one of your requirements, haha, but I really love my Edelrid Solaris II harness! I'm an intermediate trad climber, so I still love to bring a ton of extra gear with me, and it's totally been able to handle that. (And the one review on that REI link mentions the great size of the gear loops.) Plus, it has a women's specific fit, so it's very adjustable and comfortable.

Here's a short review of the old version, which I had until I upgraded to this one, and it mentions that it's great for carrying tons of trad gear: https://www.climbing.com/gear/review-edelrid-solaris-harness/

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

My wife found the WC Mission/Session to be super comfy and holds a trad rack well. 

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 25

My Misty Mt has 6 gear loops, though I only use 4 for trad climbing. My only complaint is that it only has one belay loop. I also loved my Metolius SafeTech. I live outside of Joshua Tree so beefiness is really important to me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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