Typical Yosemite Anchor Bolt Spacing

Hi all,

I'm a climber from the UK and I'm thinking of coming to Yosemite next year, ideally to do some classic big walls. I know that anchors on 'trade routes' are normally two or three horizontal bolts, but I was wondering how far apart those typically are? Appreciate it's a bit of a silly question, but I've just been thinking a lot about different big wall anchor options recently and it struck me I wasn't really sure how far apart I expected the bolts to be. Before anyone worries that I'm totally incompetent, I'm perfectly happy setting up an anchor regardless of how far apart or what position the bolts are, it's just that I'm thinking I should do some practice on big wall anchor shenanigans before coming out to the US, so having an idea of what to typically expect would be handy/interesting at least.

Thanks,

Luke

For my anchor kit I carry a double length sling with four locking biners, in a Skots wall bag.

You usually will have two bolts about a foot and a half apart and then one other bolt that you haul from usually set a tad higher.

I carry my haul kit pre-threaded ont o a hall line so that I can just pop it on start hauling.

I have a second anchor kit that consists of a metolius belay anchor, similar to their PAS.

Either one of those works in almost any scenario.

Mark Hudon wrote:

That's the old school Spartan Yosemite belay and the way I did it forever but some of my newer climbing partners have a sport climbing background and they freak out if you don't have an equalized anchor.

They don't trust the clove hitch reasonably equalizes the bolts and so they cry like little girls.

A. B. wrote:

That's the old school Spartan Yosemite belay and the way I did it forever but some of my newer climbing partners have a sport climbing background and they freak out if you don't have an equalized anchor.

You shouldn’t listen to them.

Mark Hudon wrote:

You shouldn’t listen to them.

I think I may have one or two walls left in me, then I'm going to buy a motorcycle and explore the desert.  

A. B. wrote:

climbing partners have a sport climbing background and they freak out if you don't have an equalized anchor.

As Mark has frequently said- it’s not necessary.. 

but-

A tiny adjustment to that center butterfly knot and that anchor would also be equalized 

Quinn Hatfield wrote:

As Mark has frequently said- it’s not necessary.. 

but-

A tiny adjustment to that center butterfly knot and that anchor would also be equalized 

No, look at it, the middle and right bolts are as equalized as you’ll ever need. (Let’s not get into why you need to equalize two bolts worth about 8,000 pounds each to support a climber who doesn’t weigh 200 pounds) 

THE INSTRUCTOR FOR MY REI CLASS SAID THAT ANCHOR ISN’T SERENE!!! Won’t I surely die?

;)

It's nice when the bolts are well spread.

Here's an example when hauling two loads on the second ascent of Adrift on El Cap:

Green lead rope fixed and double fixed for jugging and cleaning, cleaner coming up on left side. 

Since we're above a ledge, Kong Block Roll hauling device directly on bolt not power point, to minimize haul line bend across ledge. Backed up to next bolt with Yates Screamer. Note 2:1 hauling ratchet in place, use clove hitch on Zed Cord on TWO ovals into belay loop on harness - this makes adjustment of length of Zed Cord much easier. 

Daisies strung horizontally between bolts for racking stuff. 

And the most important Dr. Piton Big Wall Belay Tip of all:

Beer stashed in glove for easy access, make sure can hole is on clipped-in uphill side of glove! Always stay properly hydrated.

And Christian ... the answer to that question is always the same:

YER GONNA DIE!!

Fell Over wrote:

Hi all,

I'm a climber from the UK and I'm thinking of coming to Yosemite next year, ideally to do some classic big walls. I know that anchors on 'trade routes' are normally two or three horizontal bolts, but I was wondering how far apart those typically are? Appreciate it's a bit of a silly question, but I've just been thinking a lot about different big wall anchor options recently and it struck me I wasn't really sure how far apart I expected the bolts to be. Before anyone worries that I'm totally incompetent, I'm perfectly happy setting up an anchor regardless of how far apart or what position the bolts are, it's just that I'm thinking I should do some practice on big wall anchor shenanigans before coming out to the US, so having an idea of what to typically expect would be handy/interesting at least.

Thanks,

Luke

Every belay is different as there's not really a standard that is followed by many of the FAists as they'll often create the anchor based upon the rock and the ledges. Some anchors will have 2 bolts 6" apart horizontally at eye level. Others might have 2 bolts offset and a couple feet apart and at the extent of your vertical reach. Other anchors might be a hodgepodge of 1/4" and 3/8" anchors spread out like buckshot. 

That said, if you're coming over to do the bigwall trade routes, you can generally expect that for the majority of the anchors you'll have at least two 3/8" bolts around 1' apart at about eye level (if there's a ledge)

A. B. wrote:

You usually will have two bolts about a foot and a half apart and then one other bolt that you haul from usually set a tad higher.

Thank you.

Thanks to everyone else - I was trying to reply individually, but as I'm a new user I have a post limit which didn't let me write two replies in the timeframe.

Kevin - Thanks for the info on the trade routes. I appreciate not all belays are the same and am happy with dealing with that when I find myself at a more unusual anchor.

Mark/Pete - Thanks for the useful pics.

Cheers from Monterrey Mexico, where I am turning into a sport climbing p*ssy.  :(

Peter Zabrok wrote:

Cheers from Monterrey Mexico, where I am turning into a sport climbing p*ssy.  :(

Could be worse, Pete.

I can think of more decadent pursuits than clipping bolts and free climbing in perfect temps but none we are more fortunate to get to do before the end.