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Flat lasted shoes like Anasazi Guide / Newtons??

Original Post
JF M · · NoCo · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,863

Looking for shoe recommendations:  flat lasted, not too pointy toed, all-day trad shoes.  I’m not climbing anything that needs aggressive shoes.  Ideally not the $190 TC pro High tops!
hit me with your suggestions… they keep discontinuing all the comfy models I like!

JFM 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Boreal ballet

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

The new Pinks, Acopa Legend

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

ebay
mercari
poshmark
Spend some time and you'll find the exact pair that you want, discontinued and cheap. A lot of times the seller's won't know what they have. So they might not be listed as climbing shoes, or the model might not be listed. I've seen "five ten onyx" as the shoe model for a fresh pair of huecos once.

If you want flat and stiff, check out the Butora Mantra. Can find returns or demo shoes on ebay for $40-60 at times.

score if you're a 5 mens: https://poshmark.com/listing/VINTAGE-Stealth-Five-Ten-510-Climbing-Shoes-Sz-5-60d91158180136efe70ee90d  lol

K L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

I recently got the UP Lace and I'm in love with them. They seem to be the old anasazi rebranded by UP

Robert T Hjerte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Tenaya Masia is as for me similar to the former 5.10 pinkies. The new adidas/5.10 rubber is …. as hard car tire rubber. The fit, rubber and material of the Tenaya Masia is similar to the old 5.10 pink.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363
Robert T Hjerte wrote:

Tenaya Masia is as for me similar to the former 5.10 pinkies. The new adidas/5.10 rubber is …. as hard car tire rubber. The fit, rubber and material of the Tenaya Masia is similar to the old 5.10 pink.

Hard as car rubber? I’ve got a few pair of new 5.10’s and haven’t noticed any change at all.   

Robert T Hjerte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Well I noticed as many do a difference in last and quality of the rubber. I changed also to the Up Lace –like Kyle Lewis– (probably more sticky then the old Pinks) in search of an alternative for my beloved Pinks, in the end I found Tenaya Masia the most similar to the old Pinks, qua last and rubber.

Wes Farrar · · DENVER, COLORADO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 40

Mad rock Phoenix. $80

JF M · · NoCo · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,863

The mad rock Phoenix are not bad, but definitely not flat like what I’m looking for.  I ordered some because of the low price, and they’ll do, but they do have a little down turn.


what’s the diff between Pinks and the more recent Anasazi guide 

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194

Mythos fit the bill. Used to climb a ton in them before switching to TC pros. 

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
K L wrote:

I recently got the UP Lace and I'm in love with them. They seem to be the old anasazi rebranded by UP

Correct - made in the same factory in SoCal with the same tooling and same rubber chemist at the helm.  Can't wait for mine to arrive.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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