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One Big Crash Pad or Two Regular Pads?

Original Post
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Questions: Planning to get back into bouldering this winter after a long hiatus. Do not have any pads currently, so would need to get a new pad setup. Is it better to get two "regular" size pads, or one "big" pad? What would offer the best usability, versatility, value, etc.

Details:

- Live in Sacramento and would likely be bouldering locally at Vacaville, Tahoe, Columbia, plus trips to Bishop.

- Would mostly be bouldering with my girlfriend, but sometimes solo or with other partners. 

- Want a setup that would be enough coverage to do a reasonable range of problems. One regular size pad has never felt like enough, hence wanting more coverage, either from a big pad or two regular pads.

- Cost is not a huge issue. Don't want to spend a crazy amount, but an extra $50-$100 to get a setup I really like is fine.

- Open to suggestions on brand and model. Possibly Organic, or maybe a Metolius trifold pad.

- Would maybe consider getting one big pad and eventually supplementing with a regular pad, but don't want to do quite that big an investment up front.

Raz Bob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I used to have a couple of smaller pads, but upgraded recently to a (used) BD Mondo. A pretty big pad! Really happy w that setup. Partly convince, it is simply nicer to lug around a single pad rather than several and secondly I find myself feeling safer when bouldering alone with a big fat pad with no possibility of sliding apart creating possible ankle breaking situations (with no spotters to assist). 

Downside is the inability to protect weird landings, like long traverses etc, but with a spotter that isn't a problem. 

Ive been much happier w one large quality pad over two normal/budget ones. As you say, if you upgrade you have both. 

Prav C · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 124

I use a BD Mondo and a regular size Organic that I strap onto the back. It's heavy and awkward but I appreciate all the padding. Like the poster above, I appreciate the extra landing space of the Mondo, but having a second pad is useful especially if the landing is uneven or there are small boulders near the landing zone.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

A nice main pad (regular or big organic or similar quality) + auxillary pads (blubber, half pad, etc) is usually more versatile than 2 regular pads.

Alek Fredriksson · · Columbia, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 969

I love my Organic 5x4 paired with an organic half pad, but I also like my two madrock MadPads that can velcro together. The two Mad Pads are definitely cheaper price-wise. So I guess it's not one big pad vs 2 normal exactly, but for what's it's worth, a very big pad plus a little one offers good versatility for landings.

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Organic Big 4 + Blubber is my setup with their load flap to carry Blubber. Blubber very useful beyond climbing - yoga, tent, pickup, beach/lawn, etc.  The Big 4 at 4x5 is a lot bigger than a 3x4 pad.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Jay Anderson wrote:

Organic Big 4 + Blubber is my setup with their load flap to carry Blubber. Blubber very useful beyond climbing - yoga, tent, pickup, beach/lawn, etc.  The Big 4 at 4x5 is a lot bigger than a 3x4 pad.

This sounds appealing and versatile. How do you use the blubber when climbing? I've mainly seen it used as a gap-cover top layer over a pad stack, and it's great for that. But for solo bouldering (with just the big pad and blubber) is it as useful?

Dan Schmidt · · Eugene, OR · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 349

For Tahoe I use 2x Big Pads + blubber with the load strap. A lot of stuff would be sketchy af solo with just one pad. I also feel like I go straight through the small pads from 10ft up and above (I’m ~180lbs).

… Or just be really good at top outs, I guess?

The blubber is pretty versatile btw. Besides covering cracks between pads, it can be used as a sit start pad, to cover odd bits, and/or folded to provide more protection. Love it. 

tobias bundle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 118

I agree a 4” pad from ten feet up your feet are going to kiss ground though the pad. Especially cheaper softer pads.
And from high up a regular sized pad starts to look very small, very quickly.
I wouldn’t expect either setups to well protect anything higher than 15’
A lot of what will work depends on the area.
I would probably go two pads for the versatility.  But … a big pad is really nice.

The upgraded carry system on the organic pads is nice. 

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
JCM wrote:

This sounds appealing and versatile. How do you use the blubber when climbing? I've mainly seen it used as a gap-cover top layer over a pad stack, and it's great for that. But for solo bouldering (with just the big pad and blubber) is it as useful?

I use Blubber for logs/stumps/trees.  I traverse a lot so use it next to big pad for some coverage of big space - covers nasty rocks in landing areas and provides more covered space to keep shoes out of dirt.  Can fold in half or quarters for 2" or 4" for sit start or next to real pad.

JM Addleman · · Mammy · Joined May 2015 · Points: 27

I like two for versatility and cost, one day I’ll probably get a Big Pad. For now an Organic Full, Moon Pluto and shortstop is working and carries well. Stack em up for a highball, spread em out for a traverse. Big pads are nice but most of the boulders where I’m climbing in bishop already have a few at the base ;)

Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 155

I was in your predicament for a while but ended up settling on 2 smaller pads and i'm happy with the decision. The simple reason is 2 pads is more versatile than 1 large pad in a bunch of ways. You can arrange them better in tighter or weird landing zones, stack them, or if you're just doing a quick solo session on nothing too sketchy, you can just bring one and you don't have to lug around a huge heavy one. I think the best of both worlds would be 2 organic full/simple pads + 1 blubber pad for filling in the gaps, and adding a little extra thickness for high balls when needed. 

Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I like two simple lightweight pads. Two small pads (BD circuit, 16lbs total) are lighter than most big pads, easier to carry IMO, and more versatile. When I'm bouldering by myself I strongly prefer two pads. If it's a highball that doesn't traverse I sometimes stack the pads, which is more cushion than a big pad would be. 

It is awesome when someone in the group has a huge pad. They are really nice to have in the mix, so long as I am not the one that has too store/transport/carry them. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Follow up from OP: decided to go big, and got the 5" Organic Big Pad.  Only have one day on it so far (this past Sunday), but quite happy with it. 

And it's bright orange!

Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions! Based on advice here, in the future may consider getting a Simple or Blubber to supplement. For now, though, Big Orange will do.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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