Best pack for multi pitch.

I’m planing on hitting Red Rocks and J-Tree hard this Fall/Winter. Every bag I’ve brought up a climb with me seems to get ripped to shreds!

What are you guys using to carry your essentials up a multi? And by essentials I mean snacks, a layer, approach shoes, .5 liter or more water, a beanie, headlamp, tape etc… I think up to about 18l capacity is large enough.

I’ve been looking at the Petzl Bug, and the Leprechaun pack by Imlay Canyon Designs, a cross over from the Canyoneering world.

TIA

I used the BD Blitz 20 as a climbing pack for the last few years. It held up well to a lot of abuse, and worked great for climbing. Super light, no frills. i don’t like carrying a pack in my bigger pack, and the blitz wasn’t big enough to carry stuff to the climb.

just started using a DB Speed 22. I like it so far. It has a few more “features” than I want (and will probably cut off). It’s just big enough to carry to the crag, while small enough to take up the wall. It barely fits a rack, layer, food/water, harness etc and has straps to keep the rope on the outside without flopping. Feels okay to hike with full, climbs pretty well, isn’t exceptional for either, but so far has been a good compromise for doing everything. I’ve not used it long enough to know, but seems pretty durable while still being lightweight.

canyon packs are often vinyl, and pretty bulky/heavy. I wouldn’t trade the amount of weight for durability.  (I used the blitz canyoneering quite a bit, and it held up to that abuse better than expected.) if hauling your pack the vinyl could be nice, but at that point you might as well go to a small haul bag. 

All of the stuff you listed can be hung from your harness! Get a stuffable jacket and stick the beanie in there. Snacks in pockets and in the approach shoes. Headlamp and tape can go on a carabiner or into the pocket on the chalk bag.  Clip the shoes, jacket, water bottle to the harness and have a good time!

You’ll never go back to climbing with a pack!

I would highly suggest anything from Mystery Ranch or  Misty Mountain. They have some incredibly durable packs, made in USA, etc. that would definitely work. 

Mike, there's a long thread here with lots of good info: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117348410/best-pack-for-multipitch

I've used the Blitz 20 (great but not super burly), Linked 18 (pretty good), and Tufa Mochilla (great).  There are a bunch of other great options out there too.

Jack Lange wrote:

All of the stuff you listed can be hung from your harness! Get a stuffable jacket and stick the beanie in there. Snacks in pockets and in the approach shoes. Headlamp and tape can go on a carabiner or into the pocket on the chalk bag.  Clip the shoes, jacket, water bottle to the harness and have a good time!

You’ll never go back to climbing with a pack!

this! I can't think of a single route in RR that would require a pack on route.

jcs

jackscoldsweat wrote:

this! I can't think of a single route in RR that would require a pack on route.

How about Black Orpheus, a 1500 foot route with a fairly long walk-off?  Or something like Inti Watana, where every single picture on MP shows the follower carrying a backpack?  Or any number of other long routes with a descent that goes elsewhere.

"I don't carry a pack on multipitch!" is such a weird flex.

I don't like to clip everything on my harness so I carry a small pack as well.
18 to 20 liters is plenty big enough for multiptich I think.
I personally use a Exped Mountain Pro 20 which I like a lot but many others could do the job.

Deuter Speed Lite 24 is a great all around pack. Good size for approach/walkoff, small and trim enough for climbing, versatility via attachments/accessories (tool holders, daisy chains, straps, belt, etc.) is top-notch, and 100 denier fabric is fairly tough. And it's lightweight for a framed jobbie. I recommend.

Somebody just listed a BD Creek 20 on this forum. It’s my go to multi pitch pack. Very durable. 

Mountain Hardwear Multi Pitch 20! Can confirm it is badass and on sale! https://www.mountainhardwear.com/p/multi-pitch-20-backpack-1854011_S.html?dwvar_1854011__S_color=684&dwvar_1854011__S_size=R&&mid=paidsearch&eid=Google+PLA+US&nid=1674133143&oid=60430452410&did=&s_kwcid=AL!3937!3!351071027510!!!u!!&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cE7HkVis3lsAcOkWMdA7J3OiHZYcRNYfHHEnzCNjIQH1V74xlHLriUaAr3PEALw_wcB

I use the Bug. Super nice little pack, the addition of the rope strap makes it clutch for tons of stuff. I actually use it for cragging with a double rack (helmet and rope on top, shoes on the rear daisy chain). The padded back is especially nice for, well, padding your back from the pokey stuff inside. Stowable waist belt is nice, too. Petzl wants me to think I can stow the backpack straps for hauling, but I'm not convinced. I also can't imagine hauling a pack like that except maybe through a chimney here and there, in which case I'd probably just have my follower extend the pack underneath their harness.

I've used some minimalist packs as well (picked up a Trango one at a thrift shop once) and they're okay, certainly usable. Bug hits all the right notes for a lot of stuff, though.

I have done most of my multi pitches with an REI Flash 22.  However, I also got a couple of Platypus clip-on water bottles and sometimes just clip those and my approach shoes to the back of my harness and stuff my pockets with caffeinated Clif Bars

The Black diamond Rock blitz is very durable and inexpensive. It is more than sufficient for a multi-pitch climb, and it rides very well on the back. I usually don't even notice it's there when I'm leading. 

Kyle Tarry wrote:

How about Black Orpheus, a 1500 foot route with a fairly long walk-off?  Or something like Inti Watana, where every single picture on MP shows the follower carrying a backpack?  Or any number of other long routes with a descent that goes elsewhere.

"I don't carry a pack on multipitch!" is such a weird flex.

Flexing? What? I make a suggestion which would undoubtedly improve their experience, and you get the impression i'm bragging?

Here' a flex for ya Kylie. Black O, Inti Watana, Mt Wilson's Dogma, etc..etc...has been done by hundreds if not thousands of others without a pack. Just not by you and apparently others who shove their thumbs up like sheep.

If one hydrates properly (24 hrs. prior) and is in decent shape (like able to walk 5 miles a couple times a week. Maybe hit the gym a few times a month.) you'll be fine with a few liters and a couple bars on route while climbing Black O and the like.

I'll give you another one of your so called 'flexes'. Try studying what it is that separates you from those who don't need a pack on these same routes. Just because you see it in a pic or a thousand pics, doesn't mean they're doing it in the most efficient, quick, safest, or enjoyable manner.

jcs

Edit: Hey Kyren, how about you meet me in RR in Nov. DM me and I'll give you the dates. I'll show you the 'weirding'  way? ( You see that? You see how i did that? Hmm...no you probably didn't.)

jackscoldsweat wrote: If one hydrates properly (24 hrs. prior) and is in decent shape (like able to walk 5 miles a couple times a week. Maybe hit the gym a few times a month.) you'll be fine with a few liters and a couple bars on route while climbing Black O and the like.

So what's your system for hanging 3 liters of water on your harness along with approach shoes and a double rack? Cause that sounds no fun to me, but if you are actually doing it I want your secrets.

I feel like anything I can climb 1500' of in good style, I could also climb with a tiny backpack and much more comfort. I'm biased as a rope soloist, because I backpack the rope on lead. So with a partner my pack weighs less than it does at the start of a pitch when rope solo leading. That basically means between having a lighter pack and a real belayer I just don't notice the pack. 

jackscoldsweat wrote:

Flexing? What? I make a suggestion which would undoubtedly improve their experience, and you get the impression i'm bragging?

Here' a flex for ya Kylie. Black O, Inti Watana, Mt Wilson's Dogma, etc..etc...has been done by hundreds if not thousands of others without a pack. Just not by you and apparently others who shove their thumbs up like sheep.

If one hydrates properly (24 hrs. prior) and is in decent shape (like able to walk 5 miles a couple times a week. Maybe hit the gym a few times a month.) you'll be fine with a few liters and a couple bars on route while climbing Black O and the like.

I'll give you another one of your so called 'flexes'. Try studying what it is that separates you from those who don't need a pack on these same routes. Just because you see it in a pic or a thousand pics, doesn't mean they're doing it in the most efficient, quick, safest, or enjoyable manner.

jcs

Edit: Hey Kyren, how about you meet me in RR in Nov. DM me and I'll give you the dates. I'll show you the 'weirding'  way? ( You see that? You see how i did that? Hmm...no you probably didn't.)

jesus dude, some people like bringing a backpack for their jacket and their snackies, eat an edible and go touch grass

Honestly i've never carried more than 2 litters while on any route in RR. I use at most two Gatorade bottles (filled with water) clipped to my harness using a 2-3 mm cord clovehitched to the bottle's 'lip' just below the thread. Most times clipped using a super light tiny cheap not-for-climbing krab. These two plus a double rack, bars, decent shoes, jacket (houdini?), all items clipped to your harness which is on your hips. Right above your bodies strongest muscle group.

A climbing pack kypes your upper body's strength. it ebbs away at the power needed for the days last pitch .11 move. The shoulders, lats, back muscles are all inferior to your bodies chassis (legs). Small climbing packs rest on your shoulders. This also impedes your movement making climbing more difficult. The pack is always pulling you away from the rock. You want your hips closest to the rock right? Arms as straight as possible right? Hanging off your bones? Weight transferred over your feet? Right? So lose the pack and put the weight over your legs!

As for rope solo, thats a different game. I personally use a snake charmer, slip knots. Anything to keep the weight off my shoulders.

Be sure to be hydrated well before your climb. Like 24 hours before! While hiking in, i drink a liter of agua . I crush the rest of this approach liter at the base before launching. Leaving the pack at the base with another liter for sipping on the way back out.

been using this method for 20 + when climbing at RR and similar crags. hope it helps.

jcs

You’re just chasing that semi-orgasmic feeling of taking off a heavy harness at the end of the day, aren’t you?

jackscoldsweat wrote:

If one...is in decent shape (like able to walk 5 miles a couple times a week. Maybe hit the gym a few times a month.) you'll be fine with a few liters and a couple bars on route while climbing Black O and the like.

You're suggesting that a 12 oz backpack is too much to carry up a Red Rocks moderate, are you sure you should be lecturing everyone to "hit the gym"?   

Kyle Tarry wrote:

You're suggesting that a 12 oz backpack is too much to carry up a Red Rocks moderate, are you sure you should be lecturing everyone to "hit the gym"?   

I'm with him, if you can, leave the pack. The stuff on your harness can be moved from one side to the other and is less likely to hang up in chimneys and offwidths. Packs are fine, but clipping things off is better for most things. If it's cold and you're taking a puffy coat, a pack is sweet as you can get it in and out quick. If you have a pack inside of the Epinephrine chimneys not so much. I think Black Orpheus has a section where you'd be hating on it as well. In olden days, climbers would drop the pack off via sling hanging off their tie in loop with a runner or 2, which sucks in it's own special way, but sometimes not as much as leaving it on your back in a chimney. 

I have a chalk bag dedicated to a Mount Hardware Hooded Ghost Whisperer and there is tp, a knife, a mini-bic lighter, a light wind breaker, at least one maybe 2 headlamps and usually a snack in it, but it takes longer to put the coat on vs a pack, and you don't want to be wasting time on long routes doing routine things like tucking your coat in and out of a pack. Even just 5 extra min per belay change over on a 10 pitch routes is about an extra hour you'll be up there. So I'd drag that up a route if I thought I could belay with out a coat but might need one. Having a partner who climbs fast is a good thing too. But do what works for you. 

Cilogear makes some great packs.