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ATC rappelling

Original Post
Adam Larkin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 5

Is it ok to hook up an ATC like this to increase friction on a rappel

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

No. Use a hollow block or a prusic. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Why not? There are several configurations of Z-rappels set up in a similar manner. Test it at your home crag.

That particular setup looks like it may have too much friction, but try it out.

Edit: It would prematurely wear out the ridge separating the two rope slots, so keep an eye on that.

slo ta · · ABQ · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 154

Use two biners, which is what black diamond would recommend. They would probably not recommend whatever is going on there.

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

You will have more luck and ease by adding additional lockers for a higher friction. You are not going to die with your configuration, but I suspect you will be in pig tail hell on the next belay.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

As an alternative to using two lockers (the preferred approach IMO), you could redirect the BRAKE strand (maybe through a biner on your leg loop) rather than the load strand as you are showing here (which looks like it has the potential to strip the sheath off the rope).

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Adam Larkin wrote:

Is it ok to hook up an ATC like this to increase friction on a rappel

How often do you rap on a single strand?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

I do a lot, nearly all the time in fact. Free-hanging (and being fat) on a single 9mm I just take a wrap around the biner.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

This looks like a bad idea to me for two reasons. (1) Probably way too much friction unless the rope is very thin. (2) Excessive wear to the sheath from dragging a loaded rope over a relatively sharp edge.

Offhand, I can think of six different ways of increasing friction (not counting doubling up the device or any type of body wrap).  Some of these have to be instituted before the rappel starts, others can be deployed while on rappel. Any one of them is better than the proposed hack.

  1. Double carabiners on rap device.
  2. Brake strand redirected through carabiner on leg loop.
  3. Z-rig: brake strand runs down to carabiner on leg loop, up to carabiner on rap device, down to brake hand.  Best to be using an extended rappel and have the lower carabiner on harness belay loop rather than leg loop.  This extends #2.
  4. Extra twist(s) around spine of rap device carabiner.
  5. Carabiner crossbar, Push brake strand bight through rap device carabiner, clip a second carabiner to bight and orient so spine bears the load.
  6. Plaquette trick: you need to be using a guide-type device for this.  Clip the hole used for suspending the device when used in guide mode back to rap device attachment point.  This tilts the device back and adds friction.

I think everyone should know a method they can deploy while on rappel in case they discover after starting that they aren't getting enough friction.  Number 3 seems to me to be the best for this; Number 5 works too, as does Number 6, if you are using a guide-type plaquette, with a little effort.

soft crux · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Please post a video of your attempt. I would be amazed if you could move at all with that setup.

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

This is how I was taught to rig a super skinny line (Petzl Rad) for a single strand rappel on an AMGA course and have practiced with both this and a super munter.  I think the new super skinny lines are a special case and would add friction with one of the other methods already mentioned if I were using a typical size rope.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

But there’s tiny ATCs now for skinny lines

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

What is going on with that bike in the bg 

Ben Crowell · · Fullerton · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 331

You would probably get answers that were more helpful to you if you explained more about why you want to do this.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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