|
C H
·
Oct 16, 2021
·
Colorado
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 0
Hey, looking at getting some double ropes. My current ones are about 15 years old. Thinking of going with 70 meters each. Considering the following: Beal Ice Line 8.1: 39 grams a meter, looks solid. Very low impact force. A little stretchy, but don't fall on ice I guess. Beal Gully 7.3: Superlight at 36 grams a meter. Seems best for glaciers though Edelweiss Elite 7.8: weight good at 39 grams a meter. Looks well built. Mammut Alpine Dry 8.0: heavier at 42 grams a meter and higher impact force at 6.2 kN Mammut 7 Alpine Sender 7.5: 38 grams a meter, but higher impact force at 6.2 kN BD 7.9: good weight at 39 grams a meter. Anyone have experience with these or recommendations?
|
|
Eric Demo
·
Oct 22, 2021
·
Cedar Park
· Joined Nov 2017
· Points: 20
i have the BD 7.9 and like them. they get used 3 or 4 times a year on trips when im doing multipitch trad; yosemite, gunks, red rocks, etc. ive had them about 2 years and they probably have 100 pitches on them max, so theyre not exactly beaten up yet. just now starting to show some fuzziness, but nothing out of the ordinary. they are light weight, and generally dont kink up. ive never used any other double ropes to compare against but ive been happy with my choice. i fell on a single rope while following once and there was a ton of stretch but i expected there would be. still havent taken a lead fall on them but i wouldnt be afraid to.
|
|
Daniel Joder
·
Oct 22, 2021
·
Barcelona, ES
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
Your use of doubles and my use may not be the same, of course, but… I chopped mine down to 50m each and I really like the improved manageability, smaller package, and lighter weight. Rappels around here very rarely exceed 50m and very few pitches exceed that distance either. Other friends have kept theirs at 60m. So YMMV. Do you need really the full 70m for some reason?
|
|
Rob Worrell
·
Nov 9, 2021
·
Avon, CO
· Joined Dec 2019
· Points: 15
I have both the Beal Gullys and mammut 7.5. Both work well and seem to be durable. No issues or complaints. Cheers
|
|
Christopher Smith
·
Nov 9, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 0
I have the BD 7.8 (I think the 7.9 replaced them). Handle great and the dry coating had lasted quite a while.
|
|
Jake woo
·
Nov 9, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 2
I have Beal Icelines. They got a solid season of ice and looked brand new at the end of it. Golden dry was lovely. They were stiff out of the package, but loosened up just fine. Stretchy to fall on them while following. Pretty sure you'll take a nice ride on them if you fall on lead, but they'll keep you attached to the mountain. After using them for a few outing on rock you can see the fuzziness beginning, but i'll bet the dry cover still works once back on ice. I would happily buy these again.
|
|
Strings Attached
·
Nov 9, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2021
· Points: 0
Double-check the Beal's grams per meter if that is actually a big factor in your decision. Mine were way higher than spec. I used 2 very good scales and measured for extra rope length. This was years ago, so maybe not an issue. Not sure if it is common. It was still a good rope.
|
|
dave custer
·
Nov 9, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 2,873
I have no complaints about the BD 7.9. Nor with the predecessor to the Mammut Alpine Sender. Also happy with the Sterling and Blue Water skinny ropes. I won't get double 70 meter ropes again; just too much to carry, too much tangle snafu, and too much rope drag/weight when climbing. I climb with a partner who has 50s and have never had an issue coming up short; less rope makes for less mess and frustration with rope management. I keep getting 60s because sometimes I bring one of them along for rappelling when I lead on a 60 m single rope.
|
|
Mark Pilate
·
Nov 10, 2021
·
MN
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 25
Exactly. Why would you ever get 70m doubles? You’re splitting minor hairs on the brand or specific model, but I can’t see any advantage of 70’s for doubles. Unless you have a specific objective in mind, If you want to go light and effective with doubles and look like a true cognoscenti, get the thinnest lightest 40’s you can (or at least 50s if you don’t want to be so edgy)
|
|
Zach L
·
Nov 10, 2021
·
Northern Vermont
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 10
70m halfs are great at some ice climbing venues such as Lake Willoughby. Being able to rap from the top in one or two raps instead of coming up short and having to thread is quite nice...
|
|
Greg Sidberry
·
Nov 10, 2021
·
High Desert, CA
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 1,353
Beal rando is one of my favorite doubles.
|
|
Linnaeus
·
Nov 10, 2021
·
ID
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 0
If your ropes are still in good shape I wouldn’t retire them based on age alone. The DAV has looked into old ropes and they just as strong as new if the condition is equal. That said I have been happy with Beal Ice lines, Mammut Phoenix + other double models, Bluewater Excellence, and Sterling Photons. I value durability over g/m and so far these have all been pretty good.
|