Huge progress after training like Magnus Midtbø for an intense 30 days (but also a big downside to training this way)

I'm an intermediate climber and I've never trained before. I decided to do the 4 exercises that Magnus Midtbø explains in one of his video's for 30 days. I'd like to share my thoughts and progress. I also made a video explaining everything here: youtube.com/watch?v=j5euTNEBE5g&

His training consists of 4 exercises:
speed campussing for power, lock offs for strength, 2 minute circuits for power endurance and staying on the wall for 30 minutes for aerobic endurance.I made huge progress (see below), especially in terms of endurance. This makes sense, because power takes a lot longer to develop (also, I'm primarily a boulderer and have terrible endurance).

Despite the gains, I wouldn't really recommend this training. I got close to an injury due to overtraining, and I also found it to be incredibly boring. This type of training would probably suit more advanced climbers better. For me, technique drills make much more sense right now 

I tried to be as structured as possible:
Week 0: physical assessment, a gym climb as a benchmark, and a self evaluation to measure my baseline.
Week 1 - 4:
- Strength and Power every Wednesday (morning) and Saturday.
- Power Endurance every Friday and Sunday.
- Aerobic Endurance every Monday and Wednesday (evening).
Week 5: deload week, 3 easy climbing sessions but mostly rest days.
Week 6: redid everything from week 0 to measure progress, and also tried an 8a for the first time.

The progress, week 1 vs week 6:
From 12 pull ups to 15 (+25%)
From 28 seconds to 33 on max hang time / continuous hang on 20mm edge (+18%)
From 117 seconds to 155 when doing 7/3 repeaters on 20mm edge (+32%)
From 19kg to 20 max hang on 20mm edge (+5%)
From 34kg to 38 single weighted pull up (+12)
From 46 moves in 2 minutes to 60 on my home wall (different circuits in different weeks, +30%)
From 2/3 of a round on a big circuit at my local climbing gym to 2 full rounds (+300%)
Speed campussing increased speed by 60% on same route

Difference on a climb (video analysis): negligible. I climbed a little bit faster, but didn't feel effects of stronger fingers or better endurance.
Self evaluation: improved physically, but mentally very weak due to overtraining and bad news from the doctor about a hip issue (they recommended I quit climbing all together). It was really hard to focus while climbing.

So all in all, lots of progress physically, but quite boring and too intense for me. Glad I tried it, but now I need to focus on something else. Let me know if you have any questions! And if you have any tips or experience on how to climb with bad hips, I'd love to hear from you!

Amir Nickname wrote:

I'm an intermediate climber and I've never trained before. I decided to do the 4 exercises that Magnus Midtbø explains in one of his video's for 30 days. I'd like to share my thoughts and progress. I also made a video explaining everything here: youtube.com/watch?v=j5euTNEBE5g&

His training consists of 4 exercises:
speed campussing for power, lock offs for strength, 2 minute circuits for power endurance and staying on the wall for 30 minutes for aerobic endurance.I made huge progress (see below), especially in terms of endurance. This makes sense, because power takes a lot longer to develop (also, I'm primarily a boulderer and have terrible endurance).

Despite the gains, I wouldn't really recommend this training. I got close to an injury due to overtraining, and I also found it to be incredibly boring. This type of training would probably suit more advanced climbers better. For me, technique drills make much more sense right now 

I tried to be as structured as possible:
Week 0: physical assessment, a gym climb as a benchmark, and a self evaluation to measure my baseline.
Week 1 - 4:
- Strength and Power every Wednesday (morning) and Saturday.
- Power Endurance every Friday and Sunday.
- Aerobic Endurance every Monday and Wednesday (evening).
Week 5: deload week, 3 easy climbing sessions but mostly rest days.
Week 6: redid everything from week 0 to measure progress, and also tried an 8a for the first time.

The progress, week 1 vs week 6:
From 12 pull ups to 15 (+25%)
From 28 seconds to 33 on max hang time / continuous hang on 20mm edge (+18%)
From 117 seconds to 155 when doing 7/3 repeaters on 20mm edge (+32%)
From 19kg to 20 max hang on 20mm edge (+5%)
From 34kg to 38 single weighted pull up (+12)
From 46 moves in 2 minutes to 60 on my home wall (different circuits in different weeks, +30%)
From 2/3 of a round on a big circuit at my local climbing gym to 2 full rounds (+300%)
Speed campussing increased speed by 60% on same route

Difference on a climb (video analysis): negligible. I climbed a little bit faster, but didn't feel effects of stronger fingers or better endurance.
Self evaluation: improved physically, but mentally very weak due to overtraining and bad news from the doctor about a hip issue (they recommended I quit climbing all together). It was really hard to focus while climbing.

So all in all, lots of progress physically, but quite boring and too intense for me. Glad I tried it, but now I need to focus on something else. Let me know if you have any questions! And if you have any tips or experience on how to climb with bad hips, I'd love to hear from you!

I think you sum up nicely why people shouldn't blindly follow "pro" workout routines. 

One size never fits all in training, most of us are going to need more injury prevention than those genetically gifted freaks.

Hope your hip turns out ok, do lots of PT frequently for it. Was that your training injury? It sounds like you were training 5 days a week and doubling on Wednesday for 6 sessions a week, that’s not nearly enough recovery by any plan I’ve seen and if you haven’t trained before no wonder you got hurt. Try training 1-2 times per week and be consistent, don’t sacrifice the climbing you like to do. Think in terms of 4 years not 4 weeks. 

It’s pretty well established that you will see quick gains from high intensity training but they are not sustainable.

While it focuses on alpine climbing “Training For The New Alpinism” is a great bench reference for training structure.

JM Addleman wrote:

Hope your hip turns out ok, do lots of PT frequently for it. Was that your training injury? It sounds like you were training 5 days a week and doubling on Wednesday for 6 sessions a week, that’s not nearly enough recovery by any plan I’ve seen and if you haven’t trained before no wonder you got hurt. Try training 1-2 times per week and be consistent, don’t sacrifice the climbing you like to do. Think in terms of 4 years not 4 weeks. 

No I got close to injury in my shoulder and forearm (FDP) with this training... but the hips unfortunately is something else entirely. I've been told I have a bone deformity (FAI) in my hips, that has caused damage to the joint. Apparently, there's so much damage that they can't fix it... So yeah, kinda sucks :-/
But I'm searching for options as we speak. Two doctors (specialists) recommended I quit climbing immediately, which hurt... A third one (with more experience in young athletic people) recommended I keep climbing but adapt my style. So that's my goal!

Amir Nickname wrote:

No I got close to injury in my shoulder and forearm (FDP) with this training... but the hips unfortunately is something else entirely. I've been told I have a bone deformity (FAI) in my hips, that has caused damage to the joint. Apparently, there's so much damage that they can't fix it... So yeah, kinda sucks :-/
But I'm searching for options as we speak. Two doctors (specialists) recommended I quit climbing immediately, which hurt... A third one (with more experience in young athletic people) recommended I keep climbing but adapt my style. So that's my goal!

Yeah that does suck, sorry man. Sounds like you’ve got the right attitude, when docs say the average person won’t recover don’t be that average person, go above and beyond! And when you’re ready to train again think about easing into it, starting with a couple days a week for a month or two and see how the body adapts. If it’s clear you need more load to make adaptations then up the training gradually making sure you have enough recovery for really high quality work during those sessions. I herniated a disc in my back and they wanted surgery too (which I’m glad I didn’t), I did have to stop climbing for a while but now I’m back on the rock and there’s no better feeling. Put in the work and you have the foundation to be stronger than ever.