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Best Shoes for Flatirons Running + Soloing?

Original Post
Matt Gowie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

Looking for recommendations for trail runners that do well on scrambling rock as well as trail and pavement (least important). I've primarily soloed in the flatirons on rock shoes, but I'd like to start running to the bases and continuing from there. I've been a big fan of my La Sportiva trail runners in the past, but recently picked up a pair of Hoka's and I wouldn't take them out on rock. Figured I should ask as there may be a pair of trail runners that are highly suggested similar to the way most folks would suggest TC Pros for crack climbing. 

Any suggestions appreciated -- Thanks folks. 

Will Finley · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 20

Honestly I use my Salomon speed cross for this exact thing. Might not be popular opinion but have freed up to 5.4 in them. The rubber grips well. 

Annie Climbs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 52

La spo tx guide or tx3 are probably best for this. Both are so-so at best for running but as good of a hybrid rubber/climber as exists on the market. Other good option is to get your trail runners resoled with sticky rubber at Rock and Resole.

There are no trail runners on the market with sticky rubber. Shoes like the La Sportiva Mutant or Cyklon have soft rubber for a trail runner, but it’s significantly less sticky and optimized for rock climbing than approach shoe rubber. The lugs are also large and squishy and not optimized for rock. A lot of trail runners have vibram megagrip rubber, but to be clear there are two different types of megagrip and this kind is not sticky (megagrip traverse is the sticky one). I know several folks who solo the flatirons in these types of trail runners regardless, but I don’t recommend it. Suppose it all depends on your risk tolerance, confidence, and how far you want to push the envelope.

I think there’s several MP threads about this you can find with a quick search. 

Doctor Choss · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 5

I have Mutants, TX4's and TX Guides. I was turned onto the mutants by several friends who have a TON of mileage in the flatties. I did the 2nd and 3rd in them and didn't love them at the top of the 3rd...felt a bit sketch for me downclimbing from the top to the notch where the mellow-ish descent is.

I swear by the TX Guides for scrambling. Feel good on the 1st in them and they give me a lot of extra confidence over the mutants, especially on the slabby stuff down low. Downside being that the trail running back is a bit painful at times and this is where the mutants shine. 

For climbing above 5.4 I prefer the TX Guides. For speed and easy climbing below 5.4 the mutants do well.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

Depends on the shape of your feet.
Wide, narrow, big arches?
There are a ton of choices, including re-soling your trail shoes in sticky rubber at Rock & Resole.

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

I like the TX Guide Leathers a lot. I haven’t personally ran in them but love them for everything else

MauryB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 393

Tx Guide climb well but are clunky for running, and have a narrowish forefoot. Tx3/4 are worse for both but the 4s are quite durable, and have a roomy forefoot.

There are plenty of running shoes now with Megagrip, which I certainly consider sticky and will climb as difficult as you are comfortable. Like Tony said it depends on your foot shape and preference. I have moderately wide feet and prefer to be closer to the surface with minimal (< 6mm) drop, so my top picks are the Scarpa Spin 2.0 and the Arcteryx Norvan SL. For missions where I'm clipping shoes to my harness and there isn't much rugged terrain necessitating foot protecting from talus etc, you can't beat the 6 oz Arc shoes - I've covered 20 mile linkup days in them, and with the nonabsorbent nature of the mesh construction you swap socks off during snow/river crossing and dry back out really fast on the go.

Or as others have said you can get them resoled. IMO Bushidos with dot rubber on the front half are the best all arounder you'll get, albeit it with some weight penalty. They run well, climb great, and have a plastic instep that is super comfy in aiders. 

Dan Dan · · Canada · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Depending on the mission, I oftentimes carry my approach shoes with me and start out the day with running shoes on. 

As I get more familiar with the rock/route, I can move away from rock shoes and towards approach, then trail runners for whatever route I'm doing. When you do a few dozen laps of a formation, you can really tune the exact route you prefer and have a good sense of what your footwear can accomplish. 

I say all this as you'll see people scramble with what seems pretty subpar shoes, but what you don't see is their personal progression to get comfortable using them. That makes getting this sort of advice hard, since what's comfortable for one person, isn't for another at their current ability. Anyways, long-winded way of saying: get light, tight-fitting approach shoes to start off with, and move towards more of a trail running fit/style if/when you get more comfortable. 

I prefer to TX2 myself and I size them tighter than my trail runners.  I run in Mutants most of the time. I've done up to 5.6 routes on slab with the Cyklon - they're much more sensitive than the Mutant, but that's again routes I've got dialed and don't need that extra insurance of getting myself back on route while navigating perhaps harder terrain. I wrote a bunch about this last year. I'd add that bit about the Cyklon being a really nice, soft, sensitive trail runner compared to the Mutant, and that I'd love to try the TX Guide Leather, as it fits my foot fine, and my run well - about as well as the TX3, bit could be a better edging shoe.

Stay safe out there.

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825
Long Ranger wrote:

Depending on the mission, I oftentimes carry my approach shoes with me and start out the day with running shoes on. 

As I get more familiar with the rock/route, I can move away from rock shoes and towards approach, then trail runners for whatever route I'm doing. When you do a few dozen laps of a formation, you can really tune the exact route you prefer and have a good sense of what your footwear can accomplish. 

I say all this as you'll see people scramble with what seems pretty subpar shoes, but what you don't see is their personal progression to get comfortable using them. That makes getting this sort of advice hard, since what's comfortable for one person, isn't for another at their current ability. Anyways, long-winded way of saying: get light, tight-fitting approach shoes to start off with, and move towards more of a trail running fit/style if/when you get more comfortable. 

I prefer to TX2 myself and I size them tighter than my trail runners.  I run in Mutants most of the time. I've done up to 5.6 routes on slab with the Cyklon - they're much more sensitive than the Mutant, but that's again routes I've got dialed and don't need that extra insurance of getting myself back on route while navigating perhaps harder terrain. I wrote a bunch about this last year. I'd add that bit about the Cyklon being a really nice, soft, sensitive trail runner compared to the Mutant, and that I'd love to try the TX Guide Leather, as it fits my foot fine, and my run well - about as well as the TX3, bit could be a better edging shoe.

Stay safe out there.

+1 for TX2. Resoled the front half of the outsole  with real climbing rubber which significantly increases security on less featured slab. Lightweight, flexible breathable shoe. Decent cushioning. Unbeatable IMO

Matt Gowie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

Good stuff folks -- Thanks for the indepth answers and links to what I should have easily searched against!

Seems like this is a "everyone finds something different that works for them, but these 3-6 pairs of shoes are the frontrunners" type of discussion. I already have a pair of TX2s and since I'm only talking about 5 or so miles... I'll give them a go for this as my first test. They're great approach shoes -- Will just need to see if they fit me well for running.  

Again, thanks all!

falling monkey · · The West · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

Most common shoe you see is TX3, great warm weather shoe. TX4 same but leather for cold days. If you are currently soloing in rock shoes I would advise against getting running shoes. Stick with any approach shoe with sticky rubber.

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

The new 2021 SCARPA rapid is a running shoe with a legit climbing rubber front sole, fantastic for the flatties.

Ed VanDutch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

The wise folks at La Sportiva here in Boulder said it this way:

Are you a runner who climbs/scrambles?
>> then get the Mutants. 


or are you a climber who runs a little to scramble?
>> then get the TX guides/3/4 (read: your fav approach  shoe)

Ed VanDutch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

The wise folks at La Sportiva here in Boulder said it this way:

Are you a runner who climbs/scrambles?
>> then get the Mutants. 


or are you a climber who runs a little to scramble?
>> then get the TX guides/3/4 (read: your fav approach  shoe)

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

For what it‘s worth, I much prefer both scrambling and running in TX2s to the TX3s or TX4s.  I had to go up a half size in the TX2s to make them bearable to run in, but it’s still not as nice as having two separate pairs of shoes, one for trail running and one for scrambling.  

If you have a running vest or small climbing pack to hold the second pair of shoes tightly against your back, my recommendation would be to use two different pairs of shoes.

Doug Haller · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2005 · Points: 601

Just got a pair of the Scarpa Rapids GTX. They feel great on approaches.  They look like a running shoe in comparison to some of my other approach shoes. I do not plan to run in them but they feel and look like they would perform well for that use.

I have wide feet and my right is about 1/2 size bigger than my left.

My first impression is that the Rapids run narrow across the width of the foot. I picked up a pair that were a little bigger than I would like and they are still tight.

I resolved the issue by replacing the footbed with a 3/4 length footbed. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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