Quad vs Masterpoint anchor

Wanted to know what anchor system out of the two is better recommended for doing lots of single pitch sport climbs and of course top roping. I understand each has its purpose and I get that but, I just wanted to see if one is preferred more than another? 

Also, how about using non-lockers for clipping the hangers for anchor set up? I am only referring to clipping the anchors and not clipping the rope. I understand that using non-lockers is supposed to be safe but, is it recommended for being top roped all day? Or would it be wiser to use lockers?

Lastly, do both of these topics work the same with multi-pitch sport? Or is there an exception to one or the other?

Just do two quickdraws opposed from each other. Essentially only beginners who don’t know any better use other anchors for single pitch sport climbing. If you’re going to use them all day, you can get the Edelrid Bulletproof draws to save the rope end quickdraws from wear. Nothing needs to be a locker.

But if you don’t do that, either of those anchors is fine. For multi-pitch, I prefer a masterpoint because you get a shelf and a masterpoint, which offers one more belay option than a quad. Sometimes belaying off of a shelf instead of a masterpoint is more comfortable. This is a slight preference, try both and see what you prefer.

Two opposed quickdraws is not a good anchor for multipitch because it doesn’t offer an easy way to go in-direct or belay.

Edit: For either the quad or masterpoint anchor as a top rope setup, only the carabiner that the rope is going through needs to be a locker (1 or 2 depending on paranoia). I’ve also seen 3 nonlocking opposed ovals used by guides. Again, just use quickdraws, you’ll seem like you know what your doing if it’s just *clip clip* and “ready to lower!”

Either works. 

If the anchor is where I want the rope to run I use two quickdraws.  

If I want the masterpoint in a relatively fixed location I use single-masterpoint anchor such as a figure-eight on a bite, a girth hitch masterpoint, or a clove hitch masterpoint. This allows me to place the masterpoint to prevent the rope from running over obstacles such cracks, bulges, edges, guano, cacti etc. This is the most versatile type of anchor. 

Quads have two masterpoints. Quads often work on multiple anchors without having to be re-tied, making them ideal for rappel anchors and multi-pitch sport. The length of a Quad is not easy to adjust. The masterpoints of a Quad also move, so they are less flexible when trying to avoid obstacles. Quads are quick and bomber when appropriate. 

That makes sense. I have experience using a masterpoint anchor and draws for an anchor but I have limited experience in the field using a quad but I do know how to use/set them up. I think I will try both and form my own opinions on them. I do like the idea behind the quad for top roping because of the self equalizing characteristic of it, but then again I like the masterpoint because of the shelf space. I think my best bet for multi-pitch is a masterpoint anchor and a quad for single pitch climbs to run laps on. I will have to try both!

You don't need lockers at the hangers.

For bolted belays a 7mm quad. For gear anchors, a masterpoint. Why? The quad can just stay tied and be set up quickly. It provides plenty of space to clip things for multipitch and can be left in the ready state for sport routes. Personally I have a locker and a non-locker on the rope side so that leaders can easily clip in. Lockers to the bolts but that's just because those biners have been used for that forever and aren't going back to holding a rope in case they've been gouged. Non-lockers would be fine.

IMO masterpoints are easier for 3 piece anchors where the leg lengths from the anchor are different every setup so you're retying it anyway. For single pitch sport I usually just bring the quad so the rope runs parallel to the wall and is more likely to hang past edges. Quickdraws tend to orient the rope perpendicular to the wall. It's not a big deal but it is still extra wear and tear on the rope and it's easier for a newer follower to anchor into a quad for cleaning.

Neither is preferred over the other, both are great anchors. So is just using two quickdraws. I will use lockers on the rope side if the anchor is out of sight or if it's being used more than once or twice.

Non lockers bolt side are fine.

I have used two draws on multi pitch before and it was fine, idk what people are talking about. I just closed into a locker and clipped both draws, then also clipped my belay device to both lockers.

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• Trick question, it depends partly on what you're doing, partly on what you like, and partly on what you're familiar with, and also
• a Tacoma is better than all three 

Personally, I drive a GMC Yukon and I forgot what point I'm making here 

It's all situational. If the anchor is out of sight, for peace of mind with new people, will be top roping all day, or I need to extend the anchor due to rope drag, I'll use locking quick draws (lockers on a sling). If I can see the anchors, they are in a good spot and only a few runs on top rope, I'll use 2 normal draws. I'll use a quad on multi pitch since I can just leave it pre-tied and takes 2 seconds to setup. Never used it for single pitch/top roping.

I also understand that a quad anchor does not have a shelf to be able to be used. Right?

Diego B wrote:

I also understand that a quad anchor does not have a shelf to be able to be used. Right?

No, it does not. Instead it has two “masterpoints” that will exist at roughly the same height. There are 4 strands, so you can clip one locker to two for belaying and one locker to the other two to clove into to go in direct in a multipitch situation. in single pitch climbing you would just clip your locker(s) to two strands and use that to TR off of.

Alright, got it. Thank you. 

Do you guys prefer making quads from cord or slings? 

Diego B wrote:

Do you guys prefer making quads from cord or slings? 

Either is fine. Some people are sketched by dyneema quads, though. Cord is usually bulkier, but it partly depends on your diameter choice—nylon is pretty bulky too.

Dyneema all day. I don't even own any cordelette

Lots of good replies. Here are my preferences:

Me and a buddy single pitch sport climbing: 2 quickdraws on the anchor. If the draws lay poorly against the rock, I'll attach the quad instead. 

Course top roping: Lockers everywhere, tie with masterpoint. 

Multipitch bolted anchors: Usually a quad with non lockers on the bolts. 2 large lockers for cloving in and belaying. Normally use a dyneema 240cm sling instead of cord.

Two draws is fine in most situations. Minor downsides to doing it this way:

- Consumes two draws that you might want to use on another climb if you are in larger party with multiple ropes but only one rack or leader

- Sometimes the bolts are far apart or positioned in a way that the draws don't align, or the rope biners land on an edge

If you are going to do any significant amount of TRing it makes sense to buy and carry some custom anchor gear. A couple of ordinary slings with biners - basically an alpine draw - will work on any bolted anchor you will encounter. If the bolt position is funky you can adjust the length by extending one of the slings and not the other, etc. Use a locker on one of them for the rope end because, although very unlikely to open, the rope biners can shift position in odd ways... so why not? Lockers on the bolts don't add any value because even in the incredibly unlikely situation one would open, it won't come off and will still be strong enough for TR loads in the open position.

Or just use a quad.