Best/worst Headlamps

I have had a handful of Petzl Tikkas/Tikkinas years that I use almost daily. I have been pretty happy with them, but I have lost a couple recently to corrosion/water intrusion. Is a waterproof headlamp worth it (BD Storm maybe)? What headlamp have you liked? Should I just consider a headlamp an expendable item and not worry about it? Any headlamps to avoid?

I'm not convinced that climbing companies have any particular expertise in headlamps.

I'm a fan of Zebralight headlamps (I like the H600Fc).  They're light, waterproof, and much brighter than most headlamps you'll find. Since they're using 18650s instead of AA/AAAs, they should also have a much longer battery life.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116526271/headlamps-for-alpine-climbing-2019?page=7#ForumMessage-120877987

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118017539/best-headlamp-2019

Armytek wizard pro. Thank me later. Same deal as what Matt said, the 18650 battery format will give you a MUCH brighter, longer lasting light and be rechargable. The AAA battery lights are so outdated now it's crazy 

I regularly get comments about how I appear to have a sun on my head as I pass people on the descent trail on after work sessions. Also bright enough to use as a floodlight for single pitch climbing.

I am happy with my Fenix flashlights.  Most of them have an aluminum body instead of plastic.

Nightcore NU25 

Super light, inexpensive, long life, rechargeable, maybe kind of dim for any specific night objectives 

I have a couple Fenix HM50r headlamps and they satisfy my inner geek: well made, useful features, simple.  Rechargeable via USB and I can still swap the battery with something readily available.

I’m a big fan of the Petzl Actik Core. USB rechargeable, easy to use. Red light to retain night vision, plus white.

After my previous experiences, I would completely avoid Black Diamond headlamps! Total junk.

I use Zebralights and I love them; I highly recommend them for both caving and climbing. I recommend getting a spot light (make sure to look up the naming convention because there are many different Zebralights that are slightly different but the spot/flood distinction is important). I am never going back to shitty little fragile headlamps from climbing companies like BD. Climbing companies just don't know how to make good headlamps.

I have heard good things about Armytek and Fenix headlamps altho I haven't used them myself.

Erik J wrote:

I regularly get comments about how I appear to have a sun on my head as I pass people on the descent trail on after work sessions. Also bright enough to use as a floodlight for single pitch climbing.

Those may not be positive comments, FYI

Matt N wrote:

Those may not be positive comments, FYI

Yes, I get very annoyed by people who destroy my night vision using bright white light and are unaware, when I am easily able to see the trail. I only use headlamps when it’s too dark to make my way. I prefer to keep my night vision intact when I can.

I wouldn’t mind if they would use red lights that don’t affect one’s night vision.

Gavin Lewis wrote:

I have had a handful of Petzl Tikkas/Tikkinas years that I use almost daily. I have been pretty happy with them, but I have lost a couple recently to corrosion/water intrusion. Is a waterproof headlamp worth it (BD Storm maybe)? What headlamp have you liked? Should I just consider a headlamp an expendable item and not worry about it? Any headlamps to avoid?

If you are using a headlamp daily, maybe you don't care too much about weight? I bought a 3-pack from Costco for a great price. I leave one each in my car, in my partner's car, and in my apartment. It's not to be taken on my outings because it's bulky and heavy, but it works great for off-trail uses. And in its specs, it states, "The Broadview Headlamp is one of the only truly Waterproof Headlamps on the market today, with a lab tested rating of IPX8.  This means you don’t have to worry about the Broadview working in bad weather or even when it falls into the water."

Mei pronounced as May wrote:

If you are using a headlamp daily, maybe you don't care too much about weight? I bought a 3-pack from Costco for a great price. I leave one each in my car, in my partner's car, and in my apartment. It's not to be taken on my outings because it's bulky and heavy, but it works great for off-trail uses. And in its specs, it states, "The Broadview Headlamp is one of the only truly Waterproof Headlamps on the market today, with a lab tested rating of IPX8.  This means you don’t have to worry about the Broadview working in bad weather or even when it falls into the water."

I did the same, use the Costco ones way more than my Petzl headlamp.   Cheap enough, reliable and bright.  I also use Princeton Tec headlamps, I have a small one that fits easily into my chalk bag pocket, I’ve had it there for well over 5 years and it always works and weighs next to nothing.   

Another vote for zebra lights.  I've used them for years and never had any issues.  They're waterproof, compact, no annoying battery packs, extremely bright, last forever, and they're reasonably priced for what they are.  For caving I would have one spot and one flood (since you want multiple lights anyway).  If you do a lot of night climbing it might be a good idea for that as well.

Buy from companies that make a living of selling flashlight: I got a bunch from Princeton tech and they makes really decent stuff (I use mine for ice climbing, hunting in the rain and car mechanic) , surefire and streamlight also makes decent stuff too. 

I have owned 3 different Black Diamond headlamps that broke on me.  Faulty wiring or switch.  Won't buy another one.  Their quality control is lacking.  

I've had good luck with Petzl headlamps, also Zebra.  

The Petzl NAO+ is my choice for alpine climbing.  Good battery life and the self adjusting brightness means I'm not needing to mess with it at all when I'm climbing.  

Zebra is my choice for an emergency use or camping light.  

I've been using headlamps for climbing since 1977. Been thru them all, including the latest $100 BD light with 4 AA cells. 

I'm really charmed by this one, Fenix HM61R 1200 Lumen:

Fenix

There are some great reviews out there on it. My wife has the lighter version, but that lighter one doesn't have the magnetic charger and red light. My favorite function is the lockout. Instead of the 'blinky blue' thing on a BD light, you just unscrew the metal cap 190 degrees....so simple. And it's half the weight of a 4 AA light.

I'm done with BD and Petzl lights. Too much overdone circuitry and button trickery. 

I did break the plastic forehead mounting piece, but it's easily replaced with a strip of leather: