MKT Sup-R-Stud

Anyone looked into MKT Fastening Sup-R-Stud anchors?  They come in 316 stainless, and seem fairly price-competitive, but perhaps a bit on the weak side.

https://www.mktfastening.com/sites/default/files/content/downloadable-files/design_loads_srs.pdf - Spec Sheet

The 3/8 definitely don't meet the UIAA 25kn shear, 15kn tension requirements... Seems like the Powers studs are still a much better option? 

Those numbers are "design loads", not "ultimate loads". The chart doesn't indicate the safety factor, which should be 4.0 or greater. 

Here are a couple of sample charts from another manufacturer which show the difference between "allowable load" and "ultimate load" :

https://anchors.aerosmithfastening.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/aerosmith-wedge-anchor-304-performance-data.pdf

See notes 1. and 2. below the charts.

bmdhacks wrote:

Anyone looked into MKT Fastening Sup-R-Stud anchors?  They come in 316 stainless, and seem fairly price-competitive, but perhaps a bit on the weak side.

I’ve used a few for concrete work, and removed a couple hundred from a local crag. They are ok ish for hard stone, though the expansion collar seems stiffer than others, and the smaller collar size means Sup-R-Studs won’t reliably reach torque in softer stone. A pro, they are pretty easy to replace. The angle on the expansion cone seems a little steeper than most wedge anchors and groves nicely when spun.

Nathan P wrote:

https://www.mktfastening.com/sites/default/files/content/downloadable-files/design_loads_srs.pdf - Spec Sheet

The 3/8 definitely don't meet the UIAA 25kn shear, 15kn tension requirements... Seems like the Powers studs are still a much better option? 

They used to easily (and probably still do), I used them about 15 years ago and then they were one of the higher quality bolts available but they were too expensive to buy-in for resale. MKT is a German company.

They make various models, some with shorter clips than others, the BZ series have the normal length, the B series shorter. Also they make HCR anchors.

Their filling washer is a cool idea though nothing for climbing I guess.

This is what you want 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007W2OWRG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Yeah, that's a good deal. I guess I got worked up by all the UIAA chatter about 316 > 304 and considered taking a strength hit to have better steel. What's been your experience in really wet places like Index with aging 304 bolts?

bmdhacks wrote:

Yeah, that's a good deal. I guess I got worked up by all the UIAA chatter about 316 > 304 and considered taking a strength hit to have better steel. What's been your experience in really wet places like Index with aging 304 bolts?

I live on Vancouver Island and most of the crags are near (within say 3 km) but not right on the coast. We get LOTS of rain. We have literally thousands of 3/8” x 3.5” 304 SS Hilti KB3’s that were installed at local crags in the early 90’s that are still in excellent shape, not a trace of corrosion. 

bmdhacks wrote:

Yeah, that's a good deal. I guess I got worked up by all the UIAA chatter about 316 > 304 and considered taking a strength hit to have better steel. What's been your experience in really wet places like Index with aging 304 bolts?

My sense is that 316 vs 304 is splitting hairs. I do like the newer hangers from fixie which are all 316 and that is the extent of my experience placing that grade of stainless. I’m happy to chat a bit about hardware at Index. Just DM me :)