Camp 5mm Quick links

I’ve been installing anchors on a big alpine route and I needed to buy the lightest quick links possible.

I bought some Camp 5mm links that are rated to 25kn. They are tiny though!  How can they be that strong?

Here’s a photo with the Camp 5mm next to a Petzl 7mm.  They are both rated to 25kn.  Is it better or different steel?  Different manufacturing process?  Are they lying!??

They are just rated to 25kN because that was the requirement, not the actual strength.

The 7mm's MBS is probably more than 25kN.

Consider that the tighter bend radius over the 5mm quick-link might reduce the rope's strength.

Maybe HowNOT2 has done a slow pull test on these

From https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/carabiners/oval-quick-link-stainless/

CE certified stainless steel oval quick links for setting up rappels, equipping anchors and fixing quickdraws. The 8 mm requires a 14 mm open-end wrench. The 10 mm requires a 17 mm open-end wrench.

Note: the 5mm Quick Link is not CE certified.

Killian Penile artery wrote:

The 7mm's MBS is probably more than 25kN.

Consider that the tighter bend radius over the 5mm quick-link might reduce the rope's strength.

Yes, I think you’re right, it’s too tight for the rope end.  I’m using them to attach the chains to the bolt hanger and then I’m going to use bigger links on the rope end.

Killian Penile artery wrote:

The 7mm's MBS is probably more than 25kN.

Consider that the tighter bend radius over the 5mm quick-link might reduce the rope's strength.

5 mm, like the radius used in the UIAA climbing rope test?  How does it compare to a carabiner?

These are just for rappelling, right?

Joseph Brody wrote:

5 mm, like the radius used in the UIAA climbing rope test?  How does it compare to a carabiner?

These are just for rappelling, right?

You have trouble with radius and diameter, right?

Jim Titt wrote:

You have trouble with radius and diameter, right?

yes   

Jeff G wrote:

Yes, I think you’re right, it’s too tight for the rope end.  I’m using them to attach the chains to the bolt hanger and then I’m going to use bigger links on the rope end.

Make sure you double check a chain link can even fit in them! The gate opening is only 6mm… 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7rg20Fy4cc&t=0s

7mm and other links all break way over 25Kn (even in crossload)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XnoiopBkYQ

aluminum quicklinks are also super good enough

Ryan has mentioned before but im not sure where that the quicklinks are breaking super high, but after 10-15Kn, none of them will be unscrew-able

someone else can do math on the tensile strength of 5mm stainless steel x2 for being in a loop

Jeff G wrote:

Yes, I think you’re right, it’s too tight for the rope end.  I’m using them to attach the chains to the bolt hanger and then I’m going to use bigger links on the rope end.

You said you are using these "on a big alpine route" - so why have the weight and annoyance of using chains? Why not just use hanger+quicklink+carabiner (sticky old wiregate, oval, etc)? It makes rapping easier and faster, and if you've lead the pitch you don't need to have any leftover gear to clip in to both bolts. If you think people will steal them, zip tie each biner to each QL.

PSA - Don't steal single carabiners on fixed anchors

Jeff G wrote:

Yes, I think you’re right, it’s too tight for the rope end.  I’m using them to attach the chains to the bolt hanger and then I’m going to use bigger links on the rope end.

I totally agree with you

blakeherrington wrote:

You said you are using these "on a big alpine route" - so why have the weight and annoyance of using chains? Why not just use hanger+quicklink+carabiner (sticky old wiregate, oval, etc)? It makes rapping easier and faster, and if you've lead the pitch you don't need to have any leftover gear to clip in to both bolts. If you think people will steal them, zip tie each biner to each QL.

PSA - Don't steal single carabiners on fixed anchors

I was going to use a small section of chain so the angle of pull on the bolts is better.  But maybe that's overkill.  I have tons of old carabiners with slings on the anchors right now so maybe I can just do as you said and call it good.

Jeff G wrote:

I’ve been installing anchors on a big alpine route and I needed to buy the lightest quick links possible.

The only reason the weight difference would matter would be because you were installing too many anchors.

Jim Titt wrote:

They are just rated to 25kN because that was the requirement, not the actual strength.

For reference, in another thread Jim pulled a loop of 304SS that was only 2mm and I think tack welded and got 8.34kN.