any devices made FOR top rope solo?

Are there/have there been any purpose made top rope solo devices? If there was, would you buy it? 

I like the versatility of my two microtrax setup, but when I think about how much they get used for anything but TRS, it makes me think that I'd rather have a device built specifically for that.  

abandon moderation wrote:

Rock Exotica Silent Partner. Discontinued. I guess they couldn't sell enough of them.

A supposed run of a set amount, like several hundred, is rumored to be in the works, if the demand is high enough.

In terms of climbing up on TRS, ascenders/progress capture pulleys are very nearly purpose-built because their use in a TRS system closely resembles intended use. Of course, these devices are not great for then descending, and switching over to another device is often necessary. There are some devices built to feed rope smoothly like an ascender and arrest falls but also have the ability to descend (Taz LOV2/LOV3 are good examples). I've never used one myself, but they do look pretty nifty and seem to get glowing reviews around here.

I guess the Camp Goblin is, though technically it's a fall arrester for rope access work with an ascender mode. 

CAMP Goblin

Also, btw, the silent partner is really designed for LEAD rope solo

Matthew Jaggers wrote:

A supposed run of a set amount, like several hundred, is rumored to be in the works, if the demand is high enough.

Are you referring to the guy on MP organizing a run of Soloists? I would like to buy either, but if there is going to be a run of Silent partners, LET ME KNOW.

J C wrote:

Are you referring to the guy on MP organizing a run of Soloists? I would like to buy either, but if there is going to be a run of Silent partners, LET ME KNOW.

I suspect he was thinking about that Soloist re-production effort. I'm not aware of any talk about another run of SPs.

For the record - yes, SPs are for solo LEAD belay. Soloist too; the convoluted rope path effectively precludes easy rope feeding, at least compared with every ascender out there that folks use for TR self belay.(Someone once told me you can thread the rope through the Soloist in a non-standard way that makes it feed better for TR; I'm not going to go there when the ascenders work so well.)

Are the people with the Taz LOV using it as their only device or still with a micro back up or something? I’ve heard really good things about that device.

J C wrote:

Are you referring to the guy on MP organizing a run of Soloists? I would like to buy either, but if there is going to be a run of Silent partners, LET ME KNOW.

There was a post in the facebook group gauging interest. RE said they needed a minimum order of 300, I think the FB poll topped out at 150 last time I looked.

The TAZ lov2 & 3 are also fall arresters designed more or less for top rope soloing.

Mx Amie wrote:

The TAZ lov2 & 3 are also fall arresters designed more or less for top rope soloing.

If they weren't so dang expensive I would have one for sure.

Bryan wrote:

Are the people with the Taz LOV using it as their only device or still with a micro back up or something? I’ve heard really good things about that device.

Backup knot, microtrax, or rollnlock: sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/…

Petzl gives you instructions for using ascenders for TR solo so they are specifically designed for it. You probably meant exclusively for it. 

Glowering wrote:

Petzl gives you instructions for using ascenders for TR solo so they are specifically designed for it. You probably meant exclusively for it. 

It is commendable that Petzl publishes high quality articles, including info about TRS. However, if you read their articles, you will find that they do not recommend TRS with their equipment, but acknowledge that people do use it for that. Actually, referring to TRS, they blatantly say "Petzl has not developed a device for this activity". Quoted from the following link:

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope?ActivityName=rock-climbing

Glowering wrote:

Petzl gives you instructions for using ascenders for TR solo so they are specifically designed for it.

Be careful with that assumption! I've read all the EN certifications stamped on many devices and there is no EN test for TRS, officially. Reality though is different. Take the ubiquitous Micro Traxion as an example. What is a Traxion officially? Petzl's marketing states it's a "progress capture pulley", period. It pops up in many of Petzl's tech tips. It can be used for top belay, rescue, hauling, or as a device in TRS,... Petzl submitted their Traxion for EN 567 testing, which it passed. What does that mean? Some peace of mind, in a way, but the tests carried out are not for any specific task and no dynamic testing was done. Petzl's tech tips are presented as mere risk assessments, as things you should consider if you choose to use their devices in a certain way. No matter, because the true sign of a device's pedigree comes form it's use within the community, the positive feedback and the lack of reported accidents using it. Put all available elements together, that is: Petzl's Tech Tips, the "buy-my-course"-guy's youtube videos, the EN testing, all the positive feedback in forums from experienced climbers, and we know the Traxion is as good as it gets with a near perfect balance between safety, portability and convenience, while still not being made for that purpose.

Take then the Edelrid Eddy. It has a spate of EN certification, but is notoriously difficult to for soloing (LRS).

I own a Taz Lov2 and had Taz Lov3 for a short period. I always back it up with a Traxion underneath, but I had used the Lov2 alone (knots underneath). I have tested the Lov2 to see if I could get it to fail, on roofs, slabs, sideways. It locks every time, but sometimes travelled further, situationally. A Traxion underneath a Lov2 acts as a backup, but also a brake hand limiting the slack available to the Lov2 thereby keeping falls consistently short. If the Traxion engages too, its pulley make it easy to roll-off the tension using the slack rope. The disengage the Traxion and rappel on the Lov2. I now only use the Lov2 with a Traxion underneath with a single anti-decking knot about 3-5 from the ground.
Regarding the EN testing for the Lov2/3 devices: no other single device, I know of, combines so many different tests in one. It's a fall-arresting, ascender, descender, progress-cature and belay device, which can be installed on a tension line. That covers every task you will need while TRS. More. I feel the Taz Lov2 and Traxion are the best pairing for almost everything. I like to be able to get down quickly should something go wrong. Again, the Lov2 does more than a TRSoloer could wish for, while still not actually being designed for that purpose. YMMV. 

Mnt File wrote:

I took petzl adding a little hole on the micro traxion to thread my hair elastic through to secure to my chest harness so it stays upright while I top rope solo in it to be rather an endorsement of the practice, no?

That hole is for a keeper chord for pairing with a Petzl Sm'd carabiner, also with hole. I basket hitch the attachment hole with a small elastic loop, then clip it to an elasticated neck band. Are others attaching through the keeper chord hole? Through the dog bone? The keeper chord holes seems convenient, but would it hold up to a partial inverted fall?

Just posting this here as it seems to be the most recent discussion on TR Solo devices. 

I saw this pop up on my IG yesterday.  Looks like another option coming for TR Solo from CAMP, though not what it is designed for.  Can't really find enough information to be sure that it is suitable, but something to keep an eye out for.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CViIGtmJ6iH/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVhydqjIMZt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Gunkiemike wrote:

I suspect he was thinking about that Soloist re-production effort. I'm not aware of any talk about another run of SPs.

For the record - yes, SPs are for solo LEAD belay. Soloist too; the convoluted rope path effectively precludes easy rope feeding, at least compared with every ascender out there that folks use for TR self belay.(Someone once told me you can thread the rope through the Soloist in a non-standard way that makes it feed better for TR; I'm not going to go there when the ascenders work so well.)

Sorry if this is a bit off topic of the original question.

There was a discussion a few months ago in the lead solo facebook group about this. Someone was proposing a largeish order of silent partners straight to rock exotica. Also someone else commented with a screenshot of a 2019(?) email with a RE employee responding that they would most likely produce a one time batch for orders larger than 300 units or so.

However the conversation hasn't been active for a couple of months. Also most likely RE wouldn't be the one gathering up the money. Instead the money would have to be crowdfunded in advance by a private party.

Camp TurboLock

It seems it can be closed while clipped but not opened.
The cam be fixed open for rappels or for pulley only. The catch, to lock open the cam, seems to be well protected against accidental opening.
It looks really robust, all metal?
Due to its size, the cam shouldn't stick out much with a rope loaded?

This won't be light or cheap, but I really want to try one.

I see that the Camp Turbolock is available to pre-order. It's not cheap, light or small. It does look robust, can be opened/loaded/unloaded without unclipping, has a well protected and lockable cam. I can see this being useful in a TRS setup, provided it runs smoothly. It would pair well with a Traxion, but at the price, it may not become popular. Some pics. and specs.:

WEIGHT: 7oz

DIAMETER: 8-13mm

Looks big, heavy, and expensive. I'll stick with the microtraxion.

I think people get too hung up on whether a device is designed and officially approved for a use. They also get hung up on hypothetical failure modes that can only be produced in a lab. To me, all that matters is real world performance. If there is a system that is widely used with a safe track record, pay attention to that. If there are reports of a failure mode happening in the real world, you better pay attention to that also.

The two-microtraxion system is at this point likely the most widely used TR solo system out there, and I have yet to hear a single accident report of this system failing for TR solo on rock. This adds up to extensive real world testing with a safe track record. What more can you ask for?

JCM wrote:

The two-microtraxion system is at this point likely the most widely used TR solo system out there, and I have yet to hear a single accident report of this system failing for TR solo on rock. This adds up to extensive real world testing with a safe track record. What more can you ask for?

I use two Micro Traxions or a Taz Lov2 combined with a Micro Traxion. All tried and tested. No accident reports.
It's nice to look at new gear all the same and the Turbolock is attractive. I'd hoped it would be smaller and lighter. 

But JCM, we want NEW TOYS!!! Especially if they are really heavy! 

https://www.rocknrescue.com/product/camp-turbolock/

Luke